Mr Tiger and King Kent of the 3 inch ties,
I just answered some questions over at the former gathering place for displaced Style Forumers, and thought that it might be a good idea to cross post here.
quote:Originally posted by Roger
David, these are lovely ties. I have some questions on your custom bespoke ties that I'd like to ask here, if I may. It's probably not the usual place for questions like this, but I thought that others may have the same questions. First, from your website, the construction seems to be fourfold with a wool liner. So this would be different from the fabled "double fourfold" would it? Can you do double fourfold and sevenfold ties on a bespoke basis? Second, how does the client choose the pattern with a bespoke tie. Do you have fabric samples from which to choose? If so, how extensive is the collection of fabrics? I assume that a client couldn't just say that he wanted a particular pattern with particular colors and have you able to produce that exact request. Finally do your prices vary with the client's request with respect to choice of fabric and, perhaps, construction method? If so, what is the price range. Thanks for any information you can provide. Vancouver
First off thank you very much for your questions. Just yesterday it was suggested that we really need to make a "How to order a bespoke tie page" and a comprehensive FAQ page. I agree 100%. I have saved many emails in which I answer your questions and similar ones so I will start working on a rough draft.
Meanwhile let me answer your questions:
First, the 3-fold 57 inch 3 3/34 construction is what we make ties in when we have time to make ready-made ties. These days we are busy nonstop so we are basically 100% bespoke tiemakers. So other than a very few ties we do not have any ready-made ties on hand at all. Perhaps I need to delete all mention of our "standard ties" for the sake of clarity. (All editorial suggestions greatly appreciated!)
However, we are considering making a ready-made 7-fold collection later this year. The standard length and width would be 57" long 3.75" wide with a natural shape.
We are based in Denver and our local clients all use the term "custom made" in the same sense as Ask Andy members use "bespoke" hence the use of both terms on our website.
For us bespoke means any construction that you wish as long as the silk is appropriate. Here is a link to our bespoke prices with some variables in terms of silks, constructions and sizes:http://www.mulberrywood.com/ties/cus...ktieprices.htm
Please note that we can do any length, width, shape etc. So if you see only 3 lengths in the table please use the associated prices as general guidelines. So if a given tie is $75 and you want a tie that is 2 inches longer we would roughly pro-rate the price if that makes sense.
We make multi-fold ties all the time. As bespoke tiemakers we try to listen to the needs of our clients. So lets say that you like XYZ silk and would like a 7-fold tie. We don't like to just take the order. Instead I ask you what type of knot you are looking for, is the length of your favorite tie working for you, or would you like an extra two inches or maybe a very narrow tie? Or?
We can make a classic unlined 7-fold tie like Talbotts or a lined 8-fold tie or if an in between 5 or 6-fold is called for we are happy to make one. As for a double-four outside of this forum I have never heard the term and we do not use it. I think that what we refer to as an 8-fold tie would be the same.
As for patterns we will draft one for a client based on what their needs are as discussed above. When it comes to shape we can do exactly what you want if you have a clear idea. As an example, you might have a favorite tie that you take several width measurements of at various points along the tie, and then you tell us the length and construction type.
If you prefer a general look to a tie: perhaps a "natural flow" then we will design the shape to match a feeling based on your preferred width and length.
As for swatches, we cut hundreds all the time. Swatches are good for texture and weight in addition to color. We currently have probably over two hundred silks on hand to choose from. We will probably add another 100 or so silks over the next few months. We have just started to have a "new this month" category in our store.
Like Marinella, we don't have seasonal collections. We have new silks on a monthly basis. Although I have heard that Marinella has new silks weekly. We are working on a mid-term goal of printing our own silks so at that time (In maybe 3 years) we will have new silks weekly.
And yes you can have any pattern and construction with any silk, unless the silk is not appropriate. Some silks are just too heavy to do a 7 or 8-fold with. Some silks are too light to do a standard 3-fold with. Some silks will wrinkle too much with an unilined 7-fold. Some silks are too rough to make into a tie and so on...
As for custom silk designs we have a limited ability to produce custom woven stripes and small geometric patterns cost effectively with Thai silk. We weave our custom silks in our studio in Thailand. Please note that our Thai silks are handwoven so they will be of a rougher texture than machine-woven silks. Custom English silks are possible but very expensive due to minimum 10 yard silk runs.
Our Thai silks are generally somewhat lower in cost because we weave the silks ourselves. There is a difference in cost (for us) to use different weights of English and Italian silks but we don't usually have different prices within our English and Italian silks. We do this because our business model is very labor intensive so the silk we use is a smaller percentage of our total costs compared to the average tie maker.
A last thought is that we have fun at what we do and we are perfectionists. We will get the small details correct, or redo the tie with a smile. We also have a lot of patience and are very easy going. With the exception of a few small tailors here and there bespoke tiemakers are a vanishing breed. Our family business has been around since 1886.