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Random fashion thoughts - Page 3994  

post #59896 of 109053
Originally Posted by BreezyBirch View Post

why is individual sentiments such a rippppp

Breezy, surprised you didn't pick up that Sasquatch modern ninja cardi.
post #59897 of 109053
that fuzzy blue one from last year sometime? if that's the one you're talking, the sleeves were super short
post #59898 of 109053
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post
This is pretty cool and mc/swd friendly. He's going to wear it with a toj 4zip. You can go even more casual with a derby as Parker said. There is still an edge to the look and should be banker appropriate smile.gif
I REALLY like those and have seen that photo before...I really like Church's and C&J at the moment.
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Toasty - I would stay away from wholecuts personally. After having bought many of them and having seen them collect dust in my closet, I came to the conclusion that even if they look awesome on pictures, they rarely look so on the foot and in context, and they are just not very appropriate for business situations. Only whole cut I would ever recommend would be black for someone who refuses to wear patent or silly bow pumps for black tie events.
Black captoes are a must - but the last has to be elegant, whether you like chiseled or round toe, avoid a toe thats too bulbous or too elongated. Oxfords only, absolutely no black bluchers for MC purposes. I personally prefer a punched captoe but plain is fine too, more conservative.
I feel that a dark brown brogue is a must if you wear greys, blues and earthy colors in MC mode. I'd stay away from medium browns and cognac, harder to wear and better for the 15th pair of shoe... Derbies acceptable there but I still favor oxfords.
In suede though, I'd stay away from chocolate and go with snuff / mid-brown instead, better match for the informality of the suede and for the type of outfits I feel one should be wearing suede with (sport coats rather than suits). I like wingtips and monks for suede.
I like the idea of a biz casual MC shoe with mitteleuropa influence - I'd go with a split toe or Norwegian in pebble grain for example. Definitely derbies there, no casual oxfords.
All of the above is very subjective of course.

The chiseled toe has won me over after seeing a new acquaintance sporting a pair tonight. Looked pretty damn good and going to ask him what he was wearing this weekend during our basketball games redface.gif

Thank you big time for the run down. I know about the captoe, which is why I am making it a priority at the moment. I would like to look elegant during formal/informal outings and be less dressed up during normal office hours. I prefer a nice clean black derby for everyday wear. Not sure if any of you have considered the AE Leeds model but to me that looks pretty good. Suggestions for an even sleeker vamp without sacrificing shoe width? I am on the fence between D/E width.

And you are correct regarding the suede. For example, this is a pretty nice color combination for suede IMO but it fits like .5 size too big UGH Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I cannot believe these are not gone yet..
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

Toasty why can't your wardrobes overlap?  Unless you work in the most conservative of workplaces many SW&D brands are perfectly acceptable - I had to go to the corp HQ the other day and wore Helmut Lang pants with horse hair shoes and didn't feel like I stood out in any way.  Dries, margiela, etc are all pretty office appropriate.

If you like MC then that's great but it sounds more like you feel you have to dress that way? It's just my impression though, I could be misinterpreting.

I am choosing to have two different wardrobes. It is sort of fun to me and I like to keep my SW&D away from the office. Even though I probably dress the most conservative in my office and the environment is really relaxed, I like to stay polished too (whatever the fuck that means). In a nut shell, I am trying to follow the norms but twist it in a way that I find a happy medium within myself. So you are partially correct that I feel like I have to dress that way. And Dries Margiela et al are all office appropriate but again, if I am going to incorporate SW&D brands I rather go more aggressive (Think SZ Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
hi jet
). To me it is the principle, you have this for this and that for that, which is quite contrarian to the norm here in SW&D where I feel like anything goes if you can make it coherent and cohesive as a whole. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

This is my banker. It can be done.
Cool. Something like this but perhaps cleaner without all the looseness and different shoes. I can probably dress like this without getting TOO much harassment in the office. What it look like with the jacket off hmmmm? wink.gif
Originally Posted by Master Milano View Post

in case anyone didn't know the diff between bluchers and oxfords. cause i didn't ! foo.gif
The difference is how the laces are connected to the vamp. The Vamp is main front portion of the shoe. On a Blucher the laces are placed directly on top of the vamp. On an Oxford the vamp covers the laces creating a throat line. (Here is a great diagraphm of the anatomy of an Oxford). By having the vamp cover the laces and the creation of a throat line, the Oxford has a more finished and polished look.
Also, toasty this is a trap, you will never be able to look at shoes the same again!

I don't get it?? Great information though as I did not quite know the difference either.

RFT: I never understood what happened with the MC and SW&D comparison. There is actually a lot to learn from both sides. Good job to LA Guy teacha.gif
post #59899 of 109053
Forum B&S is so dead frown.gif
post #59900 of 109053
Just wait till after the sales season... many regrettable kops to be had.
post #59901 of 109053
B&S has been terrible for quite a while now to be honest Not sure what causes it, maybe the new forum design? Recession? More and more people only buying deeply discounted stuff in sales (thus B&S prices no longer that attractive)?
post #59902 of 109053
I feel like gettoasty is going to end up looking like a yakuza out of a cyberpunk novel.

You might want to look at beige shirts. Beige is a staple of gothninja pieces and it has the added benefit of washing you out and making you look a bit pale-er. Maybe add boiled leather accents (idk where those would even fit in)? Def go burnished copper for your belt buckle/tie clip/cufflinks (if appropriate)

I also think black captoes, unshined and a little worn in/creased, would straddle the two aesthetics nicely.

