The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

saurabh · Feb 9, 2018

peppercorn78 said:
Yeah, Enzo is masterful at lasting shell. And I understand from several retailers that he does t himself and doesn’t trust it to other workers in his shop. He does charge a bit more though, $1100 vs 760 euros (what I paid for my shell Valway boots last year) so maybe they build a risk buffer into the price of the cordovan upcharge.

Lorenzo told me that the shell Chelsea and jod took some planning, trial and error, and practice to figure out properly.

But yes, it is an amazing achievement.

Perhaps Mr. Vass just doesn’t want to deal with the headache.

budapest12 said:
Yes. It's one thing that it is possible to make the boot. It is another that the maker decides the risk/reward does not make it worth it to them. They decide they won't do it because they don't want to eat losses on the failures.

Thanks for that information @peppercorn78 and EB shell looks damn good.
I do agree with both of you gents that its a big risk and it’s more difficult to make those boots.
Wish EB Instep was lower so I can buy EB HW boots too.
But I am very happy and thankful to Carmina as a maker that they were able to attempt things which no other maker was able to do it for me sometime back and even now they are working on a special project for me.

stephenaf2003 · Feb 9, 2018

It is unfortunate they choose to not produce the boots, this is the Vass thread so I will leave it at that.

Zapasman · Feb 10, 2018

100% of the tall boots posted here are not blocked, just lasted. What about shoes and booties ? I understand it's a matter of possible wastage of more material and/or selecction of hides without colour variation.

peppercorn78 · Feb 10, 2018

Zapasman said:
100% of the tall boots posted here are not blocked, just lasted. What about shoes and booties ? I understand it's a matter of possible wastage of more material and/or selecction of hides without colour variation.

They will make shoes and chukkas out of shell, just not boots.

I wore my bourbon shell Valway the other night. Very glad that I was able to get them when I did.

VRaivio · Feb 10, 2018

...and another pair for this year: dark brown museum calf balmorals with medium gray suede tops. Dainite-soles, undyed welt top, white welt stitching, U-last, gimped edges.

Turns out I was afraid of the U-shape for no reason. It's a very mild square toe, likely among the mildest I've tried, and the narrower shape overall means that it fits us with flatter insteps better than the F-last.

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com02.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com03.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com04.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com05.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com06.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com07.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com08.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com09.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com10.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com11.jpg

MTO_museum_calf_balmoral_oxfords_by_Laszlo_Vass_for_Keikari_dot_com12.jpg

beargonefishing · Feb 10, 2018

VRaivio said:
...and another pair for this year: dark brown museum calf balmorals with medium gray suede tops. Dainite-soles, undyed welt top, white welt stitching, U-last, gimped edges.

Turns out I was afraid of the U-shape for no reason. It's a very mild square toe, likely among the mildest I've tried, and the narrower shape overall means that it fits us with flatter insteps better than the F-last.

My U last are my favorite shoes in my collection. I love the shape.

RogerP · Feb 10, 2018

@VRaivio hot damn that's a slick makeup. Props.

gettoasty · Feb 10, 2018

Same size in F and U?

peppercorn78 · Feb 10, 2018

VRaivio said:
...and another pair for this year: dark brown museum calf balmorals with medium gray suede tops. Dainite-soles, undyed welt top, white welt stitching, U-last, gimped edges.

Turns out I was afraid of the U-shape for no reason. It's a very mild square toe, likely among the mildest I've tried, and the narrower shape overall means that it fits us with flatter insteps better than the F-last.

Lovely pair! I notice you like the natural welt tops on all your makeups. Gives the shoes a nice vintage Florsheim vibe.

I have ogled your black calf oxford boots with natural welt tops many a time...

VRaivio · Feb 10, 2018

RogerP: my thanks!

gettoasty: half a size up in U-last compared to F.

peppercorn: I first found the detail from American vintage shoes, I owned quite a few. A natural welt top (with a dyed edge) makes the welt look more interesting and shows off the welt stitch best. Just my two euro cents.

beargonefishing · Feb 10, 2018

gettoasty said:
Same size in F and U?

Half size up, I have both F and U.

peppercorn78 · Feb 10, 2018

VRaivio said:
RogerP: my thanks!

gettoasty: half a size up in U-last compared to F.

peppercorn: I first found the detail from American vintage shoes, I owned quite a few. A natural welt top (with a dyed edge) makes the welt look more interesting and shows off the welt stitch best. Just my two euro cents.

The workshop must like the look now, because they did my Valway that way without being asked:

stephenaf2003 · Feb 10, 2018

peppercorn78 said:
The workshop must like the look now, because they did my Valway that way without being asked:

View attachment 923279

This very Boot is why I’m so sad Vass no longer does them. I was so close to getting it..

gettoasty · Feb 10, 2018

Thanks guys, would be neat to add some variety. You guys dont find the half size up too long in appearance on foot?

saurabh · Feb 10, 2018

Used some very light layers of Saphir mirror gloss on the toe of the Vass Shell Boots. Very pleased with the result.

The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

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