Tonight was a blind tasting of two cflights of five Syrahs, all '98 or '99 - 8 Hermitage/Côte Rôtie and two Californians, as it turned out. The Rhônes were from Chave, Jamet, Guigal & Tardieu-Laurent, while the Americans were Dehlinger and Arcadian. The most expensive wines - the two Guigal Lalas, fared the worst, and the Dehlinger acquitted itself well. The Jamet Côte-Rôtie stole the show, with the Jaboulet La Chapelle not far behind. And you forget how good Northern Rhônes can be . . .