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Random fashion thoughts - Page 4304

post #64546 of 99123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bam!ChairDance View Post

^^ Oh, ok. That explains why Marc told me that blake stitching= easier repairs. This has been an enlightening conversation, my brotha!
Also, FWIW, my Hares are blake stitched. But thanks to Mr. Bonwelt, that gets to be my little secret.
edit:
Fun exercise time! For all you people lurking this conversation, take a look at your Italian-made shoes that happen to have welts. Look inside the shoe. Is there stitching on the insole? Then they're actually blake stitched and that welt is a big fat phony. I know Moma does this. I'm sure maany others do as well. Looking forward to your findings.

Not necessarily.

There's a difference between Blake and Blake-Rapid, that I think you're missing.

blake:


blake-rapid:


So blake rapid doesn't technically have a welt, it has a midsole. This can look like a welt. It's a midsole though. Performs the same function - enables easy resoling. Moma to me looks like blake rapid. Many Paul Smith are Blake rapid.

Here's goodyear with the welt. Can you spot the problem with this diagram though?

See how the welt is stitched through the upper to a fat rib that is carved from the insole? That's actually what handwelted construction looks like. In goodyear welting this rib is actually the thin piece of canvas that is glued to the insole. Also, goodyear welted shoes don't (necessarily) have an midsole.

Almost all manufacturers display pictures like this when in reality the canvas rib is very thin and is glued to the insole, not part of the insole itself.
Edited by hendrix - 9/25/12 at 1:52am
post #64547 of 99123
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post

looks like basic cotton tees start at $95.00 USD

Where is said place in the bay area? I shall investigate.
post #64548 of 99123
Blake Rapid Shoe Construction


Should look like this on your shoes:


Click on the photo to see the line seperating the midsole from the outsole.
post #64549 of 99123
Sorry to interrupt this welt talk but LTE on my ip5 is fast as fuck I can now browse sf while on a ciggy break.
post #64550 of 99123
dude, you already fucking said this.. I have an Iphone 5 and i'm not really that impressed with it.. then again, I already had LTE before.. .. biggest complaint is no haptic.

Random fashion though.
post #64551 of 99123
Love browsing the forums on my ip5 shit is fast as fuck.
post #64552 of 99123
^Same on my iPad. I was at a conference all last week, and there was no wifi (OK, it was an old stone cottage, but WTF?). Everyone kept asking me how I "got the internet on it".

I'm all of a sudden feeling very wasteful, thinking I need to upgrade from 4S to 5.
post #64553 of 99123
Unless you really, really need LTE, that sounds like a big waste. I went from the 3GS to the 5 and it feels fucking revelatory, though.
post #64554 of 99123
Goodyear Welted Shoes
cross section diagram (most ones on the internet lie and don't show the canvas rib, instead they show a handwelted holdfast). I had to make my own one. The canvas rib in red. The welt is in grey.


If we took a cross section of inside a goodyear welted shoe, we'd see something like this:


You don't see stitching inside the insole because there is no stitch that runs through it.


the welt runs around the outside of the shoe and the outsole is stitched to it.

Edited by hendrix - 9/25/12 at 12:35am
post #64555 of 99123
Quote:
Originally Posted by brad-t View Post

Unless you really, really need LTE, that sounds like a big waste. I went from the 3GS to the 5 and it feels fucking revelatory, though.
I don't really need it. I know what you mean- I went from 3G to 4S.

The iPad is so much better for watching movies, too. I watched Bourne Ultimatum on the plane today, and it only used 5% of the battery.
post #64556 of 99123
i agree with trixiebell
post #64557 of 99123
and finally, Handwelted Shoes



Important to note that, unlike with Goodyear welted shoes, the welt and upper are stitched directly to the insole. The holdfast is part of the insole, and is not a strip of canvas that is glued to the insole.

it's hard to draw a complete diagram, but carving the holdfast into the insole looks something like this:


Before the outsole is sewn on, but after the upper and welt have been stitched to the holdfast, it looks like this:

The welt running around the outside is stitched through the upper directly to that ridge, the holdfast of the insole.

Of course, once the outsole is sewn on, it's almost impossible to tell if the shoe is Goodyear or Handwelted, since there is no stitch that travels all the way through the insole in either construction.

However, handwelting the shoe - when you force an awl through the holdfast to make the holes - creates little dimples on the top surface of the insole, like this:


This is the big clue that tells you that the shoe is handwelted, not goodyear welted.

However, some makers will have a full sock liner, so you can't directly see the insole. In that case the only way of knowing for sure is to take off the sole and look.

I picked this all up from browsing MC. There's a lot of info there if you can wade through the trash.
post #64558 of 99123

I vibram boots like MMM, not ones with good construction.  Hendrix what is your opinion?

post #64559 of 99123
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

Isn't easier to just skip that whole process and Vibram the sole?  Assuming you don't let it get that worn down in the first place.



Some people just like the feel of leather soles.

The other thing is that it's a little strange to buy expensive welted shoes because they're easily resoleable and then seal them off so you never have to change the sole.

That said, I topy about half my shoes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smashwindow View Post

I vibram boots like MMM, not ones with good construction. Hendrix what is your opinion?

Yeah, I topy my ones that aren't constructed so well. My handwelted ones, I feel more confident that they won't need major repairs when I resole them so it's fine to leave them un topied.

Also work makes me topy my shoes because it's some idiotic health and safety policy.
post #64560 of 99123
Anyway the point is to not let anyone tell you that your Italian cemented or Blake shoes are shit because they're really not fundamentally different from goodyear welted shoes.
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