Your understanding spot on with the Cleverley RTW range being made by C&J's.
The first batch of Cleverley semi-bespoke shoes back in 2010 were 100% Crocketts
because they were using the same box and labels from Crocketts to package their shoes.
The packaging recently changed to not give the game away.
Also, you need to go back 20 years and look at the history of the two firms and their
trading strategy. Compared to Church; Lobb & Green. Crocketts never had a strong high
street present. Their trade were predominantly making shoes for independent shops and retail chain
and putting the shop names on them - so anyone could easily go up to Northampton and
tell Crocketts to make XYZ using their own last/design or using one of Crockett existing lasts.
This model still happening now to respect existing clients, but to a lesser extend
because their strategy in the last 10 years has been to establish the Crockett & Jones brand name
recognition by opening up Crockett shops in the City, Mayfair, Jermyn etc...
They just opened a new store along Knightsbridge next door to Church's and Harrods,
they been eyeing that unit for over 5 years.
ILLs - really interesting, thx. There was a Northampton insider who posted a while back, and came across as unbiased in his views. He had some interesting insights. (but i don't remember the thread sos). He and his father had been in the trade all their lives, had worked with nearly all the makers at some time or other, and IIRC he nominated C&J when pushed on which factory cut least corners and had the highest standards overall. - so altho I had no idea til u said it, I guess AC semi being C&J doesn't surprise me. I understand that the skilled workers are in such demand that they can get a job anywhere, and of course bring their skills with them. Boils down to the fact that altho C&J doesn't make top level shoes under their own label it doesn't mean they can't select a decent skin or bevel a decent waist. Come to think of it, the leather on my C&J handgrades is as good as anything I've seen.