Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc. Last post on Yesterday at 8:30 pm in Classic Menswear
- Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II Last post on 1/19/17 at 3:58am in Classic Menswear
- Saint Crispin Leathersoul 401 Utility Balmoral Boot Brown Calfskin Suede UK6 US7 Last post on 8/31/15 at 10:44am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF AUG 24, 2015 Last post on 5/28/16 at 9:36am in Classic Menswear
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF JUL 20, 2015 Last post on 7/28/15 at 1:12pm in Classic Menswear
Allen Edmonds: Sizing Guide
Last edited: 4/29/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: 379X LastLast edited: 4/4/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Hampton LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Leydon LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Van LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Deo Veritas
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Blake
- H.N. White
- House of Kydos
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Oliver Cabell
- once a day
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...) - Page 1312post #19666 of 205687/14/16 at 7:06pmpost #19667 of 205687/14/16 at 7:14pmpost #19668 of 205687/14/16 at 7:45pmpost #19669 of 205687/14/16 at 8:00pmpost #19670 of 205687/14/16 at 8:59pmQuote:
Seems a bit too categorical, since the construction in this particular instance is, somewhat anomalously, different from the way the outsole is put on. Seeing as the outsole is probably the least important part of a shoe following the lace, I wouldn't write off something that's otherwise well constructed.post #19671 of 205687/14/16 at 9:04pmpost #19672 of 205687/14/16 at 9:31pmQuote:Originally Posted by jssdc
Seems a bit too categorical, since the construction in this particular instance is, somewhat anomalously, different from the way the outsole is put on. Seeing as the outsole is probably the least important part of a shoe following the lace, I wouldn't write off something that's otherwise well constructed.
"Otherwise well constructed" is exactly my point. Don't half ass a job, no half measures. Do it properly.post #19673 of 205687/15/16 at 5:22ampost #19674 of 205687/15/16 at 9:41amQuote:
If you have ever bought a Goodyear welted shoe, you have already done this.Quote:
VASS shoes are arguably better constructed than most shoe brands we talk about on this forum. It's interesting that you would suggest the opposite because their old school techniques limit the way they can attach rubber soles on their shoes. The shoe orthodoxy considers rubber soles a half measure, which is probably why they are not set up to "do it properly".
As far as their construction being half assed or not done properly, that is a bad argument. A better one would be that they should not offer rubber soles, if people are not happy with how they apply them.post #19675 of 205687/15/16 at 3:03pmAllow me to chime in on this discussion. I have visited the Vass workshop a couple of times myself, and can say the following about hand/machine sttiching.
There are no stitching machines at the Vass workshop (apart from, obviously, some singer machines used to stitch the uppers).
As already said, there is indeed a difference between the welt stitching, and the sole stiching. At Vass, both are done by hand. The welt stitching is done the traditional way, and is what makes Vass able to say they make handwelted shoes.
The sole stitching is also dnoe compeltely by hand. The leather soles are glued to the shoe, then hammered. A channel is cut with a shoemaker's knife, and the sole edge stitching is stitched inside that channel, completely by hand. The channel is then hammered close, so the stithcing is invisible from the outside.
For a Dainite sole, the sole is glued to the shoe as with any other maker, and instead of stitching it all the way round, Vass only stitched the toe area. This is because the glue is strong enough to hold the rubber to the leather, but since the tip area undergoes a lot of stress, they stitch it by hand to ensure the tip won't come loose. Could they stitch the entire Dainit sole by hand? Sure.. They just decide not to since the glue used makes for a strong enough bond.
I have attached a couple of pictures to show the process.post #19676 of 205687/15/16 at 8:38pmpost #19677 of 205687/16/16 at 8:20ampost #19678 of 205687/16/16 at 9:59ampost #19679 of 205687/16/16 at 10:43amQuote:
I've never owned or ordered Bonafe but most of the StC examples I have seen do not appear to be stitched through the Dianite and are most likely glued, please correct me if I am wrong as I am no expert on technique. I do recall someone mentioning that Vass will do a complete sole stitch if requested.post #19680 of 205687/16/16 at 4:26pm
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: 379X Last
- › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread... 17 seconds ago
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II... 41 seconds ago
- › John Elliott - official affiliate thread 1 minute ago
- › Skoaktiebolaget – Carmina, John Lobb, Enzo Bonafè, Carlos Santos,... 1 minute ago
- › OFFICIAL President Trump Thread 1 minute ago
- › Official Sales Alert thread 2 minutes ago
- › The Official Alden Thread for 2017 - Share Reviews, Sizing, Advice,... 9 minutes ago
- › Fake or Real (Authentic, Genuine, etc.) -- Official Authentication... 13 minutes ago
- › Suit Advice for Chubby Dude w/ weird measurements 15 minutes ago
- › A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread 17 minutes ago
- › Alden Brown analine (CXL) Plain toe blucher by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Men's Overlord Oxford, Brown, 8 D US by Lobster33
- › Alden #907 Straight Tip Bal Calfskin by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Leeds 2.0 Derby Men's Shoes Size US 10 D Walnut... by Lobster33
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway
- › Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for...