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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...) - Page 948

post #14206 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna75 View Post

There are levels of acceptance when it comes buying RTW do to as you mention the variances of owners ankle, leg area...however owning 20+ pairs of boots from 5-7 different makers you do get a feel for what is in range for being a good fit for an RTW...and while I do strive for as perfect of a fit I can get in the lasted area and that always takes centerstage..the shaft area there is a little more forgiveness....however from all the pictures of Vass boots I have seen and with the pair I own ...they seem to fall out of what I would consider acceptable. 

What is the "in range"? People obsess on SF about how wide the facings should be apart at the top of a low quarter oxford. And rightfully so.

But with a boot, suddenly, it doesn't matter? I've seen photographs of boots here, being worn, where the facings on the leg are pulled tight together and it is quite obvious the tops still aren't snug against the leg. And I've seen the reverse...where the owner has pulled the laces tight and the facing's gap is all over the place--an inch wide at the break of the ankle and closed but loose at the top.

It is possible for a bespoke maker to control that gap even while taking into consideration that as the boot/shoe is broken in, the creasing in the ankle will cause the tops to drop down the leg and the fit to change from when it was new.

That uncertainty alone would make fitting the leg of a boots problematic nevermind when no measurements are available (RTW).

But a boot that closes up tight without closing on the leg itself is simply not fit. And the converse is equally true--a boot top with facings so wide that the laces themselves become a comfort problem, is unsightly at best.

Given the nature of RTW, and the absence of a meaningful patterning standard or measurements directly related to the customer, there is probably no answer...it's always going to be an issue of "one size fits all."

And whether it be insteps or boot tops or heel seat widths or toe cramping...IMO, without the "level of acceptance" you cite, RTW is just another blind and rather expensive crap shoot.

But to return to the point, whether it is an oxford or a balmoral oxford or a derby, doesn't make any difference.

--
edited for punctuation and clarity
Edited by DWFII - 3/8/15 at 10:00am
post #14207 of 20259

All the oxford/bal boot fit talk...I nervously await one tomorrow. I went up a half size from my somewhat snug F last shoe, so it could be a thicker sock fit (or end up on the marketplace). The fit of the EG Shannon I have is about perfect, so it has some stiff competition.    

post #14208 of 20259

Can anyone here who owns Vass museum calf shoes comment on how prominent the mottled effect is? I'd like to get some austerity brogues, and I think plum museum calf would be nice, but somehow when I think about austerity brogues I feel like they should be, well, austere, and that anything more than a very subtle mottled effect may disturb that look. Alternatively, I could order them in bordeaux, which also seems to be a nice color. So is oxblood, but I already have Vass shoes in that color, and, in any case, I think Vass oxblood is a bit too dark for an austerity brogue. Cognac could also be a nice option, but I don't know the exact shade, so I'm wondering if it would be too casual. What color would you suggest?

post #14209 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shouldaville View Post
 

All the oxford/bal boot fit talk...I nervously await one tomorrow. I went up a half size from my somewhat snug F last shoe, so it could be a thicker sock fit (or end up on the marketplace). The fit of the EG Shannon I have is about perfect, so it has some stiff competition.    


Fingers crossed for you buddy, but that sounds like the right call.

post #14210 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaze View Post
 

Can anyone here who owns Vass museum calf shoes comment on how prominent the mottled effect is? I'd like to get some austerity brogues, and I think plum museum calf would be nice, but somehow when I think about austerity brogues I feel like they should be, well, austere, and that anything more than a very subtle mottled effect may disturb that look. Alternatively, I could order them in bordeaux, which also seems to be a nice color. So is oxblood, but I already have Vass shoes in that color, and, in any case, I think Vass oxblood is a bit too dark for an austerity brogue. Cognac could also be a nice option, but I don't know the exact shade, so I'm wondering if it would be too casual. What color would you suggest?

 

My museum calf navy austerity brogues are super dark.  Not much mottling visible at all.  I was told this was an unusually dark sample, so there's that. I have no other experience with recent Vass museum - but my older museum gold pair has far more visible mottling.

post #14211 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post
 


Fingers crossed for you buddy, but that sounds like the right call.


Thanks Roger. Nothing too crazy, but regardless, I'll try to swing by and use your stairs for a photo :fonz:

post #14212 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaze View Post

Can anyone here who owns Vass museum calf shoes comment on how prominent the mottled effect is? I'd like to get some austerity brogues, and I think plum museum calf would be nice, but somehow when I think about austerity brogues I feel like they should be, well, austere, and that anything more than a very subtle mottled effect may disturb that look. Alternatively, I could order them in bordeaux, which also seems to be a nice color. So is oxblood, but I already have Vass shoes in that color, and, in any case, I think Vass oxblood is a bit too dark for an austerity brogue. Cognac could also be a nice option, but I don't know the exact shade, so I'm wondering if it would be too casual. What color would you suggest?
Plum museum calf from a 2015 delivery.
post #14213 of 20259

Thanks a lot, RogerP and Swede66!

 

Looks like the effect is quite visible. Not sure I'd go for than in an austerity brogue. Time to consider bordeaux.

post #14214 of 20259
Swede those are insane. Wear them in great health!
post #14215 of 20259
+1 to that. Beautiful.
post #14216 of 20259

Congrats.  Love them.

post #14217 of 20259

Fantastic looking shoes, Swede. 

post #14218 of 20259

Your inputs would be appreciated, gentlemen. Considering the following shoes in oxblood on the U-last (picture is K-last):

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

My only concern is whether I should opt for a straight cap or the v-cap in the picture. I'm afraid that if the medallion isn't 100 % straight and the cap perfectly placed, the v-cap might strenghten the asymmetry between the medallion and cap. Like the left shoe in the picture, where the relation between the medallion and the v-cap seems wonky. Your thoughts? Am I just making this stuff up in my head?

post #14219 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swede66 View Post

Plum museum calf from a 2015 delivery. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

is this the re-delivery?!
post #14220 of 20259
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

is this the re-delivery?!
Nope, they are yet to be received...

And thanx guys for your kind comments.
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