Show us your Chan - Page 29

So after many months of waiting (three, to be exact) since my July NY appointment, I received the suit I ordered from WW Chan. To recap, this was the second suit that I have commissioned from Chan. For the first one, I basically walked in off the street, made the fabric selection myself, had three fittings, and picked up the suit, all during a two week trip in Hong Kong. It was a charcoal suit, and I was pretty happy with it, fitting better than any suit that I have had prior to it, although, there were some things about it (too much shoulder padding, pants too short and too tight, and the fabric) that I wasn't entirely happy with.

With my second order, I had done some additional research on this forum (and this thread in particular) on fit and fabric selection, and went in to my fitting with renewed confidence. The suit that I received back wildly exceeded my expectations. The fit of the suit, this time, is perfect. More than that though, the fabric is spectacular. I clearly had no business making a fabric selection on my own the first time around. I want to thank emptym, in particular, for his willingness to answer my questions a number of months ago. Without his advice on fit and fabric selection, my second suit would not have been nearly as good.

This second suit is so much better than my first, that I am basically viewing the first one as a mulligan, and I'm going to start over from here, so I had a few questions that I was hoping the forum would be able to help me with. I went with a Smith's Finmeresco navy suit. I'd like to commission two pairs of trousers that would go well with the navy jacket. Does anyone have any fabric suggestions for grey or brown wool trousers that might compliment the Finmeresco well?

Also, I'm interested having a tweed jacket commissioned, for winter wear. For authenticity's sake, my preference would be to select a Harris Tweed fabric, if they offer it, but if the forum has any suggestions, I would be happy to hear it. Again, thanks to everyone on this thread for all of your valuable advice.

Congrats! If you like the spongy feel of Harris Tweed, I'd also recommend you check out Breanish. For more sturdy tweeds, W. Bill is a good way to go. Just ask Patrick for the books and have fun!

As for Harris tweeds, I would just counsel against using the Porter & Harding Harris tweeds unless they have been much improved. I got a jacket from Chan made from one of these Harris tweeds three years ago, and it is just a mass of pilling and fraying. I don't think Patrick takes that book on tour anymore. In the more recent past, Chan has had the John G. Hardy collection of Harris tweeds, and some of these looked pretty appealing although I can't comment on their durability.

Personally, I would prefer something from the Porter & Harding Hartwist collection to any and all Harris tweeds.

Chicagobred, care to share a few pics of your Finmeresco suit? Thanks.

Has anyone commissioned a midnight suit with a mohair blend? Any fabric recs that is reasonably priced?

If you want Mohair, Dormeiul Tonik is a good book. They have a beautiful rich dark blue (but lighter than navy) 90%mohair-10% wool.

This is Ethandesu's but I have one too.

Chicagobred, glad the second suit turned out so well. Fwiw, for pants,I'd get tan and light gray Minnis fresco, 2-ply. For the jacket, Harris is great or W. Bill make great tweed IMO, but my experience isn't as broad as some here.

Try looking at the Drapers Mohair. i find them to be the most luxurious mohair I have come across.

Beautiful but pricey fabric.

I'm hoping not to go over $2K for a 3 piece (or at least not much more than that) in a midnight mohair blend...

I got mine via NSM at 150 euro/meter. Not sure what Chan charges.

Got measured at Chan's Houston visit yesterday - fixing the vent flare on my next commission.

Ordered a navy blazer in Minnis fresco, I think like 9oz, and a pair of mid grey trousers in H&S Crispaire. I also ordered two shirts in Thomas Mason - the price was really good on shirts I felt. My local tailor in Columbus charged more than double for the same cloth. Delivery date is March... So the wait begins.

I also ordered a few shirts during their last visit and thought the prices for the Thomas Mason fabric were good ($168 as I recall). Also ordered a navy suit in Harrison's Cru Classe and a couple of gabardine trousers.

So I picked up a midnight fabric from a Smith & Co. (Woollen) book. I believe it was 70% wool, 30% mohair blend. It was a nice, soft fabric but had kind of an open weave. Obviously not fresco, but I was a bit surprised. It was hard to tell from a swatch to what extent the mohair provides the sheen so many people say it gives, particularly if the weave is more open (maybe reflects light in different ways)? Is this typical with mohair blends and really a more formal type of fabric?

I almost ordered a suit in the lightweight Smiths fresco. Need a lightweight, dark gray suit as part of a wedding party in Indonesia. Down to the Smiths or 9-10 oz Minnis. Smiths is more refined but a little too light in hue and a bit more expensive. Minnis 0513 is a good shade and has some heathering reminiscent of sharkskin. I like that in theory but am not sure if it'd turn out well.

Anyone ever ordered the Minnis 0513?