Quote:
Originally Posted by
dlind 
How would you guys say that Vass and AS Exclusivge compare quality wise? I know there will be a bias since this is a Vass thread but I have a pair of Vass that I love but at the same time the AS Exclusive Moore looks very nice... I know the major difference is gemming vs hand welted,, how much of a difference is this really? I mean G&G are gemmed and they are considered some of the best RTW shoes out there... I have to say the AS finishing is a step up from Vass, any input is appreciated.
IMO u should go with the style you think you'll wear over the longest time.
I like the thought that Vass are hand welted but that's not so important to me when I'm deciding what goes with what in the morning. The look and fit matter most. Doesn't matter that a shoe is well-constructed if u don't like the look of it.
AS handgrade are better finished,sure. They concentrate more than a hundred yrs of artisanal skill and know-how into the hand-grade line and the materials are 1st class- although skin selection can't always be consistent (there can be quite a bit of variation even within lines) the handgrade leather is as finely grained as any. I understand they pass on a lot of half-crust hides to pick the best for the HGs.
The Exclusives tho aren't
as good but the Moore is one of the nicest in the line- classic Adelaide cap-toe, not fashion-forward, not something you're going to regret later . And although that line is still well made I disagree that the finishing is superior to Vass. AS H-G, definitely, but Exclusive, no. Vass upper sewing is occasionally sloppy and flawed but the skins and finishes themselves are fine without being stellar, and they patina beautifully.
Have u considered the Vass Italian-Oxford in F over the Moore? It looks at least as good with superior construction. Just need to get the fit rite. and Btw u shouldn't have mentioned 'gemming:'
Edited by Pliny - 3/1/13 at 5:36pm