or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread - Page 560

post #8386 of 12335
Did we ever determine which last has a lower instep, but a classic look for something like Old English (Chelsea)?
post #8387 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Did we ever determine which last has a lower instep, but a classic look for something like Old English (Chelsea)?

I think the R last could be the candidate.  From Ascot's photo's, it looks quite sleek

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTO-Laszlo-VASS-Oxford-Budapest-Dark-Brown-Calf-R-Last-/180877597703?pt=UK_Men_s_Shoes&hash=item2a1d251c07 but Notch's looks slightly blobby.DSC_3838.jpg

 

Anyone here has any live photo of the R last?

post #8388 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post

Browsed through the Vass website and liked style #89 which is a derby boot on the New Peter. I am not familiar with this last and it looks like a nice casual last (especially compared to the F & U). For those that have the New Peter, do you find the fit tigher, like smart shoes, or more 'relaxed' like country lasts. Thanks for any input!

Looking for a last closer to C&J 325 and less Tricker's 4497. Thanks for any input!

I have two pair on the New Peter and I think it would make a good boot last. It has reasonable room in the toe without being too high and it is also nicely elongated without going too far. I'd say the fit is generally more relaxed.

Caveat is that I have no experience with either Vass F or U lasts or the C&J or Trickers lasts you mention. So I can't compare.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

I think the R last could be the candidate.  From Ascot's photo's, it looks quite sleek Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Anyone here has any live photo of the R last?

Give me maybe four weeks and I'll have some photos. I have an R last Budapester in work right now.
post #8389 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

Give me maybe four weeks and I'll have some photos. I have an R last Budapester in work right now.

Great! That's what I was thinking of, Vass' version of Sandringham.  What's your makeup?

post #8390 of 12335
I presume the R last named after Roberto Uglo,

it's toe looks flattened and shape reminds me the great white shark
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

Great! That's what I was thinking of, Vass' version of Sandringham.  What's your makeup?
post #8391 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovelobbs View Post

I presume the R last named after Roberto Uglo,

it's toe looks flattened and shape reminds me the great white shark

R is not part of the collaboration with Ugolini.
post #8392 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

Great! That's what I was thinking of, Vass' version of Sandringham.  What's your makeup?
An Oxford in antique cognac scotch grain with double sole. I'm excited about it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

R is not part of the collaboration with Ugolini.

Correct. R is part of their standard line. They show it used in particular for oxfords, but it seems you can get it with open lacing as well. I've seen the R referred as Vass's British style design.
post #8393 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

I have two pair on the New Peter and I think it would make a good boot last. It has reasonable room in the toe without being too high and it is also nicely elongated without going too far. I'd say the fit is generally more relaxed.

Thanks for that feedback. That's exactly what I'm looking at. I also saw that Tom has a wholecut on the P2 which looks really nice. It looks sleeker than Alden's Barrie which makes the P2 seem ideal for me.
post #8394 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by DpprDr View Post

Thanks for that feedback. That's exactly what I'm looking at. I also saw that Tom has a wholecut on the P2 which looks really nice. It looks sleeker than Alden's Barrie which makes the P2 seem ideal for me.

I think that the P2 is a little sleeker than the Barrie, perhaps. But I also think that the perception of the Barrie is based in large part on the fact that it almost always appears with a reverse welt. That contributes a great deal to it's apparent solidity IMO.

Hope P2 works out for you.
post #8395 of 12335
Vass lasted shoe trees are nice and all, but they trigger a security check when they go through the screener. My bag was searched at airports in Budapest, Frankfurt, and just now upon entry to the US. They'll stay home from now on. frown.gif
post #8396 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post


An Oxford in antique cognac scotch grain with double sole. I'm excited about it!
 

Sweet!  No goyser? Look forward to seeing it. Antic cognac shell would be nice too, been salivating over the crup Sandringham.

post #8397 of 12335
No Goyser. Flat welt on these. I haven't tried Goyser yet, nor have I gone with a full shell shoe from Vass. Perhaps next year...
post #8398 of 12335
Are goyser and reverse welt the same thing?
post #8399 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by barky View Post

I think the R last could be the candidate.  From Ascot's photo's, it looks quite sleek
%24%28KGrHqNHJEoE-li44ZDmBPqHC%29k%29o%21~~60_1.JPG?rt=nc
%24%28KGrHqNHJDME-mH8Uzi0BPqHCrujRw~~60_1.JPG?rt=nc
Vass is scaling up the production or lost old craftsman may be both, the heels on most of their shoes are now disproportionately gigantic.
post #8400 of 12335
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post


Well I wasn't commenting on overall finishing.  Do you imagine that anyone would dispute that overall finishing is important in a high end shoe?  I inquired as to whether there was practical benefit to 10 stitches per inch versus 7.5.  You said practical benefits aren't all that matter, aesthetics count.  Okay, so is there an aesthetic benefit to 10 stitches per inch versus 7.5?  I am guessing your answer to that is "no"?  If you had to measure your G&G bespoke to determine that there were 10-11 per inch, it's obviously not something you can just look at and see.

Just picked up on this...it strikes me that there's something of the myopic about such a perspective. It assumes that the shoemaker is a mindless drudge with no part, indeed no legitimate interest or investment, in the process of addressing the customer's every whim. And while that's fine at a certain level, unfortunately it is the guiding principle of manufacturing in general.

But there's something different going on with bespoke and those concerns that aspire to the same cachet as bespoke.

Tight stitches are a mark of craftsmanship...attention to detail and even excellence. Why? Because it not only looks neater and more finessed than long stitches but takes more time and more skill. Inasmuch as it is an indication that the maker cares about such things and takes pride...personal pride...in his work, it is also a promise that the rest of the shoe will exemplify that ethic, that pride, and that aesthetic...in places that you cannot see.

Yes, there is a diminishing return as stitch length is shortened but it's worth noting that in the heyday of English shoemaking, 18 spi was not considered too small and 64 spi (even on outsoles) was the gold standard for exhibition work. Probably the main reason that such fine work has passed out of vogue...aside from the appeal to the lowest common denominator of manufacturing...is that leather quality has declined to the point that no known leather will support much more than 30spi nevermind 50 or 64.

There is also a diminishing return of functionality as stitch length gets longer, nevermind that broad, expansive gestures are always considered a bit crude.

And yes, anyone who is really looking...and not just dismissively waving away any and all standards of absolute excellence...can immediately see the difference between 7.5 and 10 spi. I can see the difference between 10 and 11.

But again, I take pride in my work.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread