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Random fashion thoughts - Page 6998  

post #104956 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

I like his work.  It's not really "out there" by any designer standards, but some of it is fairly interesting.  It would be interesting to see him work with someone like Rick Owens, who has, in the past, struggled to get his vision across in his tailored pieces.

how so?
post #104957 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

I like his work.  It's not really "out there" by any designer standards, but some of it is fairly interesting.  It would be interesting to see him work with someone like Rick Owens, who has, in the past, struggled to get his vision across in his tailored pieces.

He's mentioned in interviews that he likes Rick Owens
Quote:
What designer brands do you like?

A few years back Rick Owen’s ‘tailored’ pieces were interesting in the way that they show it is possible to play around with conventional proportions but still be very wearable. I loved the extremely close-figured body, very narrow structured shoulders and over long, tight sleeves… paired with low slung, baggy seated trousers.

Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo are amazing, the way they can take traditional techniques but deconstruct them in a critical way to make you see beauty in the unconventional. Also The Non, produces stunning clothing with lots of great tailoring and cutting techniques that I wish I knew!

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2012/12/davide-taub-style-and-the-tailor.html
post #104958 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post


how so?

Well, for example, the pagoda shoulders in that one collection (2011?).  You got the sense that he had issues communicating exactly how they should look/work.  

post #104959 of 109053
the knife blazers/coats and other very high-shouldered pagoda pieces were kinda awkward, though it's hard to know if they came out as intended. i suspect they did.

i agree with Taub's take on Rick's tailoring. i think Rick's tailored pieces are as good as the sportswearish stuff like the geobaskets and dropcrotch jersey bottoms (and personally i like the tailored pieces more because they're subtler). they offer a really interesting take on proportions, one that I think works really nicely within the design universe he's created where everything looks like it's dripping or been stretched and pulled outward. and because tailored wear tends to follow more rigid rules, his tailored stuff is more subversive in a way.
post #104960 of 109053
I've heard that Rick/BBS/Obscur have pretty mediocre tailoring. Though Rick/BBS have improved in the last few years. I feel like I can see it at times in their tailored pieces, but maybe that's just confirmation bias.

Edit: I don't know if I meant construction quality since I haven't handled said pieces in person. I mean they looked off in an unintended way. Awkwardly shaped shoulders etc. Maybe that's what folks mean when they say construction e.g. how shoulders are constructed. Usually I mean like how well its sewn/put together. Maybe my definition is wrong.
Edited by Abraxis - 1/29/15 at 12:49pm
post #104961 of 109053
i don't mean the construction quality, though in that regard i haven't found rick's any worse than most other designer labels (though maybe it should be given how expensive it is) (edit: typing too fast and doing too many things. that should say rick's should maybe be better given the price). no idea about bbs or obscur.
Edited by pickpackpockpuck - 1/29/15 at 1:20pm
post #104962 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abraxis View Post

Edit: I don't know if I meant construction quality since I haven't handled said pieces in person. I mean they looked off in an unintended way. Awkwardly shaped shoulders etc. Maybe that's what folks mean when they say construction e.g. how shoulders are constructed. Usually I mean like how well its sewn/put together. Maybe my definition is wrong.

I don't know how anyone would know this unless they were a skilled production manager or pattern maker, and took one of these garments apart, like Jeffery D does at Tutto Fatto a Mano.

This kind of gets back to this thing where I think a lot of people on this board conflate design and styling with quality.
post #104963 of 109053
Absolutely we do. But I don't think that's going to change. I'll just throw out a disclaimer that when I say quality I mean my own perception of quality which is an uninformed one and that's what I think where most of us come from.

In the absence of a truly, technically informed opinion though that's going to be what most of us operate and differentiate with.

Is that fair, or is there a better way to manage this? I mean folks are going to have these kinds of discussions about stuff they are into no matter what. It's part of the fun/human nature and no one is going to become a pattern maker and take apart all their stuff.

It's like talking about what football player is the best or whatever.
post #104964 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abraxis View Post

Absolutely we do. But I don't think that's going to change. I'll just throw out a disclaimer that when I say quality I mean my own perception of quality which is an uninformed one and that's what I think where most of us come from.

In the absence of a truly, technically informed opinion though that's going to be what most of us operate and differentiate with.

