LOL! Nice comeback. But seriously, gyasih, it'd do us a huge favour if you could upload clearer pictures.
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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...) - Page 366post #5476 of 198291/26/13 at 2:29pmpost #5477 of 198291/26/13 at 2:48pmI'll attempt to do clearer pics tomorrow, I won't be able to address identifying colors until later this week. There was another post #4725 or something that had leather samples too.
Here are some raw pictures.
The second one is definitely 6319, moving from left to right.
Black, Blue, Oxblood and Dark Brown from right to left.
Edited by gyasih - 1/26/13 at 6:10pmpost #5478 of 198291/26/13 at 4:38pmQuote:
You don't need a DSLR here. Just do it in good, preferably shaded (e.g. not direct sunlight), daylight.post #5479 of 198291/26/13 at 5:10pmpost #5480 of 198291/26/13 at 6:35pmpost #5481 of 198291/26/13 at 11:31pmQuote:Originally Posted by Hoo-man
Everything is wrong with gemming, it has no place on a highend shoe. E.G etc use high end leathers and finishes, but it is still not a true highend shoe, it is only an immitation of a highend shoe.
Some info about gemming
* Gemming failure can occur in as little as a few years as l have witnessed by seeing various people's shoes online.
* l spoke with a quality shoemaker who repairs and makes hundreds of shoes each year and he said "gemming failure is common place". l didn't even have to prompt him, he came straight out with the information.
* l spoke with a leading cobbler and when l asked about gemming failure, he said "it happens all the time".
* DW (a member here who is expert in shoemaking and repairs) reports exactly the same thing as l have.
* Gemming tape used to be available because it was well known that gemming failure does occur regularly.
This tells me there is something to the issue, it is obviously occuring regularly.
Why don't more people report gemming failure?
Cobblers, shoemakers and the public don't report it because they don't know any better. There are excellent ways to test whether a cobbler knoiws his work or is just another hack. This is what you ask:
* Show him a gemmed shoe and ask if he has ever seen gemming failure. lt is most likely that he will say he has never seen it. This will tell you something very very important, it tells you that it is almost a certainty that he hasn't stripped back the shoe properly by removing the cork to check for gemming failure. I know this because all quality repairers in my city have reported it occuring, but the cobblers who never strip back the cork (most of them) never report it occuring.
Igents have no clue if their shoes are suffering from gemmed failure either. Here is some proof:
No-one except Son Of Saphir and myself picked it up. The gemming failure is as clear as the nose on your face. See, most people don't know any different, so how can they report it???
What's the problem with gemming failure?
lol - had a feeling u guys know each other well. great poster, he's missedpost #5482 of 198291/27/13 at 1:58amQuote:
Come back, SoS!
I also want to know more about this gemming failure business...an idiot guide to what's gemmed, what isn't, and how to know if it's failed. But maybe that should be another thread...post #5483 of 198291/27/13 at 2:03amQuote:
Search function is your friend.
Aside from gemming failure, EG and G&G use heat molded stiffener on toes and JL on toe and heel cup, where better made shoes uses leather.post #5484 of 198291/27/13 at 2:23amQuote:
Blow me :p
Anyway, interesting. Really that surprises me given their price point. So, back to the thread subject, where does Vass stand on these various issues?post #5485 of 198291/27/13 at 3:55ampost #5486 of 198291/27/13 at 6:50amQuote:According to the sales manager at Vass F has a higher instep than U.
Just received a mail from him on exactly this subject.post #5487 of 198291/27/13 at 7:27amQuote:
ALL goodyear welted RTW shoes made in England are gemmed. Including top of the line Lobb, EG and G&G. There are very few RTW makers who hand welt or who use a leather welt.
If you are a purist who wants a truly handcrafted shoe and wishes to spend less than $1000 for it the most obvious choice is Vass. Although there are other small scale makers in this price point.
Another fine option if you fear the gemming are shoes made in the blake rapid construction. Scads of Italian makers use this method although with the Italian makers one must be very careful to verify the construction methods as they often work in a multitude of methods and don't often make it known what method they use.
Personally I don't believe gemming to be inherently 'bad' as it has been the primary method of manufacture for 50 plus years in the factory manufacture of goodyear welted shoes. If it were the travesty that some people around here seem to think it is we would not have so little evidence of it's terrible inferiority. I think one would be well advised to take a more detailed/nuanced approach in their judgement of what makes a quality shoe and understand that even with gemming there will be differences in the quality of the materials used and the care of the workmanship, just as there is with handwelting.post #5488 of 198291/27/13 at 7:42ampost #5489 of 198291/27/13 at 8:00ampost #5490 of 198291/27/13 at 8:11am
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