Show us your Chan - Page 26

That was not my joke. No homo, though.

I neve get these comments; is this meant to be serious?

Nice looking jacket, VG. Not too short and slim, Chan is making great stuff for you. Better pictures are certainly welcome.

So I ended up asking Chan to see if they could get a swatch of a roll they did have access to, and send it to me, which they kindly did.

Here's the swatch on top of the jacket, which they made in May.



I see the colors are different, but was hoping not enough to be apparent in wear.

But they think the difference is too great, so I'll trust their recommendation.

So much for my plans for the blazer suit as the start of a new, small but flexible, tailored wardrobe.

On the question of converting a jacket into a suit with a subsequent order of trousers, I did this with my Harrison's Frontier blue blazer and ordered the trousers about six months after I got the jacket to convert it into a "blazer suit." (The jacket buttons were smoked MOP, by the way.) The trousers were a perfect match as far as I could tell. I guess the practice is sort of a crapshoot, but at least it paid off for me.

You may have just gotten lucky, and they still had access to the same fabric roll (seems they do keep track of that in the order history)?

Try turning the sample piece to run in the other direction. Some cloths are meant to be cut in one direction and the weave will reflect light differently. Cloth will look darker in one direction of the warp than the other. Might make a difference, might not.

As you probably know, it primarily comes down to the bolt of fabric. If it's the same one it won't be a problem. If it's a new one it can be difficult to add a new item due to color variance. Popular items like Minnis Fresco 0520 I'm sure sell out of each bolt fairly quickly. Others can take a while. When I visited W. Bill in London last Summer I saw a few fabrics where I had purchased them between 8 - 18 months prior. It was the same bolt as you could see my order to WW Chan around the correct date written on their attached order tag.

I wanted to replace a pair of pants from a suit of Minnis 520. I emailed Minnis and they sent a cutting from current stock. It seems a pretty good match, though I'll want to look at it in some different types of light. There's a lot of luck involved, and I would certainly never assume that fabric purchased even a few months later would be a match.

Thanks Chris.

Do you mean rotating it 90 degrees, or turning it over?

I tried both, and do think there's a slight difference, but am not sure (?) whether that difference is significant enough to call it a match.

Here's a few images, in daylight shade, with my hand as reference, using the exact same exposure, and no post-processing (e.g., the only difference should be the side of the swatch you're looking at, and its orientation).






My totally non-expert sense is that the fabric from the swatch is very slightly warmer than the fabric from the jacket, and that one side may be very slightly lighter than the other.

Am I seeing that right?

Regardless: bad idea to risk getting the pants?

I suspect yes, but just want another opinion.

They should have marked the face of the cloth so you are comparing the side that will show to what you see. Turn the sample 180 degrees not 90.
The suit is cut in one direction meaning all the pattern pieces have the top facing one end of the cloth and the bottom of each pattern piece facing the other end of the cloth. You need to cut the trouser in the same direction as the jacket is cut.

To compare this sample to the jacket you need to know which side is the face of the cloth and which direction the grain line is running. If the sample is not running in the same direction as the jacket you could see a significant color difference even if the cloth is from the same piece.

How would you describe the house styling/preferences of Chan?