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Show us your Chan - Page 42

post #616 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

Thanks C. No, funny story about those pants. Don't know the brand name. Bought them at a low-end vintage store in DC, maybe seven years ago, had the legs tapered, and then did the cuffs myself (1 7/8", but looking skimpy in the pic imo). They have a fresco-like weave and are very cool and comfortable. I thought they were wool but they were once washed on accident and they came out perfectly. So now I think they may have some kind of artificial blend. Really comfortable in any case and looks/feels like plain wool.

Ha! Would not have guessed that.
post #617 of 628
emptym thanks for your advice on the fabrics. i do love the minnis flannels and hope to get smoe more of them. i have yet to choose a fimmeresco suit, but on chans last london trip i was considering a grey 0-10 fresco ii 0511 for a summer/spring suit..

i may be after more advice when decision time comes for lighter suit and for a dj and trousers.thanks!
post #618 of 628
has anyone tried having more casual trousers made up? i have a selection of light - darker grey odd flannel trousers to wear with blazers, but i'm curious to have something slightly more casual made up (no crease, flannel in grey or blue, perhaps more casual back pockets, etc). i would wear them with blazers and button down shirts, maybe EG jackets...but unsure what kind of spec to get on the trousers (pockets, cuffs?, etc). they would be an alternative to jeans or chinos.

i guess something like the below could work? although it may look strange to have the below type trousers on with a blazer? perhaps i need to make something more simple? any ideas much appreciated!

https://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/1068/navy-uniform-serge-irving-pant
post #619 of 628
Hi guys,

Chan will be in town in December, and I'm interested in having a tweed sport coat made for myself, and I have a few questions. First, what would I be looking for in terms of fabric? Price is not really a concern here, I'm looking to buy quality. Should I be going for Harris Tweed, or is there a more refined choice that I should be looking at? What about Donegal (I'm not quite familiar with all of the terminology here either)? In terms of color, I'm looking for versatility primarily, so I guess a grayish or brownish color--I have enough navy jackets already. Suggestions for specific fabrics that Chan keeps in stock would be very much appreciated.

As for construction, I'm probably going to get a two button, notch-lapel with a patch pocket. I have an unlined jacket Chan that fits me very well, so I'm considering ordering this sport coat unlined as well. Considering that I will probably wearing an undershirt, dress shirt, and probably a sweater while I'm wearing this jacket, would the lining still be necessary? In the coldest New York weather, I'll probably be wearing an overcoat.

I really appreciate the advice of a seasoned Chan customer. Thank you for the help!
post #620 of 628
Lovelux2010, I don't think I'd wear pants like that w/ a blazer. Seems like a bit of overkill to go w/ Chan for something like that too. I'd go w/ rtw or Luxire.

Chicagobred, I have four Chan tweed coats, two Breanish and two W. Bill. Love all four. I think there are pics of them all here somewhere.

Here's a recent closeup of the green W Bill, w/ a new Conrad Wu tie I'm really enjoying:
AppleMark
Don't think I've ever posted a pic of the Minnis 0502 coat here. Blurry, but hopefully better than nothing:
AppleMark
The pants are by Luxire.
post #621 of 628

I finally received my suit from Chan.  This is my first tailor made suit.  

 

They look flat and lacking the lapel roll that I normally see here (Like emptym's blue SC).  

 

Should I send this to a tailor for pressing?  

 

Thanks.

post #622 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicagobred View Post

Hi guys,

Chan will be in town in December, and I'm interested in having a tweed sport coat made for myself, and I have a few questions. First, what would I be looking for in terms of fabric? Price is not really a concern here, I'm looking to buy quality. Should I be going for Harris Tweed, or is there a more refined choice that I should be looking at? What about Donegal (I'm not quite familiar with all of the terminology here either)? In terms of color, I'm looking for versatility primarily, so I guess a grayish or brownish color--I have enough navy jackets already. Suggestions for specific fabrics that Chan keeps in stock would be very much appreciated.

