Show us your Chan - Page 24

Thanks B. I haven't noticed any difference in heat. There's less lining w/ this construction, but what's there is wool. Although this wool's weave is open. Probably depends on the fabric's weight and weave.

That self-facing looks great. Did you specifically ask for the new, softer canvas? I have a pending order with them for fitting in August, and wonder if it is too late to ask for the new softer canvas?

^Thanks. I just asked for a lightweight canvas and this is what they gave me. I didn't know that they had a new one until Mark (yfyf) said they did. He thought they probably used it in my jacket. You could always ask.

Resistance... fading... not long now...

They are really busy I doubted they would have cut your jacket if your fitting is in August, just send them a email and ask for the change. I too have a fitting next week and hopefully they have use the lighter canvas on my jacket.

Yes, I just did send them an email in fact. I asked about changing to the quarter self-faced lining and attached emptym's photograph to the email. I also asked about the lightest chest canvas currently available. I will respond back to this thread with the reply. I had originally specified a half-lining for this suit, which I'm having made up in a grey Minnis Fresco.

What are you being fitted for next week?

I am having a navy suit made in W Bill linen. Details will be two patch pockets and half lining. I am not sure I will be getting the new lighter canvas, probably too late to change now.

Sounds the business. Nice one.

Do post some photographs if you can.

I'm seeing Chan during their tour in the US this summer. I've already had a suit made by them that I am very happy with, and I plan to commission a navy blazer this time around. I have a few questions for the forum, if anyone is able to offer some advice! I apologize if my questions seem a bit vague.

I'm interested in a versatile navy blazer. Should I be getting hopsack or worsted wool? What brands should I be looking at? Is Harrison's a good choice? I'm willing to spend money on quality fabric, but my budget is limited to just a jacket this time, although I may want to commission pants in the same fabric from chan at a later date, if that's possible.

Since I wear an overcoat in the winter, ideally, this will be a spring-summer-fall jacket. Would it be wise to have the jacket made unlined, or quarter-lined, or something like this? Also, with that in mind, what wool fabric weight would be ideal for a jacket with this type of seasonality in mind?

On my prior chan suit, the shoulders seem to be well padded. I'm happy, my charcoal suit was my conservative suit, but this navy blazer is meant to be more relaxed. Would it be rash to ask for no padding at all, or 'just a little bit', and allow the tailors to do what they think is best?

Thank you for your help!

Depending on if you wanted it more for spring/fall or more for summer, I'd get Smith's Finmeresco or Minnis Fresco, respectively, and I'd go quarter lined either way. Hopsack would be great too imho, but I'm not sure what they carry in that. If you like the suit's padding but want to try something a little more relaxed, I'd definitely tell Patrick and let him decide what's best given your build.

Thank you for the fast response! Quarter lined it is. I guess I'm going more for something spring - fall, so i suppose that Smith's Finmeresco would be best. If I were to get pants made, would a full suit in either of those fabrics look out of place in a business setting? Also, how much consideration should I give to the weight of the cloth?

Thanks for your response, and if anyone else has any further insights, please let me know!

Either fabric would be great as a business suit, unless you're FNB. If you do want it as a suit, there are a couple advantages to getting it made that way off the bat: it's a bit cheaper to order a suit than a coat and jacket separately and sometimes fabric rolls vary in color so it's ideal to cut a suit from the same roll and even the same area of a roll.

The finmeresco is 11.5 oz, I think, which is a solid weight for a suit. It's 4ply, which makes it very wrinkle-resistant and durable. But the open weave makes it wear cooler than plain weaves or twills of similar weight. So you'd need to consider weave as well as weight.

By "quarter lined" Chan means something different from what apropos meant above. It will have more lining than my coat, also above. I think there are pictures of quarter lined Chan coats on SF, but Patrick can show you what they are. They're really about 40% lined. I don't know if you saw my blazersuit thread, but it may be helpful to you.

As long as we have a current Chan thread running, I thought I'd ask any Chan regulars who have seen Patrick so far on this tour how the prices are holding. I am particularly interested in a suit from Harrison's Oyster this go-round. A 2-piece was $1,700 on the November tour. Anybody know what the price is on this tour? I hope any increases have been minor: $1,700 or $1,800 is pretty steep for me.

While in NY, I ordered a Brown Donegal sport coat with patch pockets. Patrick suggested two button but there was also discussion about 3 roll 2 and how I could turn up the collar and make it outerwear as well if I chose. Don't know about that but do wonder if anyone has thoughts about 2 or 3/2 in this style of jacket. If it matters, I'm 5'8" or so and 152 pounds. I've got a week or so to decide. They thought 2 button would give me a better line.

with patch pockets I'd go 3 roll 2

with flaps I'd go 2