Sleeve length and general tailoring questions

I've finally decided to update my wardrobe and bought my first sport coat. It's a 38R based on my chest, but I'm pretty fit so there's a lot to be taken in. I took it to the local Mens Wearhouse to have it fitted. The tailor had me put it on and just made a few quick swipes with his chalk. Then, he asked me about sleeve length and when I told him "standard" he folded it up to where my wrist meets my thumb joint and made another chalk swipe. I don't think the alterations have been started yet and now I'm second guessing things. Is that sleeve length a bit too short? I know that you want it to be a little short to show some shirt cuff, but this is primarily going to be worn as a "casual" sport coat with a tee and jeans (and the occasional button-up). Should I go back ask to change the sleeve length? Also, is it normal tailoring practice to merely "eyeball" the alterations like the tailor seems to have done here? Lastly, the shoulders seemed a bit too wide, with the seam extending probably 1/2" past my actual shoulder. He did tap them to check fit, but didn't mark them for alteration. Is it expected that the shoulders will narrow when he takes the sides in? I only paid $40 for the alterations, but it's a Ralph Lauren coat and I'd rather have it tailored once and tailored right.

where the wrist meets the thumb joint? that sounds just a bit long.
40 bucks, for sleeves and sides. thats a bargain.
no the sides being altered will not change the shoulders.
the correct way to measure sleeves? wear the correct dress shirt sleeve length.
then the jacket sleeves are shortened to show a margin of shirt sleeve that you prefer.
you and the tailor may have different ideas as to what "standard" means in the way of fitting.

Originally Posted by a tailor

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where the wrist meets the thumb joint? that sounds just a bit long.
40 bucks, for sleeves and sides. thats a bargain.
no the sides being altered will not change the shoulders.
the correct way to measure sleeves? wear the correct dress shirt sleeve length.
then the jacket sleeves are shortened to show a margin of shirt sleeve that you prefer.
you and the tailor may have different ideas as to what "standard" means in the way of fitting.

When I say "where the wrist meets the thumb joint" I mean where the wrist ends and the meaty thumb/palm area begins. From reading I've found that everyone seems to have a different idea of what "standard" length should be. My question for you and others more knowledgeable than I is whether or not the length I describe is adequate for a sport coat that won't often have a full-length sleeved shirt underneath. Also, I was concerned with the "eyeball and chalk" method used by the tailor during fitting. I was under the impression that a tape measure/pins/checking movement were all part of the fitting process, though never having had anything tailored before, I'm admittedly ignorant. I know the cost of the tailoring is cheap, but if it's not right, then what's the point? Thanks for your reply, though it has done little to ease my concerns...

you might be a 36S or 37S. but the mens wearhouse probably sold you a 38 because they don't carry smaller sizes.

it might not be too late to return it and shop elsewhere for a closer fit off the rack.

That length sounds about right. As for the "eyeball and chalk", that's what all tailors do. It's like carpenters making a quck mark with a pencil before cutting. The issue is not so much the method, as whether the tailor has a good eye. Sounds like you'll be fine.

that point at which you describe is where the shirt sleeve should stop.
the jacket sleeve 1/4" or more shorter than the shirt sleeve.

ChrisF'nSmith, you are a young kid looking for specific answers who hasn't spent time reading up. But I am in a good mood at the moment, so I will provide you specific answers to your questions, some confirming what has been said.

First, without pictures, I have no clue whether your jacket fits. But even if your untrained eye thinks the shoulders are past your actual shoulders, chances are you bought a size too big. Again, can't tell without fit pics (and even that sort of evaluation is not fool proof).

Second, if the blazer is more casual, and you see yourself primarily wearing it with t-shirts, then it probably doesn't matter what your jacket sleeve length is. It's all a matter of preference, but you will see the preference here that people want to show 1/4 - 3/4 inch of shirt cuff. BUt if you are not buying made to measure (MTM) or bespoke shirts, the length of sleeves and the circumference of the shirt cuff will vary depending on brand, and fall at your wrist (or beyond it) at various points. So it is difficult to gauge how long your jacket sleeve should be based on how much cuff to show. With some brands of shirts you may show a whole inch, other brands, not as much.

But based on what the tailor did, he measured it where ideally your shirt sleeve should end. But because most ready to wear (RTW) shirts are too long anyway, chances are you will end up showing some cuff with that. I wouldn't say the jacket is too short, in fact, if you have shirts hitting at the right point, the jacket sleeves might be too long. To him, this is "standard." Even my tailors think trying to show 1/2" inch cuff is too much, or that my bespoke shirts are too short, when I think they end at the wrist where they should.

I, and many people here, can be anal about their measurements to 1/8" of an inch, and for me, I don't like the eyeball measurement. I ask for more specific. But based on your intended use and less discerning eye (for now), the only thing I'd worry about is whether your got a jacket your size, unless you intend to bulk up.

Originally Posted by a tailor

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that point at which you describe is where the shirt sleeve should stop. the jacket sleeve 1/4" or more shorter than the shirt sleeve.
+1000 Most definitely not too short, though of course if all your shirt cuffs come halfway over your hands it may still look that way...

moar.

Your questions will be answered if you simply read.

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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ChrisF'nSmith, you are a young kid looking for specific answers who hasn't spent time reading up. But I am in a good mood at the moment, so I will provide you specific answers to your questions, some confirming what has been said.