They're moving my office and relaxing the dress code. Time to care about denim again biggrin.gif
post #59903 of 109053
Originally Posted by Lane View Post

the black/monochrome stigma has a bad rap here because people attribute it with all things goth at times. Plus, for some reason people associate black with aggressiveness and gloomyness when it could be just as relaxed and chill as your lame ass sperrys.

WRT shoes I don't think black is goth aggressive or gloomy, just boring. WRT clothes I find it difficult to match, prob b/c my clothes are mostly blue/olive/tan.
post #59904 of 109053

This might be old newz to some of you but I didn't know this:




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



I'll try to make the following as simple as possible but it can be hard to explain without using the terminology for weavers. But here we go:
Satin is just simply a weave structure-- meaning, it's just a specific way to weave. There are three very basic weaving structures that (most) all other weaving is based upon. Those three are: plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. (I'll get to satin in a minute)
Plain weave is really basic. Every culture on earth that has weaving has plain weave in there somewhere. [1] This picture  shows basic plain weave.
The fibers running up and down are called the warp. The fibers running from left to right are the weft (think weft rhymes with left).
As you can see in the picture, the weft (left to right fiber) goes over one fiber then under one fiber over and over again. And each row alternates so no fiber is always jumped over or slid under. You don't want to leave anyone out. See that? That's what locks those loose fibers together into one sheet of fabric. Without them locking together like that, all you'd have is [2] this  and that's not fabric.
The second weave style, twill, is very similar to plain weave. The only difference is that instead of the fibers going over one, under one, it kind of jumps. So, it can look like [3] this  or [4] this . These are both very basic twills. In the first one, the white weft jumps over two fibers then slides under two fibers. In the second one, the darker weft jumps over two fibers then goes under one fiber. But they're both twills.
Twill fabrics are generally stretchier than plain weave 'cause the fibers can move around a bit without pulling out or falling apart. They're flexible where plain weave is very sturdy and doesn't like to move at all. Twill fabrics have to be careful, though 'cause if the weft tries to jump too far, the fabric can become weak. Those weft fibers can snag easily if they're too long. And that can make the fabric fall apart, which isn't good at all.
Now, the third main type of weaving is the satin weave, which is like a brother to a twill but is more daring. Satin jumps over four or more fibers, goes under one, then does it again. It looks like [5] this . See how the blue weft jumps over many threads there? That's what makes satin a satin.
Satin is shiny because there are so many fibers floating and the light is reflected more evenly from them. It also helps that modern satin is made from shiny fibers like rayon and silk. Often, the weft fiber will be a shinier fiber than the warp so the shininess is more obvious, but it's the way the fibers are woven that make it a satin; not the fiber types.
You could make a satin-weave scarf out of wool. It would be shinier than a twill-weave scarf but it wouldn't be as shiny as a silk satin.
Which brings us to the difference between satin and sateen. Satin, as I said above, is a weave structure like twill and plain weave. Sateen, though, is just a satin fabric made from cotton (or some other short staple fiber). Generally, cotton sateen is made when the weft goes over four fibers and under one fiber as anything longer than that and the cotton makes it weak. Cotton is not as strong a fiber as wool or silk.
Satin is wonderfully shiny and slippery but it is not as durable as plain weave or twill. Even when made of silk (the strongest fiber), the jumping weft means it lacks stability.
If you have any further questions about weaving-related things or if any of the above terms weren't clear enough, please let me know.
Source: I'm a weave structures and print pattern textile designer and a weaver myself. I focus on twill-variants, damask, brocade, and shadow weave. I also have a very strong love for pictorial tapestry weaving.
edit: For a little more non EILI5 info: there are literally hundreds of variations of pretty much everything you can weave, even plain weave. I picked two twill examples but there are many others and twill alone has many sub-categories of weaving styles. Like random walk, corkscrew, shadow weave, and a bunch of others. Satin, too, can jump more than four warp, so there's a lot of variation there as well. These three types of weaves can be combined to make damask, brocade, and overshot, to name a few. The above is just the most basic I can make it.






post #59905 of 109053
Dolce & Gabbana makes some of the most flattering suits out there for "normal" sized and muscular guys. Strong shoulders, waist suppression that is made possible because of the slightly longer skirt than is often found these days. Valentino is another brand that does a nice job. These brands would probably suit a lot of guys sized 38R and above than many of the brands we talk about here. #brandsthatarenotpopularontheforum
post #59906 of 109053
Take a Dolce suit to a good tailor if you want to hear him laugh.

It happened to me.
post #59907 of 109053
Originally Posted by crackerjack View Post

B&S has been terrible for quite a while now to be honest Not sure what causes it, maybe the new forum design? Recession? More and more people only buying deeply discounted stuff in sales (thus B&S prices no longer that attractive)?
its the same on other sites too, I cant sell my goods
post #59908 of 109053
Anyone have any success getting shoulder pads reduced? My plebe interview suit has a "normal" amount of padding which makes me look like a linebacker/frankenstein.
post #59909 of 109053
Originally Posted by Lane View Post

its the same on other sites too, I cant sell my goods

took me like 6 months to sell a pair of petit standards. last time i sold a pair in way worse condition they went in like two weeks.

shit done changed. and of course, it changed right as i gained 20 pounds.
post #59910 of 109053
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

This might be old newz to some of you but I didn't know this:

Do you have a link to the original? Sounds like there are pictures in there and I'd kinda like to take a look.

Back to that black v. color talk, I like color but I do like black a lot. I think it looks really clean and is very simple in a way. That's why I like it anyway.
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