Random fashion thoughts - Page 3515

Originally Posted by Lane 

man im glad I bought this stuff on my own, i'd feel even dirtier if my parents foot the bill. I think being restricted money wise helps your style because you wear your clothes more and shit. I know I have lots of jackets and footwear already, but I wonder how much use people on SZ really get from 90% of their clothing, since I see grails pop up years later barely worn. I see some of the closet pics and its like 30 shoes and 20 jackets, lol. I am jealous but at the same time its like, yah I have all this shit but I cant really enjoy all of it at the same time. At the same time I'm fine with constantly flipping shit because it makes things fresh but at the same time I like to idealize being able to find a jacket you could live in for a long time.
one example:
I really anxiously wait for people to post cool outfits, cuz it RARELY happens...on all forums. However, this dude who I find is one of the best out there style wise seems to have not worn a lot of shit whatsoever. The mollino is a grail of mine, and im surprised its like new after all these years. Its quite surprising..lol. I mean shit, look at the fucking ann d shirt, should be faded as fuck, not that intact? or am I underestimating the mileage you can actually get with designer stuff with careful use?
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/132643-fs-bais-rare-rick-owens-ann-d-damir-doma-number-n-pieces/page__p__2677558#entry2677558
I was considering buying it and selling my blistered scuba but then I stopped myself cuz I want to enjoy what I already love, this may be better but I enjoy my shit already so much.
also, random note...did hide-san leave Sharpservicejapan? I feel like hes absent, I dont get the same convos with him and I dont see any email signed his name

How "structured" a shoulder has no direct relation to how it "looks" specifically on a static jacket. A heavily padded/shoulder can look "natural" or square...when the man isn't moving.
A completely unstructured, upadded shoulder can also look "natural" or square...based on, guess what? what the actual shoulder underneath is.
A man with a healthy, natural drop, with even and slightly sloped shoulders, can wear pretty much anything. A man who is a beanpole (or a pineapple) can be tailored to look approximately the same when completely still. The minute that heavily augmented man moves, however, and goes about the business of the day, those shoulders will look like ping pong tables on either side of his neck, rocking to and fro, queasily independent of his body.
The subterfuge, then, is up. It is obvious to the world that you have no game: instead, you have padding, like a padded bra or pants with the ass foam inserts (cue Barry Manilow reference.)
A particularly humorous account of this phenomena is given unconsciously by Reevolving in his sports bar thread, in which he regales us on the reaction of a woman when he puts his elbows up on the back of a bar stool.
Am I biased and exaggerating? Of course. I do so to make my point clear.
Now, getting back to Spoo for a second, many of you seemed to have daydreamed up a concept of his physique which contradicts his own description of his height and weight. He is slim, even skinny. He is not at an athletic weight (strong like LA Guy), although being slim is great for the sport of wearing tailored clothes. Many of his jackets swim at the shoulders, are constricted in the chest, and are too tight at the waist. The human torso is not naturally a round cylinder; so too with Spoo. He's well-shouldered, thin waisted, but also somewhat wide-hipped (bones, not the 5cm pizza problem.) That is what you are seeing revealed in the jacket from yesterday.
If you square out his shoulders to balance the hips, you have succeeded in one dimension and in a static pose. Your success, however, compromises everything else. If you bring in the middle at the side seams to exaggerate this effect further, then the jacket will not be (or will be less often) fluid on the torso when buttoned. It will "stick" like a lifesaver around your belly.
Instead, if you take the basic form of yesterday's jacket, widen the lapels toward the notch, lower the gorge, shorten the jacket, and cut open the fronts more, you would probably accomplish everything needed to balance shoulders-to-hips while still retaining the fluidity of the jacket. You've all seen this kind of cut before because it is all over the Internet in the form of the Liverano stuff that Cho and Crew carry (or facilliate when it is bespoke) and from several other makers like NSM, etc.
As for your last point about purposefully misfitting things to make it more "interesting," I really have no reaction to that point of view since it implies nothing can be wrong or right. If that really really is the belief system that has captured this thread and the Mens Clothing forum in general, then no wonder some of us feel alienated from it.