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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...) - Page 1277

post #19141 of 20262

If, to you, quality is defined only as strength of construction and quality of hide..... I think you should probably read more about shoes, and shoe making, to understand more about what goes into a pair of shoes. 

The shoemaking thread on SF is a great place to start, and contains a lot of knowledge that one might find interesting and useful.

There are other makers in the price proximity of Vass that are of (very) comparable "quality".

But anyway, I'll drop this as I don't want to detract further from the thread topic. And neither is this meant to be antagonistic.


Edited by ThunderMarch - 4/20/16 at 11:16pm
post #19142 of 20262
Then your tone doesn't match you intent smile.gif
post #19143 of 20262
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

I could see how one might take Vass rivaling Fukuda as Vass being of similar quality to Fukuda.

The follow up definitely clarifies, though it will likely read as hedging a bit, given the last bit.

True smile.gif
post #19144 of 20262

I've read this thread for a while and liked all the gorgeous shoes and boots shown. I am planning to make my first MTO purchase (balmoral on F last ) and wanted to get some opinion on sizing. (I'm in US and it's difficult to try out in person)

 

My left foot is little short of US 10.5D and my right foot is 10E on brannock with normal instep.

 

I wear US 10E in Allen Edmonds 65 last,

US 10E in AE 97 last (Macneil cordovan),

UK 9 on Carmina Detroit last

US 10 on Ralph Lauren Marlow (by C&J),

US 10 on Brooks Brother cordovan SWB (by C&J)

US 10 on Alden for Jcrew PCT

 

I understand that e-sizing is difficult and have read through the thread on sizing. I'm thinking 43.5 for my left foot and 43 for right , and would appreciate any help.

post #19145 of 20262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabru View Post
 

I've read this thread for a while and liked all the gorgeous shoes and boots shown. I am planning to make my first MTO purchase (balmoral on F last ) and wanted to get some opinion on sizing. (I'm in US and it's difficult to try out in person)

 

My left foot is little short of US 10.5D and my right foot is 10E on brannock with normal instep.

 

I wear US 10E in Allen Edmonds 65 last,

US 10E in AE 97 last (Macneil cordovan),

UK 9 on Carmina Detroit last

US 10 on Ralph Lauren Marlow (by C&J),

US 10 on Brooks Brother cordovan SWB (by C&J)

US 10 on Alden for Jcrew PCT

 

I understand that e-sizing is difficult and have read through the thread on sizing. I'm thinking 43.5 for my left foot and 43 for right , and would appreciate any help.

I am a 10D brannock. We have similar feet. 

 

Carmina:

9UK Forest

8.5UK Detroit

9UK Oscar

 

Alden

9.5D Barrie/Trubalance

10D Aberdeen, Grant

10E Plaza

 

Vass

43F last

 

C&J by RL 

10D Marlow (? last)

9.5D Lindrick (325)

 

I would feel safe recommended 43F for a 10E foot with a normal instep. 

post #19146 of 20262
Thought I'd share! Left to right (all different sizes):

Budapest last - Peter last - New Peter last - F last - U last - SP last - K last

post #19147 of 20262

How does the F last compare to the P2 last? If I wear 43.5 F will a 43 P2 work?

post #19148 of 20262
Quote:
Originally Posted by vestbash View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I am a 10D brannock. We have similar feet. 

 

Carmina:

9UK Forest

8.5UK Detroit

9UK Oscar

 

Alden

9.5D Barrie/Trubalance

10D Aberdeen, Grant

10E Plaza

 

Vass

43F last

 

C&J by RL 

10D Marlow (? last)

9.5D Lindrick (325)

 

I would feel safe recommended 43F for a 10E foot with a normal instep

Thank you , that's helpful.

post #19149 of 20262

43 in F last:

 

9UK EG 888 last

9UK Enzo Bonafe 946 last

post #19150 of 20262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Incitatus View Post

Hmm I'm not sure where in my post I am equating Vass with Fukuda. These are very different products merely by the fact that Yohei Fukuda offers a fully bespoke process. I am merely stating that for me Yohei Fukuda is currently the only maker that I would consider as an alternative to Vass, well knowing that the price is close to 10 fold, ergo the value must be equally greater.

Although I'm not sure that quality as defined only as strength of construction and quality of the upper hide is quite that night and day.

To be honest, if you're solely comparing quality based on construction and quality of upper alone then pretty much all bespoke makers (except makers who own tanneries which allows them access to the best leather upper available) in the world are comparable to Vass...

Even then, you're also assuming that the handwork/skill/QC that goes into a pair of handwelted shoes are the same across all makers including Vass?
post #19151 of 20262
Quote:
Originally Posted by letsi View Post


To be honest, if you're solely comparing quality based on construction and quality of upper alone then pretty much all bespoke makers (except makers who own tanneries which allows them access to the best leather upper available) in the world are comparable to Vass...

