Originally Posted by longskate88
Two guys have said if they remove the bolt, it won't go back in, since the pan and bolt are seized together.
Do you think two moderately handy young guys could pull off the labor required to replace the pan and gasket? My B-I-L has some basic tools and a big Nascar jack, sounds like we just unscrew the pan and it drops away, then we put on a new gasket and pan, voila?
Hmmm. These guys who tell you it's seized...how well do you trust them? Do you change your own oil or have it done? And...when's the last time you changed your oil? For as often as oil gets changed, and the fact that there's oil on the other side of the bolt, I am really reluctant to believe it's seized and won't come out. My thought - if it's a professional shop telling you this, I'd be suspicious that they're trying to sell you more work than you really need. Times are tough, even for mechanics, and it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a mechanic pad their time with useless work.
If you trust them, or if you're tried it yourself with no luck at all...here's what I'd do
1. I'd search for a used oil pan and new gasket and see what they run. I'd probably put one on hold at a junkyard somewhere as a back-up. Also: if you don't already have one, I'd get a Haynes manual.
2. Break off that bolt. Your best case scenario is that the pan holds the threads and the bolt strips. Again, since there's oil on the other side, a full seize is IMHO unlikely, though I could always be wrong. There are a few outcomes from here, though.
If the bolt threads hold but the pan strips out, I'd get a drill bit, tap, and bolt to clean out the hole and then tap new threads - provided the hole hasn't gotten too big. If it's too big: new pan.
If the bold head breaks off but the shank remains in the hole, then I'd seal off any cracks with JBWeld and see if I can tap a new hole closeby. Alternately you can try to drill out the bolt and re-tap, but that may be a lot of work (and you run the risk of leaving the rest of the bolt in your oilpan). The other caveat from here is that the area where the original threads are is probably thicker than the rest of the pan. You run the risk of drilling into a thin spot, which is unusuable and ruins the pan. Hence, the back-up. And be sure to have a back-up car at the ready, because you'll be sure to need something after you've started.
As for replacing it outright, I see no reason why you couldn't. Ratchet drive, long extenders, and 12mm sockets (or 10mm?) should do the trick. But - drain it first, and even then it will be messy as hell. And whatever you do - use jackstands to hold the car up
. If that floorjack gives way, or rolls, or whatever, you're hosed in a very bad way. Your hospital bills - if you survive - will make your car service bills seem cheap.