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Show us your Chan - Page 52

post #766 of 779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limniscate View Post

The gorge height was on purpose. How much do you think it should be lowered? How should I change the cut? These suits are for business, and I'm in a fairly conservative field (law).

The gorge is a matter of personal taste. So it is up to you. Regarding the trousers you should simply ask Patrick about the saggy back and it he can fix it with These trousers or if it would get better e.g. with flat front trousers.
post #767 of 779
Had my first fitting today at the trunk show in DC. Very nice experience. I ordered a 2 button suit, birdseye 110s in grey as my first with them.
post #768 of 779
Hi, does anyone know how long and how much a tailored shirt from chan will cost? Got a few days in HK coming up and would like to know.

Thanks
post #769 of 779
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcideneb View Post

Hi, does anyone know how long and how much a tailored shirt from chan will cost? Got a few days in HK coming up and would like to know.

Thanks

Bump

I will be meeting with them in July for the first time since 2009 and am frightened to see how high prices have climbed.
post #770 of 779
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxnharry View Post

Bump

I will be meeting with them in July for the first time since 2009 and am frightened to see how high prices have climbed.

I can't comment on shirt pricing, but for tailored items, count on about a 40% to 50% price increase.
post #771 of 779
Wow-that should be interesting. Thanks
post #772 of 779
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcideneb View Post

Hi, does anyone know how long and how much a tailored shirt from chan will cost? Got a few days in HK coming up and would like to know.

Thanks

Expect something around HKD 1500 to 1600 for a shirt from a 100s cotton fabric and unfused collar. With a fused collar it should be a wee bit cheaper.
post #773 of 779
So, I've been a Chan customer for a long time and at a recent fitting with @Limniscate, we decided to alter my existing suits. Partially to do standard things like letting them out a bit.. but mostly because I have pretty straight shoulders and we decided to just remove all the padding in my shoulders all together. We also tried to even out my sides a bit since, when buttoned, there was some pulling due to one of my shoulders being higher than the other.

I got them back and changed jobs where I don't wear jackets much anymore. I'm pretty satisfied with the trouser fit, or at least it is making progress and am thinking of using MyTailor to copy them for inexpensive cotton trousers.. The jacket has gotten much worse with the sleeve pitch being all fucked up and the back being very sloppy, and the asymmetry in my shoulders being very accentuated. I've emailed these pictures to Chan to see how they intend to fix it - and I don't want to wait till November when they are next in town, especially since I have a Carlo Barbera SC on the way from them, but am curious as to what y'all think. Pictures in different light etc after the break, I've also posted pics of fits from Chan earlier in this thread - check them out for context. Fabric is Dugdale.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







post #774 of 779
Back needs to be cleaned up across the board, especially the jacked seems very tight in the waist and the bunching between the shoulder blades looks bad.

Sleeves should be shortened a bit. I am not seeing a major sleeve pitch issue to be honest (am I missing something)...
post #775 of 779

The line of your shoulder isn't too square to cause problems. The issue is your very prominent shoulder blade on the left side. This requires more attention when making the left shoulder to work in more fullness to cover the blade. The right shoulder is low but in a different way. You are not only low at the shoulder point  (where the shoulder meets sleeve) you are low at the neck point as well. Shoulder needs to be adjusted at the neck. What you really need is more length added at the shoulder on the left side.

Just diagnosed this in the tailor fit thread for someone else.

 

When you unbutton the jacket does the button on the right front drop lower than the buttonhole on the left front? 

post #776 of 779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The line of your shoulder isn't too square to cause problems. The issue is your very prominent shoulder blade on the left side. This requires more attention when making the left shoulder to work in more fullness to cover the blade. The right shoulder is low but in a different way. You are not only low at the shoulder point  (where the shoulder meets sleeve) you are low at the neck point as well. Shoulder needs to be adjusted at the neck. What you really need is more length added at the shoulder on the left side.
Just diagnosed this in the tailor fit thread for someone else.

When you unbutton the jacket does the button on the right front drop lower than the buttonhole on the left front? 

Thanks for the reply! FYI Chris I was the guy who called you in Dallas the other day to schedule an appointment - I'll probably wait till things clear up for you towards the end of the year. Just moved out to Dallas about 2 months ago.

I'm seeing Patrick from Chan next week in Washington DC, flying out their specifically to get this fixed. I will take a picture when I get home, but the uneveness of the button/buttonhole was one of the problems we were trying to fix out the gate - there was some tugging there due to that. I believe it's more or less fixed but will double check tonight.

What should I ask Patrick to do in my meeting next week?

For convenience here are the pics of the jacket pre-alteration when I first got it. If anything, I am slimmer than I was when I received these. The trousers have gotten better and the jacket worse..




post #777 of 779
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexE View Post

Back needs to be cleaned up across the board, especially the jacked seems very tight in the waist and the bunching between the shoulder blades looks bad.

Sleeves should be shortened a bit. I am not seeing a major sleeve pitch issue to be honest (am I missing something)...

Maybe those pictures don't really show what I was seeing.. here's one that I took before those pictures. Basically, my expectation is that the sleeve would lay flat but it has this big wrinkle at the elbow. It seems more pronounced than before. This fabric is a lightweight dugdale so it wrinkles somewhat easier than my other suits.

post #778 of 779
 

Maybe those pictures don't really show what I was seeing.. here's one that I took before those pictures. Basically, my expectation is that the sleeve would lay flat but it has this big wrinkle at the elbow. It seems more pronounced than before. This fabric is a lightweight dugdale so it wrinkles somewhat easier than my other suits.

 
This is caused by the sleeve being set to far to the back. You know all the pictures showing masses of wrinkles on the back of sleeves and everyone says the sleeve needs to be rotated? This is the same problem but in the opposite way.
This wrinkle on the front is when the sleeve is rotated too much to the back and the front of the sleeve presses in against the arm and creates the wrinkle at the elbow. That's why the back of your sleeves hang so clean.
Sleeve needs to be set a bit forward
post #779 of 779
Thanks everyone, especially Despos - for the advice. My meeting with Chan went well, they keyed in on the sleeve rotation immediately and are also letting out the sides a little bit. There was some other issue with the collar that they said was part of the problem - this is not a surprise because it has always been an issue on every jacket I've had.

I did get a delivery of a new SC from the Harrisons Carlo Barbera book and SW Solaro trousers. From the photos I sent them they really did a great job fixing it on the new jacket.. it seems pretty solid. Pics to come.

BTW the Carlo Barbera book is the shit, I love it.
Edited by Jsoftz - 7/27/15 at 8:58am
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