Even then, you're also assuming that the handwork/skill/QC that goes into a pair of handwelted shoes are the same across all makers including Vass?

 

You definitely make a good point. And your train of thought is generally accurate. 

But even when comparing a bespoke maker vs an X maker that maybe does primarily RTW or even MTOs... How each of them chooses to do their clicking would differ (cutting for economy vs choosing the very best part of the hide). It is not uncommon that a bespoke maker charging top dollar only cuts leather enough for one pair of shoes from the entire hide. But a different maker might get 3 or 4 pairs. This would ultimately translate to very discernible differences in the quality of leather in the end product, for the consumer.

Even if they get their hides from the same tannery. 

I totally agree with your second point.

post #19152 of 20262
I do actually agree with both of you and I am not assuming that the work being done is equal between the brands I mentioned.

What I was trying to convey is that I would gladly consider paying 4000 USD for a pair of bespoke Yohei Fukuda shoes vs. 440 EUR for a pair of MTO Vass. This obviously implies that I consider the Yohei Fukuda pair to have significant advantages over a pair of Vass. In the case of Fukuda this is primarily the way he designs his models and the precision in the execution. Also the shape of his lasts, which I think are the most well proportioned available and of course the benefits of a bespoke fit.

However I do not consider for instance GG in the same way, because I do not find their last shapes to be particularly attractive and the finishing of their uppers simply doesnt appeal to me, Therefore given the price difference, to me, a pair of GG is inferior value to Vass.

In terms of leather quality. I have done plenty of leather work myself for years as a hobby, briefcases and such. So I have some experience assessing leather quality and this is an important criteria for me. In my view the leather that I have gotten from Vass is superior to other brands that I have tried and owned, including Carmina, Meermin, Edward Green, Barker and Crockett & Jones. In my opinon Crockett and Jones comes closest. This is of course just my experience. The few pairs of Lobb I have seen have looked very good and I would rate at least equal to my own Vass.

One maker I would very much like to try is St. Crispin. But for now Vass hits a sweetspot for me in tradeoff between price quality and aesthetics which other brands cannot compete with. This does not mean Vass makes a better or equal product in all respects to all other makers. I plan to be in Japan next year and commission a Fukuda pair and happily give you my opinion once their done smile.gif
post #19153 of 20262
^^^^^if what you said above is strictly your opinion then I can respect that & partially agree but the rest of stuff that you said is all crazy talk regarding gg, eg, & John lobb. I own all the shoes brand you mentioned above minus Fukuda. Vass makes very good dam shoes no doubt but please let's not go over board & say crazy things. And I will leave it at that sir.
Edited by TtownMD - 4/22/16 at 6:47am
post #19154 of 20262
Lol, if you all think I'm crazy, I must be crazy smile.gif

I guess we can agree that we all love great shoes smile.gif
post #19155 of 20262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Incitatus View Post

I do actually agree with both of you and I am not assuming that the work being done is equal between the brands I mentioned.

What I was trying to convey is that I would gladly consider paying 4000 USD for a pair of bespoke Yohei Fukuda shoes vs. 440 EUR for a pair of MTO Vass. This obviously implies that I consider the Yohei Fukuda pair to have significant advantages over a pair of Vass. In the case of Fukuda this is primarily the way he designs his models and the precision in the execution. Also the shape of his lasts, which I think are the most well proportioned available and of course the benefits of a bespoke fit.

However I do not consider for instance GG in the same way, because I do not find their last shapes to be particularly attractive and the finishing of their uppers simply doesnt appeal to me, Therefore given the price difference, to me, a pair of GG is inferior value to Vass.

In terms of leather quality. I have done plenty of leather work myself for years as a hobby, briefcases and such. So I have some experience assessing leather quality and this is an important criteria for me. In my view the leather that I have gotten from Vass is superior to other brands that I have tried and owned, including Carmina, Meermin, Edward Green, Barker and Crockett & Jones. In my opinon Crockett and Jones comes closest. This is of course just my experience. The few pairs of Lobb I have seen have looked very good and I would rate at least equal to my own Vass.

One maker I would very much like to try is St. Crispin. But for now Vass hits a sweetspot for me in tradeoff between price quality and aesthetics which other brands cannot compete with. This does not mean Vass makes a better or equal product in all respects to all other makers. I plan to be in Japan next year and commission a Fukuda pair and happily give you my opinion once their done smile.gif

 

I agree with you on a few counts. Especially the highlighted portions.

Price is definitely not an indicator of quality. Not by any means.

I personally like C&J, but as a whole, I feel none of the English makers represent a good value proposition. I will simply be lambasted if I were not saying this in the Vass thread. Or maybe I will be lambasted anyway.

In terms of your value assesment, you are spot on. 

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