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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...) - Page 871

post #13051 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

I've posted these pics before - shoes are a little over two years old - maybe you just thought they were new. smile.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
orig.jpgorig.jpg 


no wonder they look so great; youre not using vass lasted shoe trees! kidding aside, these look gorgeous
post #13052 of 20235
I was lucky to have had a generic set that fit. Not easy with K last.
post #13053 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by alladin View Post

VRaivio and RogerP - thank you.

RogerP - the shoes look great - are they oxblood?

Cheers. And yes, oxblood. Can't believe I own only one pair in this terrific shade.
post #13054 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Here we go: MTO blue museum calf Norwegian boots in New Peter last with natural welt, metal eyelets, white apron and welt stitching, as well as Dainite soles. I'm still undecided if the natural welt and white apron suit the dark leather well enough. Oh well.

Blue_museum_calf_Norwegian_boots_by_László_Vass_at_Keikari_dot_com by qelsem, on Flickr Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


15665147460_a998431551_c.jpg
 

@VRaivio.  Nice boots.  Could you tell us something  about the soles?.  I see no leather sole on top of Dainite and it seems the rubber sole is really thin.  Was that what you ordered or just Vass standard construcction with Dainite?. Thank you for your answer.

 

@RogerP  please you abstain of showing again those killer monks I am in love with.

post #13055 of 20235
^Now that you mention it, there is no middle layer. I just asked for Dainite soles and mentioned that I'd wear the boots with some smarter trousers in the wintertime. These boots are very light and soft to walk with, which feels strange as Dainite doesn't usually bend as well as slim leather soles.

On another note, does someone know why Vass won't work with coloured linings even on MTO pairs?
post #13056 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Thank you, all. I'll wait and see how this museal calf ages.
Alladin, if memory serves, Vass favours somewhat thicker calf like many British makers. Maybe this explains RogerP's as new-pair, it's great stuff.

That depends. If not mistaken, Vass keeps changing the source of their calf (between annonay and du puy) depending on availability. What I do know is that It's getting harder to source from du puy (which is supposedly softer / suppler but creases more) vs. annonay which is a bit harder (but creases less.) They are both about the same thickness and definitely thicker than Ilcea.

What frustrates me the most however, is that I cannot get navy / green / ruby shells through Vass. Apparently ruby / navy / green are reserved for Carminas. Can't even get these colors from GG. Go figure! These exclusivity, deals, etc is BS! We need more competition and more tanneries...

And you're also absolutely right - Vass needs to have more lining colors!
post #13057 of 20235
^Hopefully this new shell cordovan kid in town will rise to the challenge and help supply MOAR shell soon. Apparently, the British are coming. Then there's always Shinki Hikaku all the way in Japan for you shell needs.

http://howtospendit.ft.com/mens-fashion/6955-plenty-of-horsepower
post #13058 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapasman View Post
 

@VRaivio.  Nice boots.  Could you tell us something  about the soles?.  I see no leather sole on top of Dainite and it seems the rubber sole is really thin.  Was that what you ordered or just Vass standard construcction with Dainite?. Thank you for your answer.

 

@RogerP  please you abstain of showing again those killer monks I am in love with.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

^Now that you mention it, there is no middle layer. I just asked for Dainite soles and mentioned that I'd wear the boots with some smarter trousers in the wintertime. These boots are very light and soft to walk with, which feels strange as Dainite doesn't usually bend as well as slim leather soles.

On another note, does someone know why Vass won't work with coloured linings even on MTO pairs?

 

Dainite soles aren't thicker than that, it's the standard. Single Dainite are just like that from all makers. The reason that they are a bit softer from start than your normal single Dainite soled shoe could be the smaller hollow and cork build up, since it's hand welted and not Goodyear welted.

 

Didn't realise it at first, but they have actually invested in a sole stiching machine! Your pair Ville is the first pair I've seen with full sole stitch, instead of the few hand stitched ones at the toe (awls just break when you try to hand stitch Dainites).

 

They have very few people asking for colored linings, so it's not worth the hastle to start supplying different colors of vegetable tanned lining leathers.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

^Hopefully this new shell cordovan kid in town will rise to the challenge and help supply MOAR shell soon. Apparently, the British are coming. Then there's always Shinki Hikaku all the way in Japan for you shell needs.

http://howtospendit.ft.com/mens-fashion/6955-plenty-of-horsepower

 

Yeah what happened to Joseph Clayton's cordovans? I haven't seen them on anything yet, and they have been supplying it for a couple of years now I believe. Thought the british brands would run to them and start offering it. Maybe the quality isn't that good, or prices too high, don't know.


