Originally Posted by brescd01
Before I end up as a trophy over someone's fireplace, let me say this:
1) The Jantzens still fit better. Bugelli fiddled when he should not have.
2) You must either be deformed or very fussy. I suspect the latter. The first thing you have to do is stop spending money and go back to Jantzen or Land's End and figure out what a perfect-fitting shirt's measurements are. This may be difficult for the shirtmakers but it is not difficult for you, if you are patient. Once you have figured out what a perfect-fitting shirt's measurements are and you can show this to a shirtmaker, I do not think things would be as difficult.
3) Alternatively, you could have the AK go through this process for you with one shirt. I am sure there are lots of little things the AK would criticize in my Jantzen shirts, for instance, but I don't care because they are comfortable for me and look fine. However, I have been curious recently about collars and AK's is famous, and I am sure Jantzen is a non-starter in this regard. I would always suggest Jantzen as a great deal, but I doubt they are the best in any specific category. To be fair, I have not tried all of Jantzen's collar options and I would like to.
Jantzen doesn't work for me for a couple of reasons. 1) I never did get a shirt from them and it wasn't cause I didn' try. They somehow lost 2 of my orders.
2) When I'm picking shirt fabrics I like to match them to my jackets exactly. (please don't misinterpret that to think that I do the monochromatic thing)
3) How a fabric feels is very important to me. A $50 dollar shirt isn't a bargain for me if it doesn't feel as nice as I would like it to. Everyone has different ideas about what constitutes a "good" fabric. Thomas Mason SilverLine is the benchmark I use and I refuse to drop below it. What I'm really interested in, however, is GoldLine and above. There is almost nothing above 120s if you get your shirts from Jantzen.
Finally, I'm neither terribly deformed, nor excessivelly fussy. The shirt company messed-up, several times, and not tiny mistakes either. Not only that, they didn't learn from their mistakes. The third shirt I received repeated mistakes present in the first shirt that were not in the second. I won't bore the forum with my problems in detail (I already put Kabbaz to sleep), but they had little to do with my fussiness. Part of the problem was promising bespoke results through a MTM process, but in actual fact, I didn't even get MTM results. What I got were sleeves 2" too long, and extra fullness just about everywhere that there was fabric. They sent me a second "trial" shirt that was just a re-cut first shirt, armholes and all. No shanks, sloppy sewing, and on and on.
If any Montrealers read this and wonder who made my shirts, feel free to ask in PM. In the meantime I've used Kabbaz's many posts to come-up with some good questions for prospective makers, one of whom I've sent an email to and the other which I intend to call shortly. Hopefully I'll end-up with a competent maker.