Originally Posted by johanm
Thanks, I see what you mean. I'm apprehensive about asking Chan about the shoulder extension though - Some of my earlier projects had wider shoulders (albeit with light padding) and they couldn't figure out how to eliminate the divots even after 2 orders and me sending jackets back for alterations. Seems like they only conceptually understand close-fitting shoulders. I may have to experiment with another tailor to get the optimum shoulder-hip ratio.
In response to teddieriley's earlier point about unpadded shoulders: they definitely look a little frumpy and sweater-like out of the box. After a night on a good hanger, they straighten out to the point where they're indistinguishable from a lightly padded shoulder except that they're far more comfortable and move better when the arms are in motion.
As for the divots, it took five commissions for Patrick to understand that the sleeves he was cutting for me were too narrow in the upper arm, which was the primary cause of the divots (my massively buff arms would stretch the sleeve horizontally, causing the divots). He had to widen and recut sleeves for a suit becuase literally after 3 attempts at fixing it, the divots remained (I had seen him on a few visits, and each time he would simply pin up material above the divot thinking that was the solution). That suit was basically useless for over a year and a half after three trips back to HK and me waiting for Chan to show up locally, but is now fitting great.
Your second suit actually looks pretty good. I still think you can benefit from a stronger shoulder line, but that's just me. Gld's gives some pretty sound advice.