The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread - Page 370

Originally Posted by FrankCowperwood 

Recently delivered oiled green calf Alt Wien on the New Peter last, single leather sole.


Only issue I see right now is a roll in the leather on the instep right below the lacing area. I think you can see it in the photo below. Not sure what this means. Perhaps that my instep is a little high for the New Peter. Thoughts?

 

 

Originally Posted by Xenon 

As Isshinryu101, mentioned the welt has always been leather. The welt is what you see when looking down at your shoes and the stitches you see connect the welt to the exterior bottom sole. This welt is stitched to the shoe upper and to either a holdfast which is integral to the inner sole or to a canvas rib which is glue to the inner sole. The holdfast is like a damn that is carved into the sole leather and can only ever be done properly by hand. In contrast in the original goodyear method (machine method) devised to save time and effort, the inner sole was scored vertically and horizontally near the edge such that a flap of leather could be raised perpindicular to the plane of the sole andto which the upper and welt would be stitched. Unfortuneately sole leather is stiff enoughthat the scoring had to be deep and this left very little substance connecting the leather flap to the sole. Infact tearing in this area was frequent and too try to correct this situation it became common practice to glue a canvas tape rienforcing the leather flap were the bending was most severe. It was just a smallstep from this to realize that you could do away woth the thicker leather inner sole and scoring and simply rely 100 percent on the glued tape whichyou would turn up thus becoming a rib (gemming). As suchyou are now relying on a glued connection which is in fact very similar in location to typical cement construction. This glue will often fail simply due to moisture from rain and perspiration, however keep in mind that with cement construction there usually is a wider glue joint vs the common thinner gemming and thus gemming is prone to quicker failure.

If however you never wear your shoes in rain or snow and have very dry feet (perspire very little and usually have dryed cracked skin) then there is a high probability the the gemming will never fail (nor would the cement constructed shoe). If on the other hand you perspire alot then gemming is a virtual guarantee and this in more or less time.

Originally Posted by mimo 

This thread is becoming shoe nerd sex.  I am enjoying it.

But probably better get the subject back to Vass before the sound of worldwide facepalming becomes too deafening.

Question: my feet are a little curved, and wide across the forefoot.  I don't have a particularly high instep, but do find some oxfords tight over the ball of my foot.  Anyway, do any of you Vass mega-customers have any suggestions on Vass lasts?  

Originally Posted by rikod 

Good to know that it fits, I was just comparing to my size, I'm US8D and 40.5 fit perfect so I was guessing 43.5 or 44, but things don't always work like that.

Originally Posted by rikod 

A few more pics with a little bit of the morning sun. Plain toe, burgundy shell, F last.

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Originally Posted by rikod 

A few more pics with a little bit of the morning sun. Plain toe, burgundy shell, F last.


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Originally Posted by Fiddler 

Originally Posted by rikod 

A few more pics with a little bit of the morning sun. Plain toe, burgundy shell, F last.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)