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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...) - Page 951

post #14251 of 20282
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

   2 boots and 1 shoe all have a T on the tongue . . . . not my initial though

ok mine have the letter t too. must have just been a coincidence biggrin.gif

thanks!
post #14252 of 20282

maybe they're labeling parts for assembly  :rotflmao:

post #14253 of 20282
good god sir, you might have cracked the code!

sogent in imitation game - how they cracked the hungarian mto machine
post #14254 of 20282

What is the reason for the creases on the captoes? Is it because thinner leather stiffeners are used instead of the harder thermoplastic toe stiffeners?

post #14255 of 20282
Quote:
Originally Posted by striker View Post
 

What is the reason for the creases on the captoes? Is it because thinner leather stiffeners are used instead of the harder thermoplastic toe stiffeners?


the toe stiffener is shorter than the cap toe, or teh edge of the stiffener is skived too thin at the end over the toes - makes the toe-cap more comfortable to wear (i.e. no pinching/some give for one's toe-calluses :) ), but perhaps doesn't look as pretty when it wrinkles

post #14256 of 20282

The toe puff that holds the toe in shape, and the stitching of the pattern for the toe cap, have no relation. And if anything, a finely-skived leather toe puff is going to cause less creasing, as there is no thick edge against which the leather can fold.

 

The shoe should crease more or less where the shoe breaks over the ball of your foot.  If that happens to be around the stitching of the toe cap, it's not a problem: only if you don't like it.  In which case, a shoe with a more elongated toe (not necessarily recommended), or a proportionally shorter toe cap in the pattern (aesthetic preferences vary), should mean that the break/creasing falls south of the toe cap stitching.

 

Personally I like a larger toe cap in the pattern; the proportions look nice to me.  Even if that means some of the creasing is within the toe cap area.

post #14257 of 20282
I'd add to what mimo said by observing that to one degree or another, creasing that encroaches on the toe cap or the broguing cannot be easily avoided in a properly fit shoe.

The foot is going to bend the way it is going to bend, there is no changing that. Where the foot bends, the shoe will crease. There is no changing that.

Given that in a correctly fit shoe, the clearance between the end of the toes and the end of the shoe is between 5/8" and 1" (depending on the narrowness of the toe) there is very little of the forepart of the shoe...except the last inch to inch and a half...that is not subject to creasing. And a lot of that depends on the particular foot and the way an individual walks.

If the toe puff is too short the creases tend to develop a little closer to the end of the toe of the shoe. If the puff is too long, the creases will happen regardless...invariably at roughly the same location. But there is the added possibility that the creases will be so coarse that they'll "bite" the toes.

A toe cap acts as a de facto toe stiffener and as such it is subject to all the same strictures as the puff, except that there is an additional aesthetic consideration.

Put the toe cap far forward on the shoe and you may avoid developing a crease in it. But it looks like hell (in my opinion). Move the toe cap back and you're almost certainly going to get creases in it. And you're going to increase the risk of "bite." There is no way to avoid that.

One answer is to extend the toe of the shoe to keep the cap forward but long enough to look good.

Is an extended toe last a good answer? It's hard to say--there are pros and cons. "We report, you decide."

--
edited for punctuation and clarity
Edited by DWFII - 3/11/15 at 5:44am
post #14258 of 20282
Recent arrivals from February Budapest trip.



post #14259 of 20282

^^^ Very nice JP - gotta get me some Vass suede.

 

So a local forumite is setting up a shoe shine / shoe polish and accessory biz, and I gave him a few pairs to buff up for me for the coming spring season.

 

 

Hosting provided by FotoTimeHosting provided by FotoTimeHosting provided by FotoTime 

post #14260 of 20282

Bootyful What last is that RogerP?

post #14261 of 20282

The dub monks are killer K, the triple cognac shortwings are U.

post #14262 of 20282
Ridiculous. Your dub monks are just ridiculous, RogerP. I'm amazed every time I see them.
post #14263 of 20282

K looks great but I heard it is toe crunching? Do you go with a wider width?

post #14264 of 20282

Incoming: F-lasted Burlingtons in light brown suede with rams head medallion and natural edge trim :lurk:

 

 

post #14265 of 20282
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Ridiculous. Your dub monks are just ridiculous, RogerP. I'm amazed every time I see them.

 

Cheers Don - they definitely rank among my faves.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzmenco View Post
 

K looks great but I heard it is toe crunching? Do you go with a wider width?

 

Definitely not for those with chubby or widely-splayed toes.  I have quite slender toes and find K works in the same size and width as U and F for me.  But I would not choose any of my K last pairs if, say, I were wearing the same pair of shoes to the office all day and then well into the evening for an after-work function.  It is a relatively confining toe box, for sure.

 

@Junior - that pair is pure class.

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