Random fashion thoughts - Page 4206

 

From a technical standpoint, these features do make a difference. From a design point, not so much, but when you're using these things for what they were designed for little things likes water proof zippers make a sure difference. I guess it all depends on how you view "technical outerwear"

By design I mean that waterproof zippers and microseams can contribute to a sorta minimalist, techy feel.

I've had a few gore-tex parkas, including some army issue ones. None of them had waterproof zippers and they weren't necessary because most parkas have a placket and stud buttons.

Any additional fabric (i.e. a placket) is going to make things heavier, and arguably more cumbersome. To me, that is the sole "technical" benefit of waterproof zippers and microseams - it reduces bulk. Same can be said for laminated pockets and laser cutting.

These are all relatively minor engineering feats. Since the development of Gore-tex as a waterproof-breathable fabric 40 years ago (and probably not the first waterproof-breathable as Grenfell and Ventile existed long before but are somewhat non-technical), I just can't see much real, revolutionary technical innovation, as much as it likes to be talked up.

Any soldier or tramper will tell you that good kit is nice to have, but you're still going to get hot/cold/wet. Wow, you're made a parka more lightweight? Seems like a pretty obvious thing to do doesn't it? Equivalent to packing a titanium spork instead of a knife, fork and a spoon perhaps. A little overhyped perhaps.

The design is where the real innovation is. Vehicular release zips, hidden pockets, foldable jackets, earbud pockets etc. Add to that a sort-of urban ninja aesthetic and that's where your dollar goes.

Hendrix that's not trivial at all man.  My raincoat is a cheap one from EMS that was $90 I think, it folds up to about the size of a softball.  Considering my pack isn't that big and sometimes has to hold a ton of stuff, reducing that bulk to the size of a cell phone instead (by removing plackets, seams, etc) would be fantastic, especially if you compound that for everything you're carrying.  

 

I'm usually doing just light stuff, but if you're alpining up the side of a mountain or something, every ounce of weight matters a lot.  I think you're not really thinking in terms of what some of that gear is intended for.

true.

just from a performance basis is what I mean. Hmmm, I do wonder about getting one of those super compressible outer shells.

Thing is, the gore-tex of today has evolved since the 70s. There's a bunch of different types on the market right now; Pro Shell, Paclite (which sucks a big one, but its light), and even recently they put out a new fabric called Active. I haven't tried it yet but its supposed to be a great deal lighter. 

 

Speaking of light, I totally understand snaps and a placket will do it for you, but that's just to heavy. Like KingJulien said, every ounce counts. I personally don't trust a placket and velcro, so water proof zips is something I look for. Also, I don't really like those super light jackets. I spose they're good to have in case you get stuck, but my experience has been abysmal. I had a golite jacket that got ripped to shreds and I have a TNF paclite shell that feels like its going to disintegrate. But to each his own.

 

I do have to agree with you that design is where the innovation is going. Fabrics have kinda peaked for the moment imo, so cool features are what attract me. If you have a look at some of Arc'teryx's main line, design is there biggest feat. Their designs are simplistic but pack so much functionality. Pretty much everything is designed to work with a harness, a pack, or ski gear. Shit fits awesome as well (TNF you suck at this).

 

If you really wanna see some of their cool stuff, look at their packs. My Altra is some next level shit, wouldn't trade it for any other pack.

browsed around Barney's today and saw some great pieces like a fresh looking green plaid wool bomber jacket from Dries. It's really nice and warm and different from all the depressing black outerwear from other designers. The wool sweaters with the dinosaur and whale intarsia from Jil were pretty cool too and retails for $600. I hope they still have my size when it goes on sale. I'm seeing many guys wearing hats in the streets lately and there's a lot of really neat styles from Mr Kim. The one I particularly liked was a burgundy wool baseball cap. Some stuff that I didn't care for we're the Comme Shirt pieces with the Star Wars screen print of characters and messages. They look really cheap. A pair of black cotton pants with Yoda and it says " you have a lot to learn" for $500, yikes! Junya is really becoming redundant. His pieces look like what he made the past seasons.

All of the gore-tex fabrics, pro shell, paclite etc etc as far as I can tell, are just thinner/heavier or multiple layers. The "new" Active fabric technique of laminating the layers together was pioneered year and years ago, by both Gore and other companies. It's not new, it just has a new name.

I agree the lightweight stuff feels very delicate and has ripped on some of my jackets.

I need to get a new pack, still stuck with 60s style equipment in that regard.

cos official lookbooks for autumn winter 2012

 

http://www.cosstores.com/Fashion/Campaign

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

really nice still. anyone know why hm wont open cos stores international?

indeed, and i don't know. they recently opened store in hong kong or something, so maybe someday!

Edited by ExAngel - 8/24/12 at 1:51pm

this is the only gore-tex you will ever need

I think the reason why Cos hasn't expanded that much outside of Europe is due to the fact that the minimalism which Cos is so good at copying really isn't popular enough to warrant an expansion at this time. Here in Germany I get the feeling that no one is even aware of Cos and that even if they were, it isn't a style that is at all "popular".

Yeah, I think they'd have to pour a bunch of money into marketing if they decide to expand. ITs not fast fashion and it's not high end, either.

Edited by ExAngel - 8/24/12 at 1:50pm