Bad Pics of a Solito Suit

The good camera is elsewhere, and I had to take these myself. So triple whammy: lousy equipment, lousy setting, lousy photographer. But people were asking, so ...

I can vouch that it looks really nice in person. Fantastic spalla camicia treatment. I should have brought a camera!

This draft (pic stolen from jeffreyd's blog), drawn by a student at a Neapolitan cutting school, is very close to how this coat is cut. Maybe identical. Kids, there really is such a thing as a Neapolitan suit. Either that, or this is the drafting system that Solito learned. I don't have any coats from NY or London that are cut like this.

Other than the darts it looks just like your other suits. Not that that is a bad thing. Better pics please.

1. What fabric?

2. I know the son measured you out. Did he also cut the jacket, or did the father cut it?


- B

The cloth is Woodhouse 11 (?) ounce worsted. "T" dot nailhead (hard to explain), blue-gray (more gray than blue). Acquired from Tip Top so it must be terrible.



I actually don't know which one cut it. I assume the father did, but for all I know Luigi did.

It is leaner than my other suits, has a narrower point to point, and a trimmer skirt. There are other differences which are harder to explain. The cut is sort of halfway between angular and hourglass, more like this: ) (. The curves built into all the cut edges are subtle and very attractive. The quarters are more dramatically open. The shape of the sleeveheads is more like an asymetrical egg, and less evenly rounded a la Savile Row. The lapel notches are pure Naples. Oh, and the breast pocket is beautiful.

wow you are very tall

I appreciate that the suit looks good in the wild

I like. I like. Lapels are sweet. And the all-the-way-down darts.

Originally Posted by Teger

Click to expand...

wow you are very tall

I appreciate that the suit looks good in the wild

I told him to check for grundleholes.

Just in case.


- B

Originally Posted by Teger

Click to expand...

I appreciate that the suit looks good in the wild

Just one communist's opinion.

Great suit. A. The lapels are nearly perfect in my mind.

manton: I hope you get around to taking good pics, camera permitting. I am sad that I missed my appointment with Foo's good friends.

Thank you for taking the time to take and post these pictures. It is a very nice suit as others have mentioned. How much of this cut and fit did you direct, and how much was their default style? I assume that Ambrosi made the pants. Is that a safe assumption? Did you opt for the button fly, or zipper? Was there any default/standard items that you asked them to modify?

Again, thanks for the pictures and information.

Aaron

Very, very impressive. I have seen Solito's work before (cut and measured by the elder -- Gennaro, I think?), and this suit is definitely in line with his high standards. I tend to not like the extended front darts, but somehow here they seem to be doing something interesting for the silhouette (maybe they make the skirt look slimmer somehow, which is good). Congratulations: un gran bell'abito.

Those pictures are probably the best I have in me. Next time, dwarf, just come to lunch!!!

I was aware going in that Solito has no rigid house style, and I have seen pictures of various things that all looked different. Maurizio Marinella is a Solito client and used to come to Bergdorf a few times a year when they Marinella had a bespoke tie trunk show. (Maybe he still does, but I have not seen him there in at least three years.)

I told Luigi that I liked what Maurizio wears very much and that he should make my coat like that. I also stressed that I wanted the coat to be soft and comfortable. Beyond that, I just said SB 3 button, roll 2, notch, side vents. Also, I specified that I wanted regular pockets, no ticket. He asked if I wanted it unlined, and I said no, not for this one.

I had one fitting, at which Luigi thought the suit was too roomy. Apparently they really made it big to be sure that I would be comfortable enough, on the assumption that making a big coat smaller is easier than making a small coat bigger.

At the fitting, the shoulders were fine, the collar was hugging my neck, the length was good, and the sleeve pitch was correct (sleeves were the correct length, as well). So he pinned the coat to give it more shape and that was it. He finished the coat and delivered it as you see it.

Salvatore did indeed make the trousers, no fitting. He has my pattern down, he no longer does fittings for me. I always get the zip fly, but beyond that, nothing special that he does not ordinarily do.