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Show us your Chan - Page 37

post #541 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

Best of luck. In addition to shoulders, I would have a sense of what you want for length and button config as I've seen varying results from Chan on those parameters.

Just one general note in praise of Chan: they are extremely consistent. I've ordered 9 jackets on my current pattern, never with fittings, and with one small exception all are spot on identical in all key aspects - front/back balance, shoulder line and width, sleeve pitch, chest shape, waist suppression, lapels, length, quarters, and buttoning point. The one exception is a light grey suit I ordered that has slightly more closed quarters than the others. Whatever method they use for patterning/cutting is remarkably precise. I've been tempted to try out other tailors but can't be bothered with the hassle of the tailoring process. I've assembled a pretty good collection of cloth swatches at home, so ordering a new suit is as simple as emailing them a cloth number, specifying lining and button colors, confirming credit card details, and waiting 2 months.

I've found Chan fairly consistent on the big points but often with small variations that require correction. I've had pants cut a bit large or long, slight differences in the openness of quarters, and once a fair amount of extra padding added to a jacket's shoulders. Having said that, I think being in HK leads to a better and more consistent product, and I try to do fittings whenever possible. For a DB, I would definitely want to do fittings.
post #542 of 707
You mean they've even nailed down your sleeve length so exact? Are the sleeve buttons punched, too, or do you not get working buttonholes, in the event you need a sleeve lengthened/shortened?
post #543 of 707
Mr Pink - maybe I've just been (extraordinarily) lucky or maybe my pattern is more conducive to reproduction. Also I don't have the shoulder padding variable to worry about.

Dan'l - yes, the sleeves are as exact as everything else, and have working buttonholes.
post #544 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

Mr Pink - maybe I've just been (extraordinarily) lucky or maybe my pattern is more conducive to reproduction. Also I don't have the shoulder padding variable to worry about.

I imagine I have been unlucky. The suit with the extra padding also arrived with pants on which the left side had forward pleats as ordered while the right had reverse pleats. Certainly the worst mistake I've had from Chan--but one they corrected without quibble.
post #545 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

I imagine I have been unlucky. The suit with the extra padding also arrived with pants on which the left side had forward pleats as ordered while the right had reverse pleats. Certainly the worst mistake I've had from Chan--but one they corrected without quibble.

That's an interesting screw-up. Hope you grabbed a picture of yourself in it. They paid for return?
post #546 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Touching Cloth View Post

Very nice. I like and will be using as reference.
Separate question, does one normally attend these hotel fittings alone, or would it not be unusual to bring along a lady friend, for example, as a second set of eyes?

My wife has accompanied me at several occasions and also had a business suit (with fittings in Hong Kong) and several shirts made. I would disagree with an earlier comment that the W.W. Chan ladies department is not good in getting business suits / shirts for women right - those of my wife look perfect and hold out very well!
post #547 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

That's an interesting screw-up. Hope you grabbed a picture of yourself in it. They paid for return?

Forgot to take pictures, and they did not pay for my cost to post the pants to them. I felt they should have but it wasn't worth the argument.
post #548 of 707

I'm seeing Patrick next week in New York to get my first Chan commission.  I emailed them about Lesser fabric, specifically the 8/9oz tropical weight. They replied that they don't carry that book but carry 9.5/10oz super 120's bunch, 11/12oz and 13oz.  Does anybody have an idea why they might not carry that one specific book?

 

I had my heart set on that fabric given the positive reviews found here on SF combined with my tendency to run warm.

 

Any other fabric suggestions for a workhorse tropical weight suit? Other than Minnis Fresco (which I am currently having made up by NSM).

post #549 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digger CT View Post

I'm seeing Patrick next week in New York to get my first Chan commission.  I emailed them about Lesser fabric, specifically the 8/9oz tropical weight. They replied that they don't carry that book but carry 9.5/10oz super 120's bunch, 11/12oz and 13oz.  Does anybody have an idea why they might not carry that one specific book?

I had my heart set on that fabric given the positive reviews found here on SF combined with my tendency to run warm.

Any other fabric suggestions for a workhorse tropical weight suit? Other than Minnis Fresco (which I am currently having made up by NSM).

if you know the fabric and the serial I am sure Chan will be able to order it in for you. It's probably impossible for them carry too many books when they are travelling. Their cloth selection in store is pretty impressive,
post #550 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digger CT View Post

I'm seeing Patrick next week in New York to get my first Chan commission.  I emailed them about Lesser fabric, specifically the 8/9oz tropical weight. They replied that they don't carry that book but carry 9.5/10oz super 120's bunch, 11/12oz and 13oz.  Does anybody have an idea why they might not carry that one specific book?

I had my heart set on that fabric given the positive reviews found here on SF combined with my tendency to run warm.

Any other fabric suggestions for a workhorse tropical weight suit? Other than Minnis Fresco (which I am currently having made up by NSM).

Patrick is rather high on Harrison's Frontier. Although it's a 300g fabric, it's quite an open weave, and I have worn it with reasonable comfort in extremely hot weather (100F). VBC Super 140 is also a nice summer fabric and less expensive than most of Chan's other options.
post #551 of 707
I read some negative comments regarding Frontier in the "Unfunded Liabilities" thread (i.e. lifeless, limp). I wonder what explains the differences in opinion? Or does it really just come down to personal preference?
post #552 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digger CT View Post

I'm seeing Patrick next week in New York to get my first Chan commission.  I emailed them about Lesser fabric, specifically the 8/9oz tropical weight. They replied that they don't carry that book but carry 9.5/10oz super 120's bunch, 11/12oz and 13oz.  Does anybody have an idea why they might not carry that one specific book?

I had my heart set on that fabric given the positive reviews found here on SF combined with my tendency to run warm.

Any other fabric suggestions for a workhorse tropical weight suit? Other than Minnis Fresco (which I am currently having made up by NSM).

They have the book at their store in Hong Kong. I looked at it in January when I was there. And Chan will get fabric from any merchant they deal with. If you really want the Lesser tropical, you could have Harrison's send you a swatches to pick from then tell Chan what you want.
post #553 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

I read some negative comments regarding Frontier in the "Unfunded Liabilities" thread (i.e. lifeless, limp). I wonder what explains the differences in opinion? Or does it really just come down to personal preference?

Well, I have two suits from Harrison's Frontier, and I find them perfectly satisfactory, but maybe I'm just easily satisfied. If Frontier is "lifeless," what, then, would constitute a "lively" fabric?
post #554 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Pink View Post

They have the book at their store in Hong Kong. I looked at it in January when I was there. And Chan will get fabric from any merchant they deal with. If you really want the Lesser tropical, you could have Harrison's send you a swatches to pick from then tell Chan what you want.

Given the tight time constraints Digger CT is operating under, wouldn't it be much quicker and easier for him to visit Harrisons of Edinburgh's website and jot down the number of the fabric from the Lesser #306 collection that appeals most to him?
post #555 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLibourel View Post

Given the tight time constraints Digger CT is operating under, wouldn't it be much quicker and easier for him to visit Harrisons of Edinburgh's website and jot down the number of the fabric from the Lesser #306 collection that appeals most to him?

I neglected the timing issue as I won't see Patrick until April 3. Nevertheless, I find it really hard to judge fabrics by Harrison's website. One of the things I've done with Patrick is place an order during his visit but tell him I'll give a final choice on the fabric a week or so later. Digger could try that while waiting for swatches to arrive.
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