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Random fashion thoughts - Page 7000  

post #104986 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by OccultaVexillum View Post

Anybody got recs for a thick knit cream/ecru sweater? Open to pretty much any kind of weave, fabric or neck but I guess I'd prefer just a rib knit crewneck.
Could you handle bull's wool?
post #104987 of 109053
Ha I have no idea. How's it compare to other wools? Is it a piece you guys stock?
post #104988 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abraxis View Post

I think you misconstrue where I'm coming from ;p I personally have no problem making my own deductions and I'm not indecisive at all when it comes to making purchases that I'm thrilled with.

I'd just love to talk about them without triggering a dieworkwear rant about quality conflation. This has happened to me a few times and it'd be nice to avoid them because I get where he's coming from. It was pretty clear after the first instance.

But I'm not sure what the best route for navigating his issue is since I'm never going to acquire the level of knowledge necessary to meet his requirements. I can throw out my qualifier and see if that works, but if there's another route... maybe use another phrase in lieu of "quality" then I'm open to it.

Maybe he isn't even speaking to me but just making a public service announcement. I guess if that's his aim then I'll just weather the storm when it comes.

the thing that always makes me crazy about discussions of quality is that people will treat their personal opinion like it's an objective take on whether something is good or not. you hear a lot of "the quality wasn't there" when what's really going on is the person didn't personally like the fabric or something like that. Sometimes the opinion is right and the quality really isn't there. But you rarely hear anyone provide evidence that goes beyond their personal preference about the thing in question. This conflation isn't a huge deal for most of us but to someone really trying to get info on a product it can be a little misleading.

edit: not saying you do this, by the way. just a general observation
Edited by pickpackpockpuck - 1/30/15 at 6:47am
post #104989 of 109053
FYI Rick Owens has upped the quality of certain pieces (think shoes and even jeans) and this comes from the guy managing said quality improvement at RO. I know another RO employee proudly wears a lot of Ironheart and tells me he wishes RO was made that well. I guess that is telling of the state of fashion's price to quality ratio versus Japanese denimhead brands or Cabourn or what have you. I still maintain some Engineered Garments pieces I have have some of the cleanest interior finishing I have seen. On the other hand suiting is surprisingly well-done at fashion brands like Dior or Lanvin, they're not really inferior to most "MC" brands.
post #104990 of 109053
aren't suiting at those fashion houses outsourced to places like caruso and zegna?
post #104991 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by nahneun View Post

aren't suiting at those fashion houses outsourced to places like caruso and zegna?

"outsourced"? Suiting is produced at factories, like with every fucking brand. Brioni suiting is "outsourced" to the factory that produces it. Difference being some of these Italian brands are either mills of factories first and then developped a brand. In fashion you can say something is outsourced if the whole design and production is handled by another company, for example Margiela perfume is outsourced to Loréal. Sunglasses and perfume are often outsourced.
post #104992 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by nahneun View Post

aren't suiting at those fashion houses outsourced to places like caruso and zegna?

Yes, but suit manufacturers are a lot more flexible than SF members give them credit for.

People here tend to think of quality in terms of whether or not the stitching is straight, or if there was loose thread somewhere. That defines quality to a certain extent, but a lot of suit manufacturing is technical and deals with internal components. It's stuff that a consumer either doesn't understand or can't see (eg, when he's looking at the collar, he can't tell what kind of stitching was done, and even if he could, he probably won't understand why one is better than the other. Likewise, he can't take the garment apart and look at the guts). That's the more important stuff.

Suit factories can make things according a wide range of quality levels, which is why you can't easily infer quality by just who made it.
post #104993 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Yes, but suit manufacturers are a lot more flexible than SF members give them credit for.

People here tend to think of quality in terms of whether or not the stitching is straight, or if there was loose thread somewhere. That defines quality to a certain extent, but a lot of suit manufacturing is technical and deals with internal components. It's stuff that a consumer either doesn't understand or can't see (eg, when he's looking at the collar, he can't tell what kind of stitching was done, and even if he could, he probably won't understand why one is better than the other. Likewise, he can't take the garment apart and look at the guts). That's the more important stuff.

Suit factories can make things according a wide range of quality levels, which is why you can't easily infer quality by just who made it.

 

So it's simply impossible to tell suit quality since its all hidden inside the garment

post #104994 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post


"outsourced"? Suiting is produced at factories, like with every fucking brand. Brioni suiting is "outsourced" to the factory that produces it. Difference being some of these Italian brands are either mills of factories first and then developped a brand. In fashion you can say something is outsourced if the whole design and production is handled by another company, for example Margiela perfume is outsourced to Loréal. Sunglasses and perfume are often outsourced.

There's a difference in how something is outsourced, though. In some cases only the manufacturing is outsourced, and a reliable contractor can produce a product to the brand's specifications more efficiently than they could themselves. In some cases keeping things in-house allows the brand to control quality better. In the case of sunglasses, the entire production is often outsourced, from the design to the manufacturing. In that extreme case many people rightly think they're being ripped off, since the brand that did the outsourcing adds nothing to the product besides the logo.

post #104995 of 109053
This Margaret Howell merino/cashmere knit I'm currently wearing feels awesome. 70/30 FWIW. Shoutout to whoever originally mentioned it from Mr. P final drops.
post #104996 of 109053
Anyone have suggestions for dyeing/restoring faded wool? Ribbing on a jacket has gone from black to navy.
post #104997 of 109053

yea it's probably my best value for money kop ever

post #104998 of 109053
This was a long time ago, but I think I remember someone asking about where they could get a long hoodie.



Note that the pull strings on the hood are already as long as the body length on most hoodies.

http://www.machusonline.com/products/trench-hoodie-olive
post #104999 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post

So it's simply impossible to tell suit quality since its all hidden inside the garment

No, I'm saying quality should mean something real -- how does something look and feel when worn (does the haircloth inside shape the chest in the way you want? Do the lapels roll in a way that's pleasing? Do the arms have shape? Etc.). You don't actually have to ask yourself these questions. You can just try a bunch of stuff on and buy what looks and feels best. Then after a few years of wearing it, if you still like the garment, then it was prob of good quality.

Like I said in the ToJ thread, I think people should think of clothes more as being more like food than cars. Instead of dissecting the technical things you don't understand anyway -- in an attempt to "max" out the quality levels given your budget -- you should just try the thing and say whether or not you like it. Nobody buys a dish and separates out the different ingredients, trying to see if the tomatoes, pasta, and olive oil are of good quality. They just eat it and say whether or not it tastes good.
post #105000 of 109053
And my point of view is, it would be nice if people did that, but they aren't going to. The word is going to be continuously misused because people think they know what they are talking about or they think others know what they are talking about. It's ingrained into the culture at this point.

If you can tip the point, great, I'll welcome that eventuality, but in the end it may just be tilting at windmillz.
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