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Show us your Chan

WhereNext

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I will be moving to the Shanghai area in a few months and will be trying out WW Chan when I settle in. I have noted that they have two different shops in Shanghai: are there any objective or subjective opinions here on using one of the shops over the other?
Thanks for any thoughts folks experienced with WW Chan might have!
 

feijaocozido

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I will be moving to the Shanghai area in a few months and will be trying out WW Chan when I settle in. I have noted that they have two different shops in Shanghai: are there any objective or subjective opinions here on using one of the shops over the other?
Thanks for any thoughts folks experienced with WW Chan might have!
I only have experience in the Maoming South Road shop in Shanghai. The other shop is inside a hotel from what I was told. I would also be interested to know of any differences between the two.

I've had them make two jackets for me so far. One last fall in a gun club check wool, and one this spring in a light navy hopsack, both with Caccioppoli cloth, both 3-roll-2 with patch pockets. They included 2 fittings, one with the basted jacket. All jackets are full canvas, no other options. They can adjust the thickness of the canvas if you want something lighter.

I have very broad shoulders and for the first jacket expressed my concerns to them and asked for a soft, natural shoulder. At the second fitting, it looked like the shoulders were hanging over too much and I tried to convey this to the sifu(?) but his English is nonexistent, and the English-speaking clerk wasn't there that time, so when I came in for the final product there was light padding and an extended shoulder which made me look too overpowering. There was also bunching of the fabric at the neck causing the bubble by the nape, something that happens often due to the square shoulders. Honestly, I was pretty disappointed at this point, and started looking for another tailor...but then I brought the jacket back and explained my issues, and within a week they removed the padding and reduced the extended shoulders. When I picked it up, I showed them the excess fabric by the neck after the jacket had a minute to settle, and they took it upstairs and had it fixed in less than 10 minutes. No charge for any of the extra altercations. The jacket ultimately was very comfortable and fit great, just took a while to get there. This gave me enough confidence to make the second order.

On the second order (minimal lined hopsack), they had a better understanding of what I was looking for. I have a Balloon jacket from Ring Jacket that I wanted to replace with this commission, so I brought that in along with some other jackets to show what I was looking for: a light, breathable hopsack jacket to wear in the spring and summer. They went with no padding in the shoulders, and their lightest canvas. Same as last time, 2 fittings. The soft and natural shoulders were much improved this time, but I found when wearing the jacket for more than 10 minutes, I had considerable pain on my shoulders/back. Also, the fabric bunching up by the neck was there this time too. Disappointed again, I brought the jacket back in, and they said "what is it this time?" (I get the feeling that they see me as a nitpicky customer) and I explained the problem. The sifu made the jacket look great when I wasn't moving, but once I started moving normally, the sleeves were too tight causing the jacket sleeve to catch on my shirt sleeve and pulled when I bent at the elbows causing discomfort. There also wasn't enough fabric along my back for me to comfortably move without pulling down around the back/neck. After another week, they fixed everything and it's much more comfortable now.

I'm kind of torn. I'm happy with the ultimate end product, but it took a while to get there. I think if you are in Shanghai and can go back multiple times, they will eventually get it to fit perfectly. The price is also reasonable considering what you are getting for a bespoke piece. A bit of give and take.

I'll take some pictures later.
 

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