Originally Posted by brad-t
Both the positive and negative reviews of Saint Laurent boil down to the same thing: Hedi stuck to what he was good at. Yamamoto gets the same criticism levied at him constantly. Why do we want designers to constantly change their vision every season? Can you really be a fan of a designer who does ninety degree turns every six months?
I've only glanced over the shows, but having a consistent vision is not the same as releasing the same collection, or having no interesting way of sharing said vision. There are more complex themes than "black and drapey" even within yohji collections, let alone across them.
The collection to me looks exactly like a fusing of slutty rocker and ysl aristocracy. Exactly what you'd expect. Nothing wrong with the clothes, just not particularly inspiring.
If he's going to theme it exactly as we'd expect, I'd hope he at least had an interesting way of showing that theme.
This just looks to me like anyone at home could say "I'm going to wear my YSL pieces with a bit of Hedi" and pick items from their wardrobe. There's basically no point in having it on the runway.
Originally Posted by sipang Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The thing is, for better or for worse Hedi's vision and background have become fashion's vision and background over the last decade or so (tough luck), and since that vision was always pretty superficial you can only spread it so much before it starts to feel really repetitive and cliché. When you combine this with the recycling of YSL boho chic elements, you get a collection that smells like a museum before it's even hit the floor. I'm all for refinement but this ain't it. Also don't think it's fair to throw Yohji in the discussion, context is way different anyway.
Somewhere, Pilati is laughing up his sleeve.
On the other hand I never gave a fuck about DH and Hedi so ...
maybe I would've if I was interested in fashion back then, but this is the way I feel.