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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Porn Thread - Page 1020

post #15286 of 15294
That shell sucks. Horween shell won't lighten that much across the rolls
post #15287 of 15294

Sharing this beautiful pair of Alt English.

 

post #15288 of 15294
Yes P2 last best for that style. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Me have it.
post #15289 of 15294
another good measure of shell quality is to see how it responds to moisture and water. when exposed to water, the horween vass uses will slightly rise on the surface but then will subside with both brushing and time. my meermin shell on the other hand will not subside no matter how much time passes or how much i brush the affected area
post #15290 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post
 

They do seamless heels, but not seamless wholecut. 

 

thanks! never thought of that....

 

But if I am to specify seamless heel on wholecut, won't it be the same as seamless wholecut? 

post #15291 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post



@DWFII, are there any downsides to having a seamless heel like the ones shown above?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


None that I know of. I like 'em.

 

Don’t see any downside construction wise, as long as the heels are well supported.

Seamless heels do feel and looks like you’re wearing a pair of bespoke to me.   

 

The only downside I am aware are the costs to Vass and other manufacturers in material

And wastage.  Doing a seamless you’ll most probably be asking for a wholecut oxford

Or Monkstraps, thus the craftsman needs to carefully select a flawless piece of leather,

Ideally free of blemishes and defects.  Any mistakes, it’s back to square one with another

large piece of leather again.   

 

Do an image search on John Lobb: Vale & Saint Crepin 2010 models for the ultimate in

1 piece seamless heel shoes.  Because of Hermes incredible attention to details, the

amount of wastage involved were above average....

post #15292 of 15294
As far as wastage goes, if we are just talking about seamless counters--heel pieces, as in post #15264--there is no wastage to speak of. It is a little harder to last , not be being contoured like the back of the last, but at bottom, no problem
post #15293 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

As far as wastage goes, if we are just talking about seamless counters--heel pieces, as in post #15264--there is no wastage to speak of. It is a little harder to last , not be being contoured like the back of the last, but at bottom, no problem

 

Absolutely @DWFII if it's a seamless counters--heel pieces there is no wastage to speak of.

 

If we're talking about a 1 piece sheet like the JL Chapel, Vale and JL SC2010 model, then the wastage margins can be higher.  Then again, only the ultra skilled craftsman would be selected to work on these.

post #15294 of 15294
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy - Ascot View Post

Absolutely @DWFII
 if it's a seamless counters--heel pieces there is no wastage to speak of.

If we're talking about a 1 piece sheet like the JL Chapel, Vale and JL SC2010 model, then the wastage margins can be higher.  Then again, only the ultra skilled craftsman would be selected to work on these.

Well, I was "corrected" earlier on in this thread to the effect that the discussion was about seamless heels not whole cut oxfords. So I was trying to be somewhat circumspect in my response.

But be that as it may, I think we have to be very careful about using the term "waste." Many (if not all) factories will cut leather into the shoulder and belly...and use every bit of it, despite a certain knowledge that it is all but offal. This is "cutting to maximize yield or efficiency." The case can be made that there is less waste but it begs the question as to whether the shoe made with counters cut from the belly aren't themselves a waste of time and material (presuming other parts of the shoe are cut from better sections of the hide).

As a bespoke maker, I don't think it is in my interests, nor am I philosophically inclined, to embrace that approach.

I have done this work--cutting for whole cut oxfords--and although it is a large piece of leather it is, or ought to be, cut from prime leather. So yes, there is excess to deal with and some of that will be cut off...just as some excess will be trimmed and discarded on a pieced oxford; but one has to ask...what else would you cut from that section of the leather? And is there more waste to cut the whole shoe out of prime or to cut parts of the shoe from the margins?

Mine:



edited for punctuation and clarity
Edited by DWFII - Today at 6:29 am
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