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slim fit vs. "athletic" fit shirts

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Did a search, saw similar threads but not this exact one.

I know it's all semantics and there are 800 words use interchangeably in describing shirt fit - slim, modern, trim, regular, classic etc.

BUT...

I notice a lot of RTW shirts describe their shirts as "slimmer through the waist, chest and shoulders for a more modern look" or whatever...

BUT (again)...

I don't want a shirt that is slimmer through the chest and shoulders. I'm broad backed, broad shouldered, and broad chested. Three parts pecs and deltoids, one part man boobs...but a small waist.

So...

Which off the rack shirts are the most athletic fit? Which have the greatest drop in size between the chest/shoulders and waist? What is the best option (aside from tailoring) for somebody with a 10-12 inch drop?
post #2 of 12
In terms of shirting, I just compensate the tighter chest/shoulder dimensions with a slightly longer arm measurement. If I really want a well-fitting shirt, I'll go MTM as the cost isn't too bad these days. Brandwise, I stick with BB BF and Uniqlo for the majority of my shirting needs.
post #3 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by identity-x View Post
Which off the rack shirts are the most athletic fit? Which have the greatest drop in size between the chest/shoulders and waist? What is the best option (aside from tailoring) for somebody with a 10-12 inch drop?
Your best bet is going to be to buy an OTR "slim fit" or "standard fit" shirt that fits you in the neck and chest and then get it darted in the back by a tailor, or go MTM/bespoke. I don't think you'll be satisfied with the results offered by any OTR shirt without alterations. I only have an 8" drop and ended up going bespoke to be satisfied with something that wasn't blousy in the waist.
post #4 of 12
I don't think I've ever come across a button up that didn't tent for me. Find a good tailor.
post #5 of 12
I agree that you are better off getting something MTM - you will never get it perfect buying OTR when you have an "athletic" build.

Try nialma.com or something similar - not expensive and good turnaround times.

Good luck.
post #6 of 12
I have a 10 inch drop. Versace, "Trend Fit" is a perfect shirt. However, the ones that I have are not really dress shirts, but more of a sport shirt. I think I am going to have one of them copied to make up some dress shirts. Also, Z Zegna is good, but not as good as the Versace in terms of fit. Finally, regular old cheapie DKNY slim fit are very good.
post #7 of 12
wow, you have 10-12 inch drop? I'd be happy to have your problem. I doubt getting an ORT shirt darted can fit you well. I mean, can it take in that much? It is a great problem to have.
post #8 of 12
I have a 9 inch drop, and I have yet to find a well-made dress shirt that fits me decently off the rack. I can't imagine how much more difficult the situation would be if my drop were 10 inches or more.

Go with MTM, provided you can't or won't spring for bespoke. There are some very good MTM options out there that are priced comparably to mid-to-high-end OTR shirts. MyTailor.com (Joe Hemrajani), for instance, has always done well by me. Don't go with his cheapest stuff (in the $40 to $50 range), though. I'd recommend the $80 to $120 options for a really nice dress shirt capable of being a workhorse in your stable.
post #9 of 12
i dont know why it's one or the other. different clothes for different occassions i guess if i was forced to choose i'll choose whatever i feel most comfortable in, which would be the athletic fit
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wj2009 View Post
wow, you have 10-12 inch drop? I'd be happy to have your problem.

I doubt getting an ORT shirt darted can fit you well. I mean, can it take in that much?

It is a great problem to have.

well...it's definitely more that I have an "athletic frame" and less that I'm athletic.

part of it is that I went from weighing 265lbs to 200lbs (at 6ft even) and there is bulk around my chest and under my arms that has been uber difficult to shed. I have a bit of flab in my middle too, but definitely V-shaped.

might have to go the MTM route. hmmm...new thread...

thanks all
post #11 of 12
The problem is shirts are sold by neck size. They take your neck size and assume the rest of your measurements. Also with shirts short of spandex you won't want skin tight measurements in the waist area.

The Italian shirts aimed at the younger market are fairly slim. At least for me. I'm approaching a 12 inch drop but my shirt size is only 40 15.75" If your neck size is bigger they are going to assume you are bigger overall and not slim.
post #12 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by factorial View Post
Your best bet is going to be to buy an OTR "slim fit" or "standard fit" shirt that fits you in the neck and chest and then get it darted in the back by a tailor, or go MTM/bespoke.
That works for me though might not work for the OP as I don't have an athletic body type at all, just an 11 inch drop. For dress shirts I go with inexpensive MTM (I don't see a point to getting nice shirts when they'll probably be too small in the neck next year), for sport shirts I get the sides taken in and darts added.
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