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J&M vs. C&J: A wingtip comparison

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks to Ken Pollock, I was able to acquire a pair of the J&M handmades, a brown wingtip. A truly beautiful shoe. I was comparing the J&Ms to the antique chestnut cliffords I purchased recently, and they really offer an interesting contrast in style for what is essentially the same "style" shoe. The 337 last is much more elongated at the toe, which gives the shoe a sleeker look. But the J&M is really just exquisite. Much more substantial shoe, and I think the medallion puts the C&J design to shame. I also noticed the J&M has some differentiation in the style/size of the broguing along the laces as compared to the rest of the shoe.

I don't want to say the differences come down to simply American vs. English, but perhaps it really is that simple. And I really can't see much of a difference in craftsmanship, but I'm certainly no expert.
post #2 of 19
Pictures would greatly elucidate your points
post #3 of 19
I have those exact same J&M's and they're fabulous. Where did you get yours? Take care of them: they're a lost treasure, as you know.
post #4 of 19
Do all wingtips have medallions?
post #5 of 19
No but they usually do.
post #6 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augusto86
Do all wingtips have medallions?
Those that don't are sometimes called "austerity brogues." They are not common. See below.

http://www.allenedmonds.com/webapp/w...00&imageType=2

And they can be even more "austere" than that!
post #7 of 19
The EG Beaulieu is another example of an austerity brogue. There is actually no broguing.
post #8 of 19
PhiloVance and Teacher: If you love vintage J&Ms, there's a pair of burgundy shell cordovan storm-welted blucher longwings on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Johnston...QQcmdZViewItem

They're certainly used, but are hardy-looking puppies.
post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoopee
The EG Beaulieu is another example of an austerity brogue. There is actually no broguing.

The C&J handgrade Tavistock is also an austerity brgoue and quite similar to the Beaulieu.
post #10 of 19
Thanks, Roger. I did see those, but I may not bite. (Price certainly is right, though!)
post #11 of 19
Thread Starter 
Roger, Thanks for the pic! Yes, those J&Ms look sturdy. What exactly is the name of that style of wingtip, where the wing broguing actually runs the entire length of the shoe to the back ?
post #12 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teacher
I have those exact same J&M's and they're fabulous. Where did you get yours? Take care of them: they're a lost treasure, as you know.

Mr. Pollock was kind enough to sell me a pair. They are really something else, I'm really wondering if they should even be worn.
post #13 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiloVance
Roger, Thanks for the pic! Yes, those J&Ms look sturdy. What exactly is the name of that style of wingtip, where the wing broguing actually runs the entire length of the shoe to the back ?

It's generally called a "long wing," though I think the British sometimes call it an "imperial brogue" or something like that.
post #14 of 19
Royal brogue.
post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiloVance
Roger, Thanks for the pic! Yes, those J&Ms look sturdy. What exactly is the name of that style of wingtip, where the wing broguing actually runs the entire length of the shoe to the back ?
That style is referred to as "longwing." You know, I've never seen a balmoral longwing, only bluchers. Teacher, you've seen more shoes than any 100 men--have you ever seen a balmoral longwing?
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