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My car wouldn't start this morning, please diagnose. - Page 3

post #31 of 38
3/29/06 at 1:30pm
Thread Starter 
Update:
It wasn't the key-security-starter-kill thing. It wasn't the battery as I got a jump from roadside assisstance, it didn't work. I first reported I didn't hear any noise when I turned the key, I was wrong, I was sitting inside with doors and windows closed. There's one click sound when I turned the key and nothing else.

The guy who jumped the car said he's pretty sure it's the starter, the one who towed the car said it could be starter or alternator. The car was towed this morning to the dealer, so I should have an official diagnosis later today or tomorrow.

Thank you all for your help.
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post #32 of 38
3/29/06 at 6:40pm
Thread Starter 
Got a call from the dealer, it's the starter. I guess j owes matadorpoeta a buck.
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post #33 of 38
3/29/06 at 6:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by von Rothbart
Got a call from the dealer, it's the starter. I guess j owes matadorpoeta a buck.
Well, my guess was based on your saying there wasn't a click or clunk when you turned the key, in which case I would have been right, but whatever... send your Paypal, matador.
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post #34 of 38
4/1/06 at 12:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by j
Well, my guess was based on your saying there wasn't a click or clunk when you turned the key, in which case I would have been right, but whatever... send your Paypal, matador.

keep it for now, and we'll go double-or-nothing in the future.
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post #35 of 38
11/5/06 at 4:20pm
i got this problem too. This is this started happened a few weeks after my light control module got damp.

But did your starter motor seem to start taken a little longer to turn over than usual sometimes, like 2 seconds. I hopeing my problem is something simple.
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post #36 of 38
11/6/06 at 2:33am
I bet if he tried cranking the engine several times (as in turn the key to start several times) eventually it would start. His problem is bad Contacts in the starter. Plain and Simple. I have seen it (and repaired it) a million times. Single Clunk means the starter gear is engauging the Flywheel/FlexPlate but not getting enough juice to turn. Hence bad connection between the plunger and the contacts. Take it to a dealer, they will sell you a new starter. Also Little note for those with Fuel Injection cars: Hitting the gas when trying to start will not do a damn thing to help it start. This worked on a carbed car when it is cold because it was allowing the engine to pull in extra fuel &air to help start the combustion. On FI cars the cold start injector is turned on when the engine is cold adding extra fuel, or if it doesnt have a ColdStart Injector the ECU turns on the normal fuel injectors for a longer duration. Holding the throttle open wont do shit.
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post #37 of 38
11/6/06 at 1:58pm
thank you rat boy. just stuck her on the comp (snap-on) and it came up with the fault code

148 immobiliser interface.

Any ideas

Im preying its not a ECU
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post #38 of 38
11/7/06 at 4:16am
something wrong with the factory immobiliser ex. the chip in the key, reciever in the car although from my experiences if the immobiliser is not working the car will crank and crank and crank but will not start because the fuel pump will not turn on. My suggestion Matt is get another key and try that or get your key reprogramed at the Bimmer dealer. Also with a SnapOn OBD comp you kinda over paid unless you bought the BMW software. The generic OBD testers are mostly the same as far as what they tell you (with the exception of ones that have add on carttridges for Gas analysis and for specific makes) they can only tell you the Generic codes no real true detail and no codes that are Make Specific.
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