Is that fair, or is there a better way to manage this? I mean folks are going to have these kinds of discussions about stuff they are into no matter what. It's part of the fun/human nature and no one is going to become a pattern maker and take apart all their stuff.

It's like talking about what football player is the best or whatever.

Odell Beckham Jr takes the cake for 2014.
post #104965 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abraxis View Post

i think its pretty simple, people don't have exposure to it like many of the other brands (RO, m.a.+, luc, julius, attachment, carpe diem and even CCP). there's less of a secondary market, especially for the clothes -- which as LA Guy has repeatedly said -- is where most of us buy our "artisanal" shit since paying retail even at discounted euro vatless prices is tough. Doubly true for an unknown commodity you don't have any real experience with especially in terms of fit and there aren't that many folks in your size with that experience you can leverage.

There aren't even that many retail stockists to start with and their buys are usually pretty small/shallow and most don't have any kind of online presence.

Most of us don't like talking about stuff we don't have experience with. I am very interested in a lot of the clothes and it looks great and I'm glad alexandertg is picking stuff up and sharing his experiences, but there isn't that much information out there otherwise even on SZ.

pretty much this, hard to get info on brands not as exposed
post #104966 of 109053
The good thing is that you don't really need info. Trust your eyes and your touch.
post #104967 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post
 

Companies like Aero and Viberg, who started by building clothing primarily for functional use.  A motorcycle jacket is not gonna do squat if the seams fall apart while you are skidding 50 feet.  Workboot companies build footwear that is meant to be worn all day, day after day, often with bodyweight + on them.  Also, on a worksite or a fire, you are going to kick crap in the course of your day, so the welts have to be strong, etc...

 

What about out of runway or dark aesthetic/artisanal designers? I understand they have different perspectives of tailoring compared to workwear brands built for function. But I think I've been conditioned to think that the quality, rather than just the creativity of the tailoring done by certain avante-garde labels contributes, substantially, to their appeal. I've always wondered how much of the assumptions I hold about garment manufacturing is simply false, such as that hand-sewn seams mean better constructed and longer lasting as opposed to machine-sewn. None of it reaaally matters that much since people aren't wearing say their Harnden coats in the same way, and as hard, as maybe an EG coat, and as a military-issued peacoat. So while I'm not too concerned with the construction for things I don't wear a lot no matter the price, I still would like to become a discerning consumer and know how much truth there is behind the ways artisanal labels advertise themselves (sharp tailoring, exquisitely craftsmanship, attention-to-detail, etc).

 

The reason I asked about Cloak specifically was that I watched a documentary called Seamless on a contest ran by vogue several years back to help emerging labels. One of the finalists happened to be Plokhov and post-Geller Cloak. The narrative was that Plokhov was a "master-tailor," and all he wanted was the industry's recognition that he was such. I'd really like to know how he compares to, for example, the tailors on Savile Row, was Plokhov a technical master? Cuz that's what it sounded like, or was he just innovative, that's what the internet narrative portrays him as. And if bespoke/hand-made garments can't really be compared to mass-produced ones, what would be a better analogy?

post #104968 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

The good thing is that you don't really need info. Trust your eyes and your touch.

But this is the kind of thing that makes people think soft means high quality, and rough means low quality. Or that heavy means high quality, and lightweight means low quality. In reality, quality is often dependent on context -- the designer's intent, the consumer's preferences, and the type of object/ style of item we're talking about. We had a discussion about this in the ToJ thread (or rather, I went on a series of long rants), which started here.

I think quality exists, but it's just more subjective and harder to determine than people think. I also think people should just ignore quality and go for something much more simple: whether or not a garment looks and feels good when you put it on.
post #104969 of 109053
It would be nice but I don't think most people operate that way and I'm not sure they are able to. And for me anyways, part of what makes me feel good when I put it on is this personal perception of "quality"

It feels good to wear something that you think is nice. Or at least it does for me.

I think my criteria is looks awesome, feels awesome when worn, has layers of interesting details for me to appreciate and lasts for as long as I want to continue wearing it (durability) and then from there on are the less explainable intangibles. Perceptions of fabric, weight, style, design, color, overall holistic synergy, "construction" etc.
post #104970 of 109053
Every time I try to track a package on UPS.com, it redirects me to a prompt asking for a username and password. This is new since a week or two ago, when I received my last Yoox order.

I have absolutely no interest in creating an account on the UPS website. Is anyone else able to track packages without signing in?
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