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On the Street in NYC....Flusser on Thom Browne

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
The other day I asked Alan Flusser what he thought about Thom Browne. His answer at The Sartorialist http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/
post #2 of 7
Off-topic, but thanks again, Sartorialist, for all the great pictures.

Now if only there were really, really big versions somewhere... have you considered collating them all into a book on NYC style? Is that where the blog is headed?

Taken any photos of Mory lately? I like seeing his take on businesswear...
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
I don't want to jinx myself but I'm having some very interesting conversations with some very interesting people!!!!
post #4 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Flusser
“Those are the most irresponsible clothes I’ve ever seen in my 30 years in fashion.
To charge that much money for a coat that is deliberately short……the whole thing is like, childlike. I understand the sensibility; believe me I understand, it but if you want to sell a customer that, that to me is… I’m sure the allure is that is “new classics” but that is as “fashiony” as Dolce & Gabbana.”

I feel vindicated. If a guy who walks around in a bathrobe says it's irresponsible, then TB must be on to something important
post #5 of 7
Controversy = sales increase.

Now the TB cut (close, short) is cycling through the clothing culture, with RL and others. The Pierre Cardin euro cut was similarly influential in the 70s.

In 5 years many people will think, what was I thinking? Why is this so short?

The lasting influence will be the high armhole, close to the body sheath cut.

The suit, especially the suit coat has this wonderful capability to conceal/reveal. When it conceals, it is like armor. Think military coats, Dege & Skinner, etc. When it reveals, as with TB or Slimane, it is more like a condom in woven cloth, and no gut or other unaesthetic bulge can be hidden. The tailor's art has alway been in making the worst body look like the best one to the greatest extent possible, but the new sheath cut just makes it a little harder, and helps give men the image and body issues that women have long had. This is relatively new but I doubt it will go away any time soon.
post #6 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick M
Now if only there were really, really big versions somewhere... have you considered collating them all into a book on NYC style? Is that where the blog is headed?
I would second this suggestion. I love pictures in magazines, NY Times Style, etc. with real people wearing real clothes on the street. I would snap up a collection of your work in a second if you put it into book form.

A.
post #7 of 7
As much as I am utterly confused about Flusser's recent personal clothing decisions (he seems to be headed towards a Mr. Rogers look), he is dead-on about Browne. People are acting like Browne invented the close to the body look. He didn't. "Patches" on pants????? Are you kidding me? My 5 year old might need reinforcement on his pant's knees but not a grown up. The cut and look Browne is promoting is stupifying and he is kidding us if he wants us to believe that this somehow is a modern interpretation of the JFK, Rat Pack look. He has more in common with Pee Wee Herman.
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