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Show us your Chan - Page 17

post #241 of 687
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

Some stuff recently arrived from Chan. Robopose for maximum crique. I took pics from all angles, since I'll probably post these and others in the upcoming thread by Despos and a tailor: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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Buttoned above and unbuttoned below:
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W. Bill donegal herringbone for the coat. HS Crispaire for the pants.
Tie by Panta, shirt by Danny's of HK, boots are Alfred Sargent Millers

emptym, does your right shoulder just naturally project forward a little bit?
post #242 of 687
Thanks everyone. Some responses to questions and comments:
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinveritas View Post

The fit looks very good. Are the shoulders slightly roped? Can you give us close up of the shoulders? Thanks
I'll try. They're not roped. Shirt-sleeve, I believe w/ no padding. People use an Italian term for this, but I can't remember the term. I'll be out of town for a few days but will try to take a pic of the shoulders then. Until then, there are pics of two other of my coats' shoulders up several pages back if you want to take a look.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

Could we get a close up of the donegal?
This, I can do now, since I took a pic of the fabric:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apropos View Post

Looks great - now try swapping out the tie for a dark olive green knit! biggrin.gif
That is a great idea. I need one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctp120 View Post

Coat looks very nice in front and back pics. In the side pics it looks like front balance may be a bit short. Nice fabric and overall look on the coat. The pants look like they fit really well, though I think I might prefer a hair more tapering, but that's a stylistic choice rather than an observation about fit.

Also, I like the tie, but would probably pick something different with this outfit. Certainly not bad, but i think you could do better (I read in WAYWN that the combo was more happenstance than choice anyways, so not sure why I'm even saying this).

EDIT: I think I'd also prefer to see some daylight between the sides and the sleeves (i.e., a bit more shaping--though not tightness--in transition from chest to waist would give the coat better lines. Your physique should easily accommodate that.) It also may have to do with the way you've positioned your arms in the robopose, or with the fullness of the sleeves (something I generally like).
I think you may be right about the balance. Hadn't thought of that. I know it's considered proper for the front to be a little longer, but for some reason I've always preferred the hem to be basically straight along the horizon and possibly even rounding upwards in the front. Maybe I'll change my mind to the proper norm someday. You're right that I just threw these things on w/o thinking much about how they went together, as I mentioned in WAYWRN. I got the tie at the beginning of the summer, when I pretty much stop wearing ties. I put the shirt on because I was about to visit a new mto shirt company in SF (Tailor Stitch, run by a great group of guys) and wanted to see if this collar went well w/ the coat since I thought I might use it as a sample for TS guys. The boots I wore to see if they fit well under the pant leg. Which leads me to another point of yours, that the pants could be a bit more tapered. I agree w/ you, but since I commute by motorcycle, I need the pants to be able to fit over boots. I would like a more hourglass shape, like you have in your coats, but I'm not sure my body would accommodate that. By measurements, you might think so, I'm a 39/33/37. But I'm pretty narrow from a front/rear view (narrowish chest, etc).
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Nice jacket, emptym. I would personally ask Chan to make the shoulders a bit extended. When the jacket is buttoned, vents don't fall straight so I assume that is a balance issue (maybe other issue) as someone mentioned above.
Thanks. Part of me would like more extended shoulders. But I'm not sure that can be done w/o adding shoulder padding. I think the vent thing is partly because I have what Will Fields called a "prominent seat." But I would love a tailor or despos's comments, which hopefully will come soon in their new thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post

emptym, does your right shoulder just naturally project forward a little bit?
Maybe it does. It does drop a bit.
post #243 of 687
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

This, I can do now, since I took a pic of the fabric:
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That is a great idea. I need one.


Cheers. Re: the olive green knit, RLPL or Bamford makes some great ones.
post #244 of 687
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

Thanks. Part of me would like more extended shoulders. But I'm not sure that can be done w/o adding shoulder padding. I think the vent thing is partly because I have what Will Fields called a "prominent seat." But I would love a tailor or despos's comments, which hopefully will come soon in their new thread.

Did you ask Chan if they can do it without adding shoulder pads? I think it is possible.
post #245 of 687

Quote:

Originally Posted by emptym View Post
I think you may be right about the balance. Hadn't thought of that. I know it's considered proper for the front to be a little longer, but for some reason I've always preferred the hem to be basically straight along the horizon and possibly even rounding upwards in the front. Maybe I'll change my mind to the proper norm someday.
I think the vent thing is partly because I have what Will Fields called a "prominent seat." But I would love a tailor or despos's comments, which hopefully will come soon in their new thread.