First, without pictures, I have no clue whether your jacket fits. But even if your untrained eye thinks the shoulders are past your actual shoulders, chances are you bought a size too big. Again, can't tell without fit pics (and even that sort of evaluation is not fool proof).

Second, if the blazer is more casual, and you see yourself primarily wearing it with t-shirts, then it probably doesn't matter what your jacket sleeve length is. It's all a matter of preference, but you will see the preference here that people want to show 1/4 - 3/4 inch of shirt cuff. BUt if you are not buying made to measure (MTM) or bespoke shirts, the length of sleeves and the circumference of the shirt cuff will vary depending on brand, and fall at your wrist (or beyond it) at various points. So it is difficult to gauge how long your jacket sleeve should be based on how much cuff to show. With some brands of shirts you may show a whole inch, other brands, not as much.

But based on what the tailor did, he measured it where ideally your shirt sleeve should end. But because most ready to wear (RTW) shirts are too long anyway, chances are you will end up showing some cuff with that. I wouldn't say the jacket is too short, in fact, if you have shirts hitting at the right point, the jacket sleeves might be too long. To him, this is "standard." Even my tailors think trying to show 1/2" inch cuff is too much, or that my bespoke shirts are too short, when I think they end at the wrist where they should.

I, and many people here, can be anal about their measurements to 1/8" of an inch, and for me, I don't like the eyeball measurement. I ask for more specific. But based on your intended use and less discerning eye (for now), the only thing I'd worry about is whether your got a jacket your size, unless you intend to bulk up.

Well, I hope I'm still considered a young kid at 27, but the truth is I feel like I'm getting older faster than I'd like, and it's about time my wardrobe caught up. I did, believe it or not, do a lot of reading before I asked my question here. The trouble is (as you stated) I'm asking specific questions, the answers to which apparently can vary a great deal depending on taste. My chest/shoulder measurements are 38/45, which everything I've read tells me that makes my jacket size 38. I think I'll just wait and see how this jacket turns out, and if I'm unhappy with it I will seek out a more reputed tailor. I'll be in NYC next week, perhaps that would be a perfect time to find and be fitted for a second sport coat? At any rate, I really appreciate you and everyone else who has shared their expertise. I'll be the first to admit (though slightly embarrassed) that this is a new and foreign world to me. Hopefully this "green" phase passes quickly. Thanks again to all.

Originally Posted by ChrisEffinSmith

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Also, is it normal tailoring practice to merely "eyeball" the alterations like the tailor seems to have done here?

At Men's Warehouse that is probably normal. Although, frankly, I've had some of my worst alterations done at Saks.

Originally Posted by ChrisEffinSmith

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Well, I hope I'm still considered a young kid at 27, but the truth is I feel like I'm getting older faster than I'd like, and it's about time my wardrobe caught up. I did, believe it or not, do a lot of reading before I asked my question here. The trouble is (as you stated) I'm asking specific questions, the answers to which apparently can vary a great deal depending on taste. My chest/shoulder measurements are 38/45, which everything I've read tells me that makes my jacket size 38. I think I'll just wait and see how this jacket turns out, and if I'm unhappy with it I will seek out a more reputed tailor. I'll be in NYC next week, perhaps that would be a perfect time to find and be fitted for a second sport coat? At any rate, I really appreciate you and everyone else who has shared their expertise. I'll be the first to admit (though slightly embarrassed) that this is a new and foreign world to me. Hopefully this "green" phase passes quickly. Thanks again to all.

For some reason i thought you said you were 17, but I confused that with some other thread, I guess. Don't worry, I've been around here for 2-3 years and I still don't know what I'm talking about.

Originally Posted by ChrisEffinSmith

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. My chest/shoulder measurements are 38/45, which everything I've read tells me that makes my jacket size 38. .

You really need to try things on. I've got jackets +/- one size of "my" size. Some of the larger sized ones are tighter then my normal sized ones.

Originally Posted by ChrisEffinSmith

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Well, I hope I'm still considered a young kid at 27, but the truth is I feel like I'm getting older faster than I'd like, and it's about time my wardrobe caught up. I did, believe it or not, do a lot of reading before I asked my question here. The trouble is (as you stated) I'm asking specific questions, the answers to which apparently can vary a great deal depending on taste. My chest/shoulder measurements are 38/45, which everything I've read tells me that makes my jacket size 38. I think I'll just wait and see how this jacket turns out, and if I'm unhappy with it I will seek out a more reputed tailor. I'll be in NYC next week, perhaps that would be a perfect time to find and be fitted for a second sport coat? At any rate, I really appreciate you and everyone else who has shared their expertise. I'll be the first to admit (though slightly embarrassed) that this is a new and foreign world to me. Hopefully this "green" phase passes quickly. Thanks again to all.

Here is one of your issues. You may very well be a 38, but what does that mean? Not much without measurements, and what I mean by that is of the jackets. Just because the tag says 38 does not mean it will fit, that is just a hopeful starting point. I wear a 38, 39, and 40 depending on the brand and the specific model, suits (and shirts, pants, etc.) can vary a lot in a single tagged size. I've seen suits marked a 38 that have shoulders ranging from 17 (seam to seam) to 19 inches...

Originally Posted by Nicola

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You really need to try things on. I've got jackets +/- one size of "my" size. Some of the larger sized ones are tighter then my normal sized ones.

Exactly.