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A new top ten list of jeans - for Styleforum reborn. - Page 6

post #76 of 204
I believe it's referred to as 'spamming'

I'm surprised he's not banned yet
post #77 of 204
yeah I wonder also
post #78 of 204
Levis, PDC, 7's, Earl, Diesel, etc of which I have pairs and find them all to be good. However, despite the jeans cognoscenti not ever considering them to be jeans, my best jeans in terms of fit, fabric and construction are Kiton, Brioni, Loro Piana, Borrelli, Cavalli, Moschino, etc.
post #79 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD
Here's my list, at least until I can figure out how to move it up to underneath LA Guys. I might have a hard time with this - my list as it came to me in my head was almost identical to LA Guy's. Consider this list to be fairly loosely ordered. It's hard for me to put a 1-10 scale, as I consider most of these jeans to be almost equal in quality level, with the differences among them being subjective preferences. 1. Rag&Bone RB11 - Quite simply, an amazing pair of jeans in every respect, and a price tag to match. The RB11s are a democratic straight-leg, mid-low rise with a trim fit in the thighs and seat; I think it was Village Voice that said "Cut close, but not Euroslim," and that's the best description I've heard. I believe that all RB11's are selvage, but don't quote me on that. The denim is light and easy to wear yet weighs in at 13.75 ounces... an incredibly compact weave, with extreme 3-dimensional texture. The details here are pretty unbelievable. A total of 5 different thread colors run through-out the jeans. Rivets are incredibly high quality and have debossed leaf logos on the back of them. The waistband is covered with a brushed cotton interface, which adds a very nice touch and makes them VERY comfortable. The waistband is cut very well to get a flattering fit around the hips. The inseams run slightly short, so be careful of this, especially when buying online. Sizing on the waist is pretty much spot-on, but like all lower rises, the measurements show a slight increase over the tag size. Right now they're running $275 - $325. 2. 5EP Low Down Bootcut in Resin Wash - This works, since LA Guy put the Straight Down on his. The LDB is a skinny fit, with a slightly lower rise than the Straight Down, but is still considered a middle or higher rise jean. The details here are impeccable: hidden rivets in the seat, no-scratch rivets on the pockets (including a nicely done Wrangler-style coin pocket), a seriously awesome yet simple selvage seam (one of the few that I'd really like to show off), and tons of other stuff I can't bother to list. The fit is great - fitted in the thighs, with a pretty much perfect bootcut - subtle yet flattering. The color is my favorite part. I saw mine cycle from an almost black blue, to a deep purple, to a light turquoise, and to a light yellow where the most wear had occured. Sizing on the waist is about one size big. Inseams are spot-on. One-wash is $279. 3. Helmut Lang Classic Fit in Raw - The classic pair of close-fitting stovepipe designer jeans, that wear into beautiful grey blue. While the denim isn't anything to necessarily run home about (comparing to the two above on the list), they're worlds beyond most of what else is out there on the shelves, especially from other European designers. The details are not spectacular, but this is part of the appeal of these minimalist jeans. It might be quite a task to find these jeans these days, but I'm keeping them on the list regardless, because they are around for SS/06, and will probably on eBay for some time. Sizing is pretty true. I think they're around $200. 4. Eternal 811, Studio D'Artisan SD-103 - Slim straight-leg Levis-based jeans from Japan. In many respects these two jeans are very similar, so they're occupying the same spot on my list. The main difference between the two is that while the Studio D'Artisans have a little more of a true blue fade and are rope-dyed, the Eternals have a slightly green-casted fade, which has made them famous. The fit is slim, though not painted-on-tight, and the rise is middle-low. As expected from a Japanese company, the denim is superlative. They're very starchy and stiff, and thus will fade quicker than the more Americanized jeans listed above. Depending on how you get them, they can vary in price, but the mean is about $250. 5. Nudie Thin Finn - New York Dolls and other 70s rock & roll fashionista style has really penetrated the market recently, and with the multitude of skinny jeans available, one pair really stands as king. Nudie Thin Finns have a skinny fit down to the ankles, yet with a masculine, classic Levi's 606 appeal instead of effeminite and nut-hugging. If you're going for a skinny jean, this is the pair, though be aware of the garish back pocket design (easy to remove if you're not a fan). Nudie construction and denim quality is always great at this price point and the tightness of these jeans will produce some intense whiskering. Priced at around $160. 6. 45rpm Jomon - Yea, well I knew our lists would be similar. Jomon is the newest model from 45rpm, and has a slimmer fit than the Sorahiko and Aihiko, though the rise is still high and the seat is a bit loose. They definitely have a classic 501-style fit, though what seperates them is the amazing color and denim that they use. Apparently they slow down the looms tremendously to produce the Jomons, which results in a more textured denim and increased production time (and price). They're rope-dyed by hand with natural indigo, and produce an unbelievably deep color. Details are superlative, as would be expected. As a work of art, these jeans are bar-none - but works of art are never cheap. These jeans cost a staggering $900. 7. APC New Standards / Rescues - Of course they had to come on here. Despite problems with ridiculous sizing, these jeans still sit on the throne for entry-level unwashed denim. The fits are basic and democratic, and the lack of embellishment makes them attractive to a lot of people who don't feel comfortable with fancy pocket stitching or extra rivets. The main difference between the two is that the Standards are slightly tapered, have a slightly lower rise and are a little bit slimmer, while the Rescues are straight-leg (don't believe the lies, they do NOT have a bootcut). They're both $140 right now. Okay, that's it for me. I'm already tired from just writing 7.
can i add sugarcane 45s for a top of the line lee repro? amazing slim fitting jeans in a beautiful lefthand denim..... none of the levis anti fit and low price(for japanese denim) makes this my pick for a starter jean. oh.... 1 cm slimmer thru the entire leg than SC 47s, with about a 1cm taper from knee to hem
post #80 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapmutha
can i add sugarcane 45s for a top of the line lee repro? amazing slim fitting jeans in a beautiful lefthand denim..... none of the levis anti fit and low price(for japanese denim) makes this my pick for a starter jean. oh.... 1 cm slimmer thru the entire leg than SC 47s, with about a 1cm taper from knee to hem

