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Suit topology discussion

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
I found it interesting that most people voted for the three-button as the most "stylish". There are a few reasons for that, one of which being that George W. Bush never wears them. However, that's not what I've been seeing. The most "new" looking suits I've seen recently have been 2-buttons, albeit 2-buttons with a much higher button stance than the stuff Dubya wears. A lot of the suits from lines such as Paul Smith, Hermes, and Brioni are in that topology, often but not always in combination with peaked lapels. Indeed, my favourite R2W suit this season is Hermes' high-stance two button with besom pockets (including a ticket pocket) Peace, JG PS: Did anyone else want to tuck President Carter's tie into his jacket for his appearance on Larry King tonight? But then again, when you've helped as many people as he has, I suppose how you dress is utterly immaterial.
post #2 of 19
The thing is, we were asked for the most popular, stylish and fashionable, which are three different things. The two- and three-button models would be most popular and/or fashionable; I'm not sure which is which. I voted for the one-button as the most stylish, but my tastes aren't exactly mainstream.
post #3 of 19
I concurred with pstoller on the one button. I feel the two button is the most traditional, while the three button is the most conservative/mainstream design. I bought a really nice Valentino- slim, black, one button suit a few months ago. It's feels extremely fashionable when I wear it in a room full of guys in two/three button suits.
post #4 of 19
Designing good questions is an art (or is it a science?). The question in question was not particularly well-formed, and because of this, it is difficult to interpret the results of the poll. As pstoller pointed out, popularity, stylishness, and fashionableness are rather disparate criteria. In the eyes of some, they may even have inverse correlations. For example, the ubiquity of a certain style or brand (and thus its popularity), may work against it being most stylish (if uniqueness is considered a point of style) or most fashionable (it's so five-minutes-ago/Banana-Republic/sheeple). Examples are abundant. Look at the backlash in forums such as this one against Diesel jeans and Gucci. Without additional information, I find it difficult to draw any conclusions re. the poll in question, except for the trivial one that most people voted for 3-button suits. I personally prefer either 3-button suits or (extremely) high- gorge two button suits because I find that the longer torso flatters my figure more than any other styles.
post #5 of 19
I was also a bit surprised to see the 3 button as voted the most stylish. I really don't like 3 button except for the due bottone a tre girata type or strappata, which is a speciality of the Neapolitans such as Kiton and Attolini. Those are quite elegant indeed. It was a tossup between the 6X2 double breasted and the one button for me. I chose the 6X2 only because the one buttons are so hard to find anymore. And also the most stylish 6X2 for me would also have a ticket pocket, something which I almost never come across.
post #6 of 19
Well, I can honestly say I am astonished my poll has been up and running for such a long period of time. I left three months and still it keeps going, and going, and going...Anyway, I am back, if it is not blatantly obvious. Oh, and I made that poll when I was 38 hours sleep deprived so please excuse the wording. Perhaps it is time I start a new, more aptly worded poll?
post #7 of 19
Quote:
 And also the most stylish 6X2 for me would also have a ticket pocket, something which I almost never come across.
I know many of you hate Gucci, but Gucci does have a lot of those 6 x 2 's w/ ticket pockets (heck I even got a double breaster cashmere overcoat w/ a ticket pocket from them). I also have to say that I have never had a problem w/ Gucci suits except the buttons say Gucci all over them and if you lose a few they may be annoying to replace. You can also get Gucci suits on Yoox, Bluefly, and E-bay for $500 - 900 instead of $2000- which is a good deal for any suit that isn't glued together. Yes, there are better suits. and No, they are not worth the boutique prices BUT Through discount stores they are a good purchase, IMO.
post #8 of 19
Quote:
 I chose the 6X2 only because the one buttons are so hard to find anymore.  
Yes, that is the same reason I picked the 2 button instead of the 1 button. I still don't own a 1 button suit and everytime I see something like this- http://www.bluefly.com/pages....2237396 - it's always 1 size too small and I'm not sure if I want to risk it w/ my 34 inch waist. If anyone gets a lead on a 40R single button suit w/ side vents, message me.
post #9 of 19
Quote:
 I really don't like 3 button except for the due bottone a tre girata type or strappata, which is a speciality of the Neapolitans such as Kiton and Attolini.  
What are these different types, I am not familiar with them.
post #10 of 19
The stirata (sorry for the typo) a 3 style has the third button (the highest) hidden so that it allows more of the tie to show (my pet peeve with 3 button suits). It also allows for a more graceful roll of the lapels.
post #11 of 19
Quote:
The stirata (sorry for the typo) a 3 style has the third button (the highest) hidden so that it allows more of the tie to show (my pet peeve with 3 button suits).  It also allows for a more graceful roll of the lapels.
Wow, sounds really cool. Do you have any pictures of this style of suit.
post #12 of 19
Isn't that normally called "American sack"? A three button jacket where the roll line of the lapel goes down to the centre button. I like it, but maybe I have seen too movies from the sixties with Jimmy Stewart in the lead.
post #13 of 19
I was under the impression that this was a feature of the "updated American" look.
post #14 of 19
I think this is referred to as a "roll lapel." The lapel begins to start folding below the third button; while the third button is never buttoned. This is definatly a feature of a better suit. I've seen it on Oxxford, Kiton, Purple Lable, and Zegna suits. American "sack" suit would not have this feature. American sack suits are pretty self explanitory; they are made for americans (cause we're fatter) usually by american makers (Abboud, Brooks Brothers, Jos A. Bank, Boss, ect...). They never have double vents, usually center vents (which i abhor), or no vent. The "sack" part comes from the way they fit, like a sack. They have no shape (to fit fat americans), almost the opposite of a Neopolitain cut (slim around the waist). They are really gross suits, I've even seen some Oxxford suits guilty of this. As a result I only wear Neopolitain suