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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...) - Page 1312

post #19666 of 20251
Seems like every brand with a machine stitched sole can stitch dainite. I personally wouldn't buy a cemented sole shoe, regardless of make.
post #19667 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post

Seems like every brand with a machine stitched sole can stitch dainite. I personally wouldn't buy a cemented sole shoe, regardless of make.

But Vass has not machines. 100% Hand made.  I have not Vass rubber soles but no one here commented any issue.

post #19668 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapasman View Post

But Vass has not machines. 100% Hand made.  I have not Vass rubber soles but no one here commented any issue.

Uppers must be stitched by machine, yes?
post #19669 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post

Uppers must be stitched by machine, yes?

Yes, they use sewing machines for stitching the uppers, but that's it as far as machines go.
post #19670 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post

Seems like every brand with a machine stitched sole can stitch dainite. I personally wouldn't buy a cemented sole shoe, regardless of make.

Seems a bit too categorical, since the construction in this particular instance is, somewhat anomalously, different from the way the outsole is put on. Seeing as the outsole is probably the least important part of a shoe following the lace, I wouldn't write off something that's otherwise well constructed.
post #19671 of 20251
The notion that the outsole, or the way the outsole is attached to welt, is unimportant, is quite untrue.
post #19672 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post

Seems a bit too categorical, since the construction in this particular instance is, somewhat anomalously, different from the way the outsole is put on. Seeing as the outsole is probably the least important part of a shoe following the lace, I wouldn't write off something that's otherwise well constructed.

"Otherwise well constructed" is exactly my point. Don't half ass a job, no half measures. Do it properly.
post #19673 of 20251
Are there any markings on the Vass shoes or the box to indicate the shoe width?
post #19674 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post

Seems like every brand with a machine stitched sole can stitch dainite. I personally wouldn't buy a cemented sole shoe, regardless of make.

If you have ever bought a Goodyear welted shoe, you have already done this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post

"Otherwise well constructed" is exactly my point. Don't half ass a job, no half measures. Do it properly.

VASS shoes are arguably better constructed than most shoe brands we talk about on this forum. It's interesting that you would suggest the opposite because their old school techniques limit the way they can attach rubber soles on their shoes. The shoe orthodoxy considers rubber soles a half measure, which is probably why they are not set up to "do it properly".

As far as their construction being half assed or not done properly, that is a bad argument. A better one would be that they should not offer rubber soles, if people are not happy with how they apply them.
post #19675 of 20251
Allow me to chime in on this discussion. I have visited the Vass workshop a couple of times myself, and can say the following about hand/machine sttiching.

There are no stitching machines at the Vass workshop (apart from, obviously, some singer machines used to stitch the uppers).

As already said, there is indeed a difference between the welt stitching, and the sole stiching. At Vass, both are done by hand. The welt stitching is done the traditional way, and is what makes Vass able to say they make handwelted shoes.

The sole stitching is also dnoe compeltely by hand. The leather soles are glued to the shoe, then hammered. A channel is cut with a shoemaker's knife, and the sole edge stitching is stitched inside that channel, completely by hand. The channel is then hammered close, so the stithcing is invisible from the outside.

For a Dainite sole, the sole is glued to the shoe as with any other maker, and instead of stitching it all the way round, Vass only stitched the toe area. This is because the glue is strong enough to hold the rubber to the leather, but since the tip area undergoes a lot of stress, they stitch it by hand to ensure the tip won't come loose. Could they stitch the entire Dainit sole by hand? Sure.. They just decide not to since the glue used makes for a strong enough bond.

I have attached a couple of pictures to show the process.



post #19676 of 20251



My first (but definitely not my last) pair of Vass. F-last in Cognac museum.
post #19677 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post

"Otherwise well constructed" is exactly my point. Don't half ass a job, no half measures. Do it properly.

Out of curiosity, which makers in your view do Dainite properly?
post #19678 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post

Out of curiosity, which makers in your view do Dainite properly?

Anyone that does or has the capability to fully stitch a rubber sole. Since we're talking about a hand welted maker, Bonafe can do it and I plan to have StC do it for my next MTO.
post #19679 of 20251
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post


Anyone that does or has the capability to fully stitch a rubber sole. Since we're talking about a hand welted maker, Bonafe can do it and I plan to have StC do it for my next MTO.

I've never owned or ordered Bonafe but most of the StC examples I have seen do not appear to be stitched through the Dianite and are most likely glued, please correct me if I am wrong as I am no expert on technique.  I do recall someone mentioning that Vass will do a complete sole stitch if requested.

post #19680 of 20251
You're correct, StC does cement a dainite sole on. When I asked my retailer if they could stitch it on they said something along the lines of "I don't see why not." I opted for a leather sole with a Vibram topy so I didn't explore the option.
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