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The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread - Page 367

post #5491 of 12220
To get back to the good stuff, I have included a ton of pics of the swatches in various lighting. I numbered them 1-8, from left to right looking at the computer monitor.
1. 6319
2. Red Cognac
3. Antic Cognac
4. 6125 Cognac
5. Cognac
6. Burgundy
7. Oxblood
8. Dark Brown Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





































Burgundy, Oxblood, Dark Brown

Edited by gyasih - 1/31/13 at 1:33pm
post #5492 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post


ALL goodyear welted RTW shoes made in England are gemmed. 

If you are a purist who wants a truly handcrafted shoe and wishes to spend less than $1000 for it the most obvious choice is Vass. 

Another fine option if you fear the gemming are shoes made in the blake rapid construction.

 

Thanks, G.  I kind of assumed your first point, but was surprised that the likes of EG, JL, G&G, and the "handgrade" ranges of other makers, would be included.

 

So, in answer to my previous question, Vass shoes are not gemmed, and are completely hand-welted and hand-stitched soles?  Man, I love them even more now.  Any idea what other makers fall into this category?

 

As for blake rapid, fair point, but it's horses for courses: for a lightweight loafer or something, I get it, but to be honest I always prefer the way a corked, welted shoe moulds to the foot.

 

Anyway, I guess both you and the Hoo are right: gemming does fail, it is inferior to a totally hand-sewn construction, but in the real world (especially for vain self-obsessed types like us who rotate several pairs), we might never know.  The big point about what Hoo said, I think, is that it puts a question mark over paying so much for the top brands - unless you're going to treat them with kid gloves and wear them twice a year.  I've no issue with a pair of $300 Cheaneys with that construction, but if I'd just bought a G&G MTO for $1300+, I'd be pissed.

 

So, Vass rocks then.  No dissenters in this thread, I'm sure. :)

post #5493 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

ALL goodyear welted RTW shoes made in England are gemmed.

Goodyear MEANS gemmed. In handwelt, a part of the leather insole in cored out and sewn to the welt.. In Goodyear, a piece of textile is glued to the insole and the welt sewn to it (then to the upper).
post #5494 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

What an asshole

As grown men, cursing/ offensive language as an insult on a forum is totally unnecessary. Best to remember the internet is forever.
post #5495 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by rikod View Post

Vass shell, from left saddle, burgundy, saddle, whiskey and burgundy
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Love the two ones in saddle
post #5496 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Thanks, G.  I kind of assumed your first point, but was surprised that the likes of EG, JL, G&G, and the "handgrade" ranges of other makers, would be included.

So, in answer to my previous question, Vass shoes are not gemmed, and are completely hand-welted and hand-stitched soles?  Man, I love them even more now.  Any idea what other makers fall into this category?

In terms of modern footwear, Vass is the only hand welted shoe available at that price point (at least unless we add in some not very well known artisans who make small batches).
post #5497 of 12220
Rikod-

The Burgundy with 360 welt is beautiful. The difference b/w Whiskey and Saddle seems to be very nuanced isn't it?
post #5498 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

What an asshole

As grown men, cursing/ offensive language as an insult on a forum is totally unnecessary. Best to remember the internet is forever.

This. Hoo-man, delivery aside, was trying to clearly make a point that is often ignored here. There is no need for name calling. There are not many members here who are willing to take iconic makers to task. If is refreshing to read posts that are something more than fan-boy ravings. They all have their place but fundamental topics such as gemming help people understand and learn beyond simply looking at a shoe and saying "I like it" for esthetic reasons and justify their liking of it simply because it is EG or JL.
post #5499 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post


Good stuff. Thank you for posting them up! They look so different indoors and out!

Is the third from left, a plain brown?
post #5500 of 12220
I think it's one of Vass' Cognac colors. The one on the far right is Dark Brown.
post #5501 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post

Rikod-

The Burgundy with 360 welt is beautiful. The difference b/w Whiskey and Saddle seems to be very nuanced isn't it?

Yes the difference is subtle but a little more apparent in person, saddle is more orange, whiskey is lighter and yellowish. The ptb was inspired in the shoe Moo posted a few pages back but here in the F since I already have a few ptb's in the P2. Thanks
post #5502 of 12220
i appreciate it.

when the passion calls, you just got to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoo-man View Post

Thanks mate! smile.gif


Truthfully, l don't even want to be posting here. l only post here because l feel l can contribute some good information to try and help others. I am sooo bleedin' busy these days and posting this type of information overloads an already overloaded work load, and l do get tired when trying to take on extra activities such as this.  

I don't know if l can even continue to post here. l am burning the candle at both ends. It's almost 5am and l am still working. 
post #5503 of 12220
A few Vass Chromexcel photos...up for sale in my signature in case anyone's interested.




post #5504 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

What an asshole

Gemmed or hand welted?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

ALL goodyear welted RTW shoes made in England are gemmed. Including top of the line Lobb, EG and G&G. There are very few RTW makers who hand welt or who use a leather welt.

If you are a purist who wants a truly handcrafted shoe and wishes to spend less than $1000 for it the most obvious choice is Vass. Although there are other small scale makers in this price point.

Another fine option if you fear the gemming are shoes made in the blake rapid construction. Scads of Italian makers use this method although with the Italian makers one must be very careful to verify the construction methods as they often work in a multitude of methods and don't often make it known what method they use.

Personally I don't believe gemming to be inherently 'bad' as it has been the primary method of manufacture for 50 plus years in the factory manufacture of goodyear welted shoes. If it were the travesty that some people around here seem to think it is we would not have so little evidence of it's terrible inferiority. I think one would be well advised to take a more detailed/nuanced approach in their judgement of what makes a quality shoe and understand that even with gemming there will be differences in the quality of the materials used and the care of the workmanship, just as there is with handwelting.

It's all relative. But goodyear welted is only as good as cement construction due to gemming let along the numerous cost cutting materials used, eg celastic stiffener instead of leather, canvass lining instead of leather, cheap metal shanks, etc.

It's ludicrous to argue that Goodyear condstruction is not bad because it has been around for a long time.
post #5505 of 12220
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post

Goodyear MEANS gemmed. In handwelt, a part of the leather insole in cored out and sewn to the welt.. In Goodyear, a piece of textile is glued to the insole and the welt sewn to it (then to the upper).

This is how I understood it.
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