Edited by j ingevaldsson - 11/23/14 at 3:52am
post #13059 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by agedashidofu View Post

That depends. If not mistaken, Vass keeps changing the source of their calf (between annonay and du puy) depending on availability. What I do know is that It's getting harder to source from du puy (which is supposedly softer / suppler but creases more) vs. annonay which is a bit harder (but creases less.) They are both about the same thickness and definitely thicker than Ilcea.

What frustrates me the most however, is that I cannot get navy / green / ruby shells through Vass. Apparently ruby / navy / green are reserved for Carminas. Can't even get these colors from GG. Go figure! These exclusivity, deals, etc is BS! We need more competition and more tanneries...

And you're also absolutely right - Vass needs to have more lining colors!

I like that ruby, navy and green are for Carmina. Carmina started off as shell experts, it's nice to see some exclusivity.

perhaps it is a good thing that du puy is harder to get - who wants more creases? icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #13060 of 20235
and the current vass color lining is great
post #13061 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by agedashidofu View Post
What frustrates me the most however, is that I cannot get navy / green / ruby shells through Vass. Apparently ruby / navy / green are reserved for Carminas. Can't even get these colors from GG. Go figure! These exclusivity, deals, etc is BS! We need more competition and more tanneries...

 

Probably more significant is that Allen Edmonds have been having a big shell promotion - including blue and green.  No wonder all the talk over the last few months has been of a "shell shortage": when the single largest customer decides to promote a certain, sole-supplier product, in the single largest market, there's going to be a distortion.  I guess Vass's small and foreign requirements just fall lower on the list, and Carmina have perhaps been in the shell business for a little longer, with a little more volume.  They've had their limits too: no shell MTOs from Carmina in recent times, doubtless for the same reason.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

^Hopefully this new shell cordovan kid in town will rise to the challenge and help supply MOAR shell soon. Apparently, the British are coming. Then there's always Shinki Hikaku all the way in Japan for you shell needs.

http://howtospendit.ft.com/mens-fashion/6955-plenty-of-horsepower

 

Interesting article.  Is Shinki the source of Meermin's new shells?

post #13062 of 20235
^Most likely it is. I haven't owned or handled Shinki shell shuus, but I've read that their horse's ass is thinner than Horween's, and not quite as shiny but with more colours. The Japanese shoemakers' thread has many photos if you've the time to read through the whole shebang.

j ingevaldsson, if these Vass Dainite soles are machine-sewn, how do you explain the uneven stitch size and shape? Even St. Crispin's machine-cranked soles have tidy stitches.
post #13063 of 20235

 

Small point of clarification - single MTOs for shell are still available through Carmina - it's the GMTOs for shell that have been suspended.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

  They've had their limits too: no shell MTOs from Carmina in recent times, doubtless for the same reason.

 

 

post #13064 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

^Most likely it is. I haven't owned or handled Shinki shell shuus, but I've read that their horse's ass is thinner than Horween's, and not quite as shiny but with more colours. The Japanese shoemakers' thread has many photos if you've the time to read through the whole shebang.

j ingevaldsson, if these Vass Dainite soles are machine-sewn, how do you explain the uneven stitch size and shape? Even St. Crispin's machine-cranked soles have tidy stitches.

 

Didn't look too close, but yes, those are definitely had stitched. Cool, they must have found a type ow awl that worked for it. Bet those Vass makers wouldn't know how to handle a sole stitching machine, they are hand workers only :)


Edited by j ingevaldsson - 11/23/14 at 5:17am
post #13065 of 20235
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post


j ingevaldsson, if these Vass Dainite soles are machine-sewn, how do you explain the uneven stitch size and shape? Even St. Crispin's machine-cranked soles have tidy stitches.

Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Didn't look too close, but yes, those are definitely had stitched. Cool, they must have found a type ow awl that worked for it. Bet those Vass makers wouldn't know how to handle a sole stitching machine, they are hand workers only smile.gif

Several questions...

Why would a hand awl break while stitching rubber where a machine awl--which is not significantly heavier, if heavier at all--not break?

How is it that a workshop that consists of "hand workers only" is not able to stitch evenly and consistently using tools with which they presumably have years of experience and skill?

Machines actually have a slightly harder time sewing evenly and consistently in rubber simply because the two materials--the leather welt and the rubber outsole--are different densities and different firmness. The rubber is softer, yet two or three times thicker, and it feeds unevenly relative to the leather.

The real problem with hand sewing rubber (Carreducker had a blog entry about this several weeks ago) is that the rubber closes up when the awl is withdrawn and it makes feeding bristles difficult. That said, a hooked hand awl could be used...but then what you end up with is structurally no different than a "machine stitch"...not a shoemaker's stitch, at all.

--
Edited by DWFII - 11/23/14 at 7:17am
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