That doesn't really apply here...it's not like it's "Mr. Porter for J. Crew", is it? If you went to the Four Seasons and they had a Big Mac on the menu, and when you ordered it they went to McDonald's and brought you back a Big Mac, I think that would be closer to what Mr. Porter's doing.
he could be commenting about the part dealing with staying at hotels with "culture". Four Seasons and ordering a burger which in itself is a cultural food. Know what, I don't know.