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The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread - Page 370

post #5536 of 13118

You beat me to it with the subject change - yours is better!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood View Post

Recently delivered oiled green calf Alt Wien on the New Peter last, single leather sole.


Only issue I see right now is a roll in the leather on the instep right below the lacing area. I think you can see it in the photo below. Not sure what this means. Perhaps that my instep is a little high for the New Peter. Thoughts?

 
 

 

I've had a similar thing on a heavy derby from another maker.  I think it's just while the thick sole isn't flexing much and it pushes your foot up and forward as you walk.  I don't think it will go away, but I do think that once you've broken these shoes in, the laces will close more tightly over your instep and the creasing will be less.

 

Incidentally, that is a brilliantly weird colour - I like!  Congratulations.

post #5537 of 13118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenon View Post

As Isshinryu101, mentioned the welt has always been leather. The welt is what you see when looking down at your shoes and the stitches you see connect the welt to the exterior bottom sole. This welt is stitched to the shoe upper and to either a holdfast which is integral to the inner sole or to a canvas rib which is glue to the inner sole. The holdfast is like a damn that is carved into the sole leather and can only ever be done properly by hand. In contrast in the original goodyear method (machine method) devised to save time and effort, the inner sole was scored vertically and horizontally near the edge such that a flap of leather could be raised perpindicular to the plane of the sole andto which the upper and welt would be stitched. Unfortuneately sole leather is stiff enoughthat the scoring had to be deep and this left very little substance connecting the leather flap to the sole. Infact tearing in this area was frequent and too try to correct this situation it became common practice to glue a canvas tape rienforcing the leather flap were the bending was most severe. It was just a smallstep from this to realize that you could do away woth the thicker leather inner sole and scoring and simply rely 100 percent on the glued tape whichyou would turn up thus becoming a rib (gemming). As suchyou are now relying on a glued connection which is in fact very similar in location to typical cement construction. This glue will often fail simply due to moisture from rain and perspiration, however keep in mind that with cement construction there usually is a wider glue joint vs the common thinner gemming and thus gemming is prone to quicker failure.

If however you never wear your shoes in rain or snow and have very dry feet (perspire very little and usually have dryed cracked skin) then there is a high probability the the gemming will never fail (nor would the cement constructed shoe). If on the other hand you perspire alot then gemming is a virtual guarantee and this in more or less time.

Thank you, for the technically detailed explaination. This is 'The Right Stuff' in my view. A rational and well informed explanation.

I wonder why moisture causes gemming to fail? There are plenty of adhesives out there that are completely unaffected by water. Perhaps it has to do with the way the leather reacts to the moisture?

I have a pair of Sperrys that are glued construction to a rubber sole and they get wet all the time - the shoes are pushing thirty years old and only very recently has the upper started to separate from the sole. A little contact cement seems to have the problem under control for now.
post #5538 of 13118
Thanks and appreciate the input. This is my trial pair of Vass, so my plan is to wear them and see how it goes. Very happy that the size is in the ballpark and eliminates any concern about selling or returning them.

The color is interesting, isn't it? In the past year I have gone from zero to two green shoes. I feel it is a wearable color for me.
post #5539 of 13118
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

This thread is becoming shoe nerd sex.  I am enjoying it.

But probably better get the subject back to Vass before the sound of worldwide facepalming becomes too deafening.

Question: my feet are a little curved, and wide across the forefoot.  I don't have a particularly high instep, but do find some oxfords tight over the ball of my foot.  Anyway, do any of you Vass mega-customers have any suggestions on Vass lasts?  

Shoe nerd sex! Me likey!

We do need to get back to Vass specifics however.
post #5540 of 13118
Don't know about the crease but 45 seems too big for a US11D
post #5541 of 13118
I agree. I had prepared myself for them to be noticeably too big, but the really do seem to fit well from the heel through the ball of the foot.

The shoes themselves are not marked with a size, but the trees I bought are marked 45.

Almost sure a half size down would be too narrow, and I believe Mr. Kuti said that they couldn't do 44.5 wide. Not sure of the reason.

We'll see how they wear. I'll post some more photos here so someone can diagnose the fit from the creasing... biggrin.gif
post #5542 of 13118
Good to know that it fits, I was just comparing to my size, I'm US8D and 40.5 fit perfect so I was guessing 43.5 or 44, but things don't always work like that.
post #5543 of 13118
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

Good to know that it fits, I was just comparing to my size, I'm US8D and 40.5 fit perfect so I was guessing 43.5 or 44, but things don't always work like that.

While I was waiting for these, I kept visiting this Wikipedia page on shoe sizing with a chart that purports to compare US and Euro sizing. This, at least, suggests that it is far from a linear relationship.
post #5544 of 13118
Oil Green is great....I have it on a 3eyelet derby. BUt yours looks different somehow...maybe there are colour differences batch to batch.
 
Mine:
 

700

 

post #5545 of 13118
A few more pics with a little bit of the morning sun. Plain toe, burgundy shell, F last.


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






post #5546 of 13118
Yeah, pictures. Thank you both for getting us back on track.
post #5547 of 13118
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

A few more pics with a little bit of the morning sun. Plain toe, burgundy shell, F last.

[/SPOILER]

Did you topy this or what did you do mate and why?
post #5548 of 13118
This is by far one of the most elegant Vass I have seen....
post #5549 of 13118
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

A few more pics with a little bit of the morning sun. Plain toe, burgundy shell, F last.


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







They are great. What model number is it? I can't seem to find this kind of plain derby on their website.
post #5550 of 13118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiddler View Post


The photos of your shoes in this color confirmed my interest in it. I bet the difference is from the lighting. Your photos are taken in outdoor light and mine indoors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

A few more pics with a little bit of the morning sun. Plain toe, burgundy shell, F last.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)









I particularly like the Goyser welt on these. A very classic PTB.
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