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Show us your Chan - Page 25

post #361 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

Either fabric would be great as a business suit, unless you're FNB. If you do want it as a suit, there are a couple advantages to getting it made that way off the bat: it's a bit cheaper to order a suit than a coat and jacket separately and sometimes fabric rolls vary in color so it's ideal to cut a suit from the same roll and even the same area of a roll.

"Same area of the roll"??

So I ordered a finmeresco jacket in March with much the same idea: don't want to fork out for the full suit now, and I can just order the matching pants later.

I met with Patrick the other day and explained my brilliant idea, and he pointed out what emptym says above (though he thought I'd be fine if they still have access to the same roll; checking on that now).

Upshot: if I had to do it again, I'd have gotten the finmeresco jacket + pants at the same time
post #362 of 707
I feel compelled to chime in on this as well...I ordered a navy jacket in H&S Crispaire and subsequently ordered what I assumed would be matching pants but they came from a different fabric lot and didn't even come close to matching. Tough learning experience but I should have known better.
post #363 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by sm31 View Post

"Same area of the roll"??
There's some chance that the color may vary even within the same roll or bolt of fabric. But it's certainly less likely to vary than between two bolts/rolls. Another disadvantage to ordering pants after a jacket is that uneven wear or exposure to sunlight might change the tones a bit. But even if you bought a the coat and pants at the same time, they'll wear differently. So I wouldn't worry too much about it. Do try to clean them together though. Typically pants wear faster than coats and sometimes men clean the pants before the jacket. One advantage of a blazer suit (imho) is that the jacket is more likely to get worn as much as the pants, perhaps more.

Below are some pants from Chan that I posted in the Ambrosi thread. Figured they'd be helpful here too.

HS Crispaire:
700700700

Minnis fresco (slightly more tapered cut, but strangely they look trimmer overall):
661661661

Both are part of blazer suit-type things.
post #364 of 707
emptym - WWC do a great job with your trousers.

I find darker trousers always look markedly trimmer.

Which Minnis Fresco are the darker pair? 2 ply or 3 ply?
post #365 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by Young Pro View Post

Great looking suit, love the shape/proportion of the lapels and the open quarters on the jacket.


Is this a typical Chan shoulder? How would you describe it in terms of padding? I ask becase I am considering a Chan suit in the fall. I prefer a lightly-padded shoulder with a roped sleevehead (helps correct my sloping shoulders). Do you think this would be achievable with Chan?


Thanks for sharing your experiences, I'll of course email Patrick as well to get his view.

I own no Chan but have seen much of it "in person" on fellow SF members. None of them have
shoulder lines like that. They are far more "natural' or "Neapolitan"
post #366 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

There's some chance that the color may vary even within the same roll or bolt of fabric. But it's certainly less likely to vary than between two bolts/rolls. Another disadvantage to ordering pants after a jacket is that uneven wear or exposure to sunlight might change the tones a bit. But even if you bought a the coat and pants at the same time, they'll wear differently. So I wouldn't worry too much about it. Do try to clean them together though. Typically pants wear faster than coats and sometimes men clean the pants before the jacket. One advantage of a blazer suit (imho) is that the jacket is more likely to get worn as much as the pants, perhaps more.
Below are some pants from Chan that I posted in the Ambrosi thread. Figured they'd be helpful here too.
HS Crispaire:
700700700
Minnis fresco (slightly more tapered cut, but strangely they look trimmer overall):
661661661
Both are part of blazer suit-type things.

Excellent fit! Those are like single pleat RTW slacks that Huntsman sells (sold) out of their shop on the "Row"
and which Barneys carried for a while.
Edited by comrade - 7/24/12 at 10:49am
post #367 of 707
^Thanks R. Interesting about Huntsman. Didn't know they preferred a single pleat as well as a single button.
Quote:
Originally Posted by quar View Post

emptym - WWC do a great job with your trousers.
I find darker trousers always look markedly trimmer.
Which Minnis Fresco are the darker pair? 2 ply or 3 ply?
Thanks. 2 ply, dark brown.
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

I own no Chan but have seen much of it "in person" on fellow SF members. None of them have
shoulder lines like that. They are far more "natural' or "Neapolitan"
I think you've seen an unusual sampling for the most part. Chan's tradition is more British than Italian, and more strong shouldered than natural. Parker's and my stuff (influenced by Parker's) are fairly uncommon to Chan.
post #368 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

with patch pockets I'd go 3 roll 2
with flaps I'd go 2

Why the distinction between flap and patch as a deciding point?
post #369 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

^Thanks R. Interesting about Huntsman. Didn't know they preferred a single pleat as well as a single button.
Thanks. 2 ply, dark brown.
I think you've seen an unusual sampling for the most part. Chan's tradition is more British than Italian, and more strong shouldered than natural. Parker's and my stuff (influenced by Parker's) are fairly uncommon to Chan.

+1. I hope to see Patrick in November. I think I will be reverting to their "house style," which is reflected in the first couple of suits Chan made for me. My tastes have changed, and I'm a bit over the whole soft-shoulder thing.
post #370 of 707
Jan - I just saw Chan in DC this morning. The price of Harrison's Frontier was $1539, and last fall it was $1520 or so. I would expect a minor increase in price. I did not see Oyster book but wasn't really looking to be honest.

I ordered a navy blazer made up from Smith's Finmeresco for $1235.
post #371 of 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by teddieriley View Post

+1. I hope to see Patrick in November. I think I will be reverting to their "house style," which is reflected in the first couple of suits Chan made for me. My tastes have changed, and I'm a bit over the whole soft-shoulder thing.

Interesting. My last coat from Patrick has the most natural shoulder line of any I've gotten from him, and I'm not sure I don't prefer the look of my previous few that had just a bit more padding at the sleevehead. But the new jacket is by far the most comfortable one I have. It's like wearing an old sweater. I think Patrick has learned to adjust his fitting to those of us who have spent too much time in the weight room
post #372 of 707
My second Chan order, received last week (hence the wrinkles). Both are 3-roll-2.5. I think I'm quite pleased overall.

Holland & Sherry sharkskin suit:





Hunt & Winterbotham POW sport coat:


post #373 of 707
Patrick did an excellent job there. Fantastic.
post #374 of 707
Wow. Looks great. You have very large feet. Are they proportional? fing02[1].gif
post #375 of 707
Haha, I do have large feet (US 13/14). But I'm 6'3, so I think they're proportionate. Makes shoe shopping a pain though...next stop, bespoke shoes!
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