"When the great couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his Paris house, in 1968, and retired, he complained that it had been a dog’s life. But at least Balenciaga was free to design what he wanted, and to show his clothes when and to whom he pleased. Today, the most celebrated designers work for big luxury groups — Nicolas Ghesquiere for the PPR-owned Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, which belongs to LVMH, as do Céline and Givenchy. Last summer, when Dior’s former star John Galliano went before a Paris court on a charge of anti-Semitism stemming from a drunken rant, he attributed his behavior in part to work pressures. Not only do designers produce more stuff than ever before — clothes for early deliveries, for red carpet and editorial, as well as accessories — but they are also increasingly perceived as less important than brands."
And this from Stefano Pilati:
"Do you think fashion is misunderstood because the people who create it speak a different creative language from those who consume and analyse it?
When people enter our store they imagine cashmeres, silk cravats, shirts in crepe de chine, crocodile shoes. Obviously, we make them, but it’s like hitting myself in the balls. I have 800 cashmere coats and 900 silk cravats. My point is, your work can’t just be a selfish journey. You’re working for a brand, not your brand. You have to adapt. I like to let myself go with some ideas, but you have to have the rest of the company on board with you and deal with those dickheads who are only businessmen – the ones who ruined fashion, people who move from Danone to YSL like it’s the most natural transition in the world."