 

Looks good, m. From what I can tell, Chan's default is a shorter front balance and I don't think it's necessarily wrong, it's just their style. Maybe one of the resident tailors can confirm, but I think some tailors do a longer front, some even and some shorter.  The shorter front, especially paired with a strong shoulder seems to project an "at attention" military-inspired effect. I do think it's a little at odds with the softer, undpadded, shirt-sleeve shoulder. 

 

Yeah, the thing I noticed in the photo is the vents are opening. I am also of prominent seat, so I just request more room around the waist and now my vents are fine. There's probably a more technical way to fix this than that.

post #246 of 687
Empty,
Thanks for the thorough reply. My balance comment was less about the length of the front of the coat (as has been explained on here before, simply adding/subtracting length doesn't solve balance issues). Part of it has to do with with the length of the strap and where all features on the coat sit in relation to your torso. In a coat with short front balance, regardless of the relative lengths of front and back, the coat will look as if someone is grabbing it at the gorge and dragging it up towards the shoulders. It also often makes the quarters look overly closed. This is commonly seen with RTW on men who have erect posture (those with stooped posture have the opposite problem, of course). Your coat is not by any means a bad offender, but the balance does look slightly off to me. Not sure if I'm making any sense . . .
post #247 of 687
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post


Cheers. Re: the olive green knit, RLPL or Bamford makes some great ones.
Thanks for the rec, T.
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

Did you ask Chan if they can do it without adding shoulder pads? I think it is possible.
I think you're right, but it might droop. Iammatt once showed me that the canvas on his coats is extended from the chest, past the shoulder seam and over the back of the coat, a little like a shoulder pad. That allows more extension. I meant to ask Patrick about this, but forgot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

Quote:

 

Looks good, m. From what I can tell, Chan's default is a shorter front balance and I don't think it's necessarily wrong, it's just their style. Maybe one of the resident tailors can confirm, but I think some tailors do a longer front, some even and some shorter.  The shorter front, especially paired with a strong shoulder seems to project an "at attention" military-inspired effect. I do think it's a little at odds with the softer, undpadded, shirt-sleeve shoulder. 

 

Yeah, the thing I noticed in the photo is the vents are opening. I am also of prominent seat, so I just request more room around the waist and now my vents are fine. There's probably a more technical way to fix this than that.

Very interesting. Thanks. I wonder if they could subtract some from the waist in the front, through the darts, and add some to the back or sides to keep some shape, but relax the seat area.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctp120 View Post

Empty,
Thanks for the thorough reply. My balance comment was less about the length of the front of the coat (as has been explained on here before, simply adding/subtracting length doesn't solve balance issues). Part of it has to do with with the length of the strap and where all features on the coat sit in relation to your torso. In a coat with short front balance, regardless of the relative lengths of front and back, the coat will look as if someone is grabbing it at the gorge and dragging it up towards the shoulders. It also often makes the quarters look overly closed. This is
commonly seen with RTW on men who have erect posture (those with stooped posture have the opposite problem, of course). Your coat is not by any means a bad offender, but the balance does look slightly off to me. Not sure if I'm making any sense . . .
Now that you say that, I remember it. I'll take a look.

Horns, now that I look at my shoulders, I think you're right that the right one sits a little more forward than the left.
post #248 of 687
emptym, just to let you know, it's very, very subtle!
post #249 of 687
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinveritas View Post

The fit looks very good. Are the shoulders slightly roped? Can you give us close up of the shoulders? Thanks
Finally got around to this. Sorry for the delay:

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post #250 of 687
Received my first Chan order on Friday: 8.5-oz H&S navy herringbone 3-roll-2.5 sport coat and medium grey 10 oz Minnis wool/cashmere (1%) trousers. I ordered in March and had the basted fitting in July. Nothing has been pressed yet. My two observations: 1) I tried to walk around and have my natural posture for the back photo, but there is still some buckling, so that might have to be a future adjustment. 2) The pants might be a bit long. Thoughts?

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Edited by HEPennypacker - 10/2/11 at 1:13pm
post #251 of 687
Chan certainly gets it right the first time.
Congratulations!
post #252 of 687
Quote:
Originally Posted by HEPennypacker View Post

Received my first Chan order on Friday

Looks really great for a first order. At first glance it seemed that the jacket was very short, but it just seems like you have long arms like yfyf. Before doing any alterations I'd try and wear it for the season and see how it breaks in. Good luck and enjoy!
post #253 of 687
Quote:
Originally Posted by HEPennypacker View Post

Received my first Chan order on Friday:

the trousers seem tu pull up in a "strange" way. probably afraid of the dm's...

listen to david. break it in before you start micromanaging. looks very good for a first.
post #254 of 687
Looks good, wear for a few weeks before trying minor changes. May well 'settle'.
post #255 of 687
Thanks, gents. I will take your advice and "break it in" for a while--wearing it today, in fact! I'm very pleased overall, especially for my first commission, and am already planning my next Chan purchase.
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