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The Ultimate Vass Porn Thread - Page 154

post #2296 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

was hoping you'd post the close-up of the Vass cognac pebble. It's subtler than other pebble I've seen.
those boots'll age well

Actually, I don't see much difference between the common run of Scotch Grain and this.

It is pulled flat over the toe and through the vamp...perhaps moreso than it would be if it were machine lasted but not much. The flattening effect is pretty commo0n for artificially textured leathers.
post #2297 of 12510
Any pics of "worn" shell boots?
post #2298 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

Is that the 'Viennese charm' you're working again G ?
People's eyes start to glaze when i mention the word 'welt' or even 'schuhe' for that matter biggrin.gif
but please explain - how they make the pebble at/for Vass

you're welcome.

actually, the pebble is not different as you can see it's only smoothed out around the toe and at the heel(not visible).

it's about the lasting and the way the upper is treated, when resting on the last.
post #2299 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slewfoot View Post

Vass Theresianer boot on the F last in 43.5 in Cognac Scotch Grain. Killer stuff and amazing fit. I actually like how even though I asked for a beveled waist it's more subtle than most which goes well with the boot. That being said I might be willing to sell them to re-order with a different last and sole as that's just where my mind is a bit more these days. If anyone's interested click the link in my signature. Since they fit so well I'm completely fine to keep them otherwise.

IMG_2279.jpg

Fritzl the grain on these Cheaneys is what I mean: to me looks rougher, more 3D. yes the Cheaney toe is smoother cos it's stretched, but unstretched vamp appears more textured to me satisfied.gif ay, but i could be mistaken
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post #2300 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


Fritzl the grain on these Cheaneys is what I mean:

imo, by a thin hair.

fwiw, the cheaney toe is burnished? so this is artifical and not from the making process. i could be wrong.
post #2301 of 12510
The run-of the-mill 'Scotch-Grain' is a cowhide (not calf) which gets grain corrected, so the coarse grain gets sanded off. Then a new artificial grain gets constructed by pressing a textured roller over the hide, leaving that 'mountain and valley' texture. Of course you can design the surface of the roller in anyway you like. (If you want to, you can end up with a leather which shows little flowers all-over.) The colouring of the Vass leather is typical for Scotch-Grain, the hide gets dyed in one shade, then an additional darker colour gets rolled over, the darker shades stays on the 'mountain tops', with the 'valleys' in a lighter shade.

Judging by the pictures (I can be wrong) the Cheaney leather might be what is usually called a 'Country-Calf', a full-grain (not corrected grain) leather which gets in addition a rolled-over texture to hide blemishes and increase yield. The leather has a softer handle than the standard Scotch-Grain. Take a magnifying glass, can you see the pores between the pebble texture?

There are other ways to create a pebble texture, the leather can be shrunk or milled and tumbled. But that's quite a costly way of doing things.

http://www.weinheimer-leder.com/images/dsc01664.jpg
post #2302 of 12510
the Cheaneys are burnished yes.

cheers - the smoothness of the Vass pebble is more obvious in Will's chukka and Manton's 3 eye London - both of which are just fantastic IMO - the grain in the lower shot looks almost like a glaze. Perhaps it's the same as the Cheaney, but just pulled tighter by the hand-lasting and long resting. Only way to know is to ask Vass, and that aint easy.
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post #2303 of 12510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

...but just pulled tighter by the hand-lasting and long resting. Only way to know is to ask Vass, and that aint easy.

sorry, i don't need will or manton. you can ask every bespoke maker, i already did, hence my comment. it's that easy.

in my case it was mr. weiner. for me one of the most authentic guys i met in regard of shoemaking. no surprise, that fellow member binge fell in love during his visit to vienna. he choosed one of the sample models, which fitted him perfectly and it's one of his favourite shoes. no magic included.

on a random note: i handled a pair of shoes in presence of my leather conceptionist. it shined good and was subtle. the look and feel was gorgeous. he just said: it's crap, so what do i know.
post #2304 of 12510
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post #2305 of 12510
^^^^very nice - that the Burgundy?
post #2306 of 12510
Great shoe in a wonderful colour. What colour is it?
post #2307 of 12510
Thread Starter 
those IT OX are sweet

color looks like bordo'
post #2308 of 12510
Whats happening at Vass, they dumping shoes ? Looks like Ascot have a shit load off Vass and theyre all on ebay. Some strange styles too crazy.gif
post #2309 of 12510
maybe Ascot commissions them himself. Maybe they were made for a particular market (a lot of v small sizes) - they didn't sell, and he got them cheap.
post #2310 of 12510
Either way, they're nasty.
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