I'm interested in thoose 45's. Could you posssibly measure the rise on yours as i was concerned the rise is very low
post #81 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by modual
I'm interested in thoose 45's. Could you posssibly measure the rise on yours as i was concerned the rise is very low
ill try to remember to do it tonight, but im thinking it is 11" or so. not low rise at all, since it is a 1945 reproduction.
post #82 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapmutha
ill try to remember to do it tonight, but im thinking it is 11" or so. not low rise at all, since it is a 1945 reproduction.

Thanks alot. Are they a lee 101z repro but with button fly ?
post #83 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by modual
Thanks alot. Are they a lee 101z repro but with button fly ?
they are a 101b repro... 1 year after lee adopted the "lazy s" back pocket stitch. not an exact repro, as they are not sanforized. the legs have twisted 90 degrees on me. id definatly get the one wash over the raw(im not even sure if they sell a raw version)
post #84 of 204
I wanted to add that the Ironhearts will not hold you up while you sleep and that they are very soft for the weight and are made with Zimbabwe cotton.

I have a pair with the sterling silver rivets. Actually wore them twice this summer (in Cali) as an experiment and they tend to breath pretty good, they weren't too hot. I wore them in the rainy season and was still kind of chilled to the bone.
post #85 of 204
I was wondering if LA guy and Brian still stand by their lists. Or have they changed these days?
post #86 of 204
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by denimaddict
I was wondering if LA guy and Brian still stand by their lists. Or have they changed these days?

Most of mine is still the same, but I have made some adjustments and changes. I'll post a new list this weekend.
post #87 of 204
dont forget sd-103,
post #88 of 204
i have to say the Pure Blue Japan XX-005 is my current favorite right now (and i've looked at a ton of jeans recently). it really is a great jean, and i think it will be a classic soon. low-rise, slim leg, made with super-slubby PBJ denim. if you can fit in them, they WILL look great on you.

unlike other japanese repros, these jeans look great "out the box," meaning you don't need to wear them in for them to look fantastic--although, they do look great distressed as well.

i'm sure many people who've bought this jean will agree. it seems to have a very high customer satisfaction rate.

although, you can group the XX-005 with the eternal 811 and the SDA SD-103, the rise is much lower and the leg is a smidgen slimmer--PLUS, it breaks higher up on the knee so it looks great even if you're not 6'1" and above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD
As expected from a Japanese company, the denim is superlative. They're very starchy and stiff, and thus will fade quicker than the more Americanized jeans listed above. Depending on how you get them, they can vary in price, but the mean is about $250.

I think another reason why Japanese jeans tend to fade quicker than American jeans is because Japanese jeans use pure indigo--meaning, they don't use any sulfer bottoming, or other chemicals to keep the color dark. American jeans tend to use various methods to keep the color on the fabric.
post #89 of 204
Thread Starter 
I have to go to B.I.G. and look at their stuff before I can redo my list. I want to put a repro, maybe 2, on the list, a 47 and possibly a Samurai "modernized" repro, but I haven't really seen or tried on enough models recently to say anything reasonably informed. (FWIW, Boston sucketh for denim. LA and NYC are much better.) About 6 or so of the list are set in stone. Anyway, I will post soon. Just need more info.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mizanation
i have to say the Pure Blue Japan XX-005 is my current favorite right now (and i've looked at a ton of jeans recently). it really is a great jean, and i think it will be a classic soon. low-rise, slim leg, made with super-slubby PBJ denim. if you can fit in them, they WILL look great on you.

unlike other japanese repros, these jeans look great "out the box," meaning you don't need to wear them in for them to look fantastic--although, they do look great distressed as well.

i'm sure many people who've bought this jean will agree. it seems to have a very high customer satisfaction rate.
post #90 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by mizanation
i have to say the Pure Blue Japan XX-005 is my current favorite right now (and i've looked at a ton of jeans recently). it really is a great jean, and i think it will be a classic soon. low-rise, slim leg, made with super-slubby PBJ denim. if you can fit in them, they WILL look great on you.

unlike other japanese repros, these jeans look great "out the box," meaning you don't need to wear them in for them to look fantastic--although, they do look great distressed as well.

i'm sure many people who've bought this jean will agree. it seems to have a very high customer satisfaction rate.

although, you can group the XX-005 with the eternal 811 and the SDA SD-103, the rise is much lower and the leg is a smidgen slimmer--PLUS, it breaks higher up on the knee so it looks great even if you're not 6'1" and above.

Cosigned. I love my pair.
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