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Random fashion thoughts - Page 391

post #5851 of 98836
do you know what kind of leather you want in terms of moto, rider, high collar, bomber, cadet, etc... or just feeling everything out? I'd like a nice leather as well. Always on the look out for reasonably priced mmm black riders 2nd hand or weird sale or something like that
post #5852 of 98836
I really like the design of the TOJ rider and bomber (would maybe do a few alterations to each, but nothing major), but IMO margiela leather finishing is really a notch above what the others offer. I have tried on rick and geller before and have been happy with the fit
post #5853 of 98836
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post
so, I think it's finally time to buy a leather jacket

atm I've narrowed my options down to:

mmm rider off yoox / ebay / sale
used rick
used geller cadet
toj

i really didnt like the geller cadet... made in korea, thin leather, seemed like something i could get at zara
post #5854 of 98836
Quote:
Originally Posted by chronoaug View Post
do you know what kind of leather you want in terms of moto, rider, high collar, bomber, cadet, etc... or just feeling everything out? I'd like a nice leather as well. Always on the look out for reasonably priced mmm black riders 2nd hand or weird sale or something like that
I definitely want to go with either a classic bomber, rider, or maybe a rip on the famous 4 design I will not be getting anything belted or double breasted I'm still getting the money together, so we'll see. I desperately need to grab some more knits and my search for a good pair of chinos continues, so those take priority.. we'll see how gilt final sale goes tomorrow
post #5855 of 98836
I keep an eye out for margiela 5 zips in my size and I'll bite on one eventually Keen for TOJ too. Black lamb bomber with shearling is so nice, and grey rider would be awesome.
post #5856 of 98836
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post
I really like the design of the TOJ rider and bomber (would maybe do a few alterations to each, but nothing major), but IMO margiela leather finishing is really a notch above what the others offer.
TOJ washed lamb is perfection, imo. Believe the hype.
post #5857 of 98836
mmm rider is awesome but then again I'm happy with my jacket and how toj is run overall
post #5858 of 98836
I love my MMM for the design and the fit (on me) and because it's a bit of a historic grail item and mine is extremely broken in and looks cool, but it is NOT anywhere near the level of quality of the TOJ, and that is not shilling. I can make a TOJ leather jacket at the quality level of the MMM for something like $350, but I don't want to, I want to make something better. I also wore winqs Julius FW06 leather quite a bit and I've had a number of other nice leathers in the past, and the Julius is the only jacket I feel competes with TOJ on quality/materials. It is pretty easy to tell why just upon first glance; -the leather on my MMM is about B-grade cowhide. Yes, it looks great now, but I can tell it wasn't anything special to begin with and it's 10 years of patina that make it lood good. It's dyed well; struck-through black with what I think might be separate blue and yellow dying probably; I see them fade to greenish brown, alothough mine hasn't faded. The leather being thin just means it has gone through more splits and given up more flesh, ie produced more (cheap) suede, leather is always a two in one thing nowadays where the hair side give gives the leather and the flesh side is skivved away to produce all the cheap suede on the market. -The leather edges are all cut on the MMM. Around the zippers, behind the placket, everywhere. This is pretty low quality. I get my sewers to fold and sew just about every seam possible (sometimes with thick calf it's not possible to fold 4 layers of that and sew them) and the pockets get separate trim flashings as well, all labor labor intensive. Total number of pieces of leather cut to make MMM 5-zip = 15, including lining Total number of pieces of leather cut to make TOJ Moto = 25 (?) or so, the DR takes something like 35 pieces. That is not because they are cutting pieces of leather down to maximize hides and 'piece' stuff together, the size of the main panels that are taken from the hide hearts are still just the same. -MMM lining = black cotton and cupro sleeves, the lining is disentegrating on mine. TOJ lining = striated cupro, from Japan. Industry standard. - My leathers: New Zealand or French A plus grade lambskin, or a special cowhide reserved for motorcycle jackets. Both cost roughly the same; I'd honestly pin the MMM's leather at 2/3rds the price materials wise, Rick Owens at less than half, most anything else less than half. -vintage MMM 5-zips have MRS zippers, which are good and make the style of the jacket; new models since a few years ago have had YKK's with bar pulls, the same exact zippers I use. Anyway, the point I wanted to make wasn't to shill my leathers beacuse they are what they are, but I think the term 'quality' gets thrown around a lot, and when it comes to leather jackets that carry huge markups and premiums, I think there is a lot of truth to be told. The same goes for suits, etc, but leather jackets are traditionally known to be extremely expensive, but materials and labor wise they are not any more expensive than a medium-cheap suit. I have seen a few leather jackets that I feel really jumped out at me materials and quality wise; Quai de Valmy had a leather moto recently that had the same rich lambskin that I use, but that jacket was unlined, and fit a bit weird. It was about 600 Euro on sale from Colette and normally about 2-3000, it's 3000 locally here. RLPL and PRL have had some nice feeling leather jackets, but they don't work unless you're 60. My original intention was to actually bring the feel and make of a RLPL leather I saw many years ago, into a modern design.
post #5859 of 98836
Quote:
Originally Posted by ppllzz View Post
i really didnt like the geller cadet... made in korea, thin leather, seemed like something i could get at zara
I picked up a geller cadet like 6 months ago, seriously got the thing for like $350 super deal of a lifetime, you can get them off sufu for like $500-600 some times. Anyways I love the jacket, especially for what I payed for it, the lambskin is super super soft and supple, has a great fit too. I got one in black, size 52, fits very slim but just large enough to fit a layer underneath (shirt/sweater), im like 6'1 so geller's fits work well for me. Nothing wrong with korean production, he actually does a lot of his leathers out of there apparently. Probably not worth the $1400 they rang up for at retail originally but I think they are a great pickup 2nd hand.
post #5860 of 98836
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
leather wisdom
Schooled
post #5861 of 98836
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oxnard View Post
I picked up a geller cadet like 6 months ago, seriously got the thing for like $350 super deal of a lifetime, you can get them off sufu for like $500-600 some times. Anyways I love the jacket, especially for what I payed for it, the lambskin is super super soft and supple, has a great fit too. I got one in black, size 52, fits very slim but just large enough to fit a layer underneath (shirt/sweater), im like 6'1 so geller's fits work well for me. Nothing wrong with korean production, he actually does a lot of his leathers out of there apparently. Probably not worth the $1400 they rang up for at retail originally but I think they are a great pickup 2nd hand.
i mean, after what dis said above, i would much, much, much rather pay an extra 200 and get his jacket. just looking at pictures of the two you should be able to see the stark difference in leather quality, and if his jackets are even 75% as good as he is claiming they are, i think the leather would be better than the geller i mean the thing looks like a wrinkly thin shirt jacket with epaulets and 3 pockets! and it is thinnnn i couldnt believe it was FW when i got it
post #5862 of 98836
Most of Geller's lambskins are like that, I think it is just how they are treated, with the wrinkles. It gets creased and lived in very quickly. Honestly the thing isn't really any thinner than any of the other lambskin jackets that I have had/tried on, though from the sound of it Dismal's lambskin is comparatively thick. The lamb on that Geller definitely isn't any thinner than the lamb on my Rick jacket, lambskin jackets in general tend to be thinner than comparable calfskin jackets, from what I have experienced anyway.
post #5863 of 98836
I notice well dressed guys way more than well dressed girls. thanks sf
post #5864 of 98836
There is something wrong when your local high end luxury store sends out coupons for you to cut out and bring in.
post #5865 of 98836
only poor people own scissors
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