As for construction, I'm probably going to get a two button, notch-lapel with a patch pocket. I have an unlined jacket Chan that fits me very well, so I'm considering ordering this sport coat unlined as well. Considering that I will probably wearing an undershirt, dress shirt, and probably a sweater while I'm wearing this jacket, would the lining still be necessary? In the coldest New York weather, I'll probably be wearing an overcoat.

I really appreciate the advice of a seasoned Chan customer. Thank you for the help!

Well, the first thing I would do would be to decide what fabric weight you want. Tweeds can be had in weights from about 360 grams to 700 grams and more although I don't know whether Patrick regularly has swatch books containing tweeds heavier than 560 grams, which is the heaviest I have bought from them. (I have seven tweed jackets from Chan.)

I would suggest you go to the Harrison's of Edinburgh website and look at the collections of tweeds under the Porter & Harding brand. If you see something you really like, just jot down the number. Whether or not Patrick has the swatch book with him, he can easily give you a price if you know the fabric number, and you can proceed with the measuring and ordering as usual.

As to the various tweeds, I would suggest you pass on the Harris tweeds unless you really like their rough, rustic, "hairy monster" appearance. Shetland tweeds are very nice in the lighter weights. I like Donegal tweeds in any fabric weight. Among heavier fabrics, I like my jacket made from P&H Hartwist tweed very much. It is the aforementioned 560 gram fabric.

Aside from Porter & Harding (Harrison's), W. Bill tweeds have been mentioned. For some odd reason, Chan charged way more for W. Bill tweeds than for competitive tweeds in past years, but I believe they have rectified this practice of late. John G. Hardy tweeds are probably good. I have no experience with them, but I am very fond of a jacket made from their Worsted Alsport (a sort of faux tweed).

Whatever jacket you decide on, get it lined. Unlined jackets are for summer wear. As to patch pockets, remember that they increase your apparent width, especially with a bulky fabric like tweed. If you are very lean, this may be fine. Otherwise, you might prefer welted pockets.
post #623 of 628
Posted some jackets upthread with my usual configuration - unpadded and short. Thought I would post one with their traditional Chan house style - longer jacket, structured shoulder. Cloth is Porter & Harding Glenroyal tweed (pardon the crease on the chest left; jacket was buried in a suitcase)

chan2_zps1014b17b.jpg

chan1_zps812e6fde.jpg

A couple of the shorter/unpadded ones for comparison
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

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7112012.jpg

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post #624 of 628
Very nice! I like the longer version on you better, is much more balance given your height.
post #625 of 628
Thanks tchoy. I know the longer one is more traditionally correct but I enjoy wearing a shorter jacket, as a matter of personal preference.
post #626 of 628
I like the shoulder and wider lapel of the casual jackets, but the configuration and length of the traditional jacket.
post #627 of 628
I'm based in Hong Kong, and recently commissioned a blazer from WW Chan. Not knowing any better, I didn't specify that I wanted to work with Patrick, and so I have been working with Dik Lam instead.

Dropped by the other day for my first fitting (which was not basted, for some reason), and was reasonably satisfied with what I got.

But having read all of the positive opinions about Patrick on this thread, I'm wondering: for my next commission, should I ask for Patrick instead?
post #628 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by nihraguk View Post

I'm based in Hong Kong, and recently commissioned a blazer from WW Chan. Not knowing any better, I didn't specify that I wanted to work with Patrick, and so I have been working with Dik Lam instead.

Dropped by the other day for my first fitting (which was not basted, for some reason), and was reasonably satisfied with what I got.

But having read all of the positive opinions about Patrick on this thread, I'm wondering: for my next commission, should I ask for Patrick instead?

Depends on what you want and if the other guy can do it. I like Patrick because he's worked with a ton of SF posters in the past and is generally familiar with the terms/concepts discussed here, so it's easy to communicate my preferences.
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