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Allen Edmonds: Sizing Guide
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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...) - Page 1020post #15286 of 207535/25/15 at 1:38pmpost #15287 of 207535/25/15 at 1:45pmpost #15288 of 207535/25/15 at 1:57pmpost #15289 of 207535/25/15 at 1:58pmanother good measure of shell quality is to see how it responds to moisture and water. when exposed to water, the horween vass uses will slightly rise on the surface but then will subside with both brushing and time. my meermin shell on the other hand will not subside no matter how much time passes or how much i brush the affected areapost #15290 of 207535/25/15 at 10:37pmpost #15291 of 207535/26/15 at 3:03amQuote:Originally Posted by dieworkwear
@DWFII, are there any downsides to having a seamless heel like the ones shown above?
Don’t see any downside construction wise, as long as the heels are well supported.
Seamless heels do feel and looks like you’re wearing a pair of bespoke to me.
The only downside I am aware are the costs to Vass and other manufacturers in material
And wastage. Doing a seamless you’ll most probably be asking for a wholecut oxford
Or Monkstraps, thus the craftsman needs to carefully select a flawless piece of leather,
Ideally free of blemishes and defects. Any mistakes, it’s back to square one with another
large piece of leather again.
Do an image search on John Lobb: Vale & Saint Crepin 2010 models for the ultimate in
1 piece seamless heel shoes. Because of Hermes incredible attention to details, the
amount of wastage involved were above average....post #15292 of 207535/26/15 at 5:09ampost #15293 of 207535/26/15 at 5:37amQuote:
Absolutely @DWFII if it's a seamless counters--heel pieces there is no wastage to speak of.
If we're talking about a 1 piece sheet like the JL Chapel, Vale and JL SC2010 model, then the wastage margins can be higher. Then again, only the ultra skilled craftsman would be selected to work on these.post #15294 of 207535/26/15 at 6:09amQuote:Originally Posted by Sammy - Ascot
if it's a seamless counters--heel pieces there is no wastage to speak of.
If we're talking about a 1 piece sheet like the JL Chapel, Vale and JL SC2010 model, then the wastage margins can be higher. Then again, only the ultra skilled craftsman would be selected to work on these.
Well, I was "corrected" earlier on in this thread to the effect that the discussion was about seamless heels not whole cut oxfords. So I was trying to be somewhat circumspect in my response.
But be that as it may, I think we have to be very careful about using the term "waste." Many (if not all) factories will cut leather into the shoulder and belly...and use every bit of it, despite a certain knowledge that it is all but offal. This is "cutting to maximize yield or efficiency." The case can be made that there is less waste but it begs the question as to whether the shoe made with counters cut from the belly aren't themselves a waste of time and material (presuming other parts of the shoe are cut from better sections of the hide).
As a bespoke maker, I don't think it is in my interests, nor am I philosophically inclined, to embrace that approach.
I have done this work--cutting for whole cut oxfords--and although it is a large piece of leather it is, or ought to be, cut from prime leather. So yes, there is excess to deal with and some of that will be cut off...just as some excess will be trimmed and discarded on a pieced oxford; but one has to ask...what else would you cut from that section of the leather? And is there more waste to cut the whole shoe out of prime or to cut parts of the shoe from the margins?
edited for punctuation and clarity
Edited by DWFII - 5/26/15 at 6:29ampost #15295 of 207535/26/15 at 7:33ampost #15296 of 207535/26/15 at 7:34ampost #15297 of 207535/26/15 at 7:48amQuote:
BTW, its better to use local guys that accept returns before you are certain of your size.post #15298 of 207535/26/15 at 7:50ampost #15299 of 207535/26/15 at 9:30ampost #15300 of 207535/26/15 at 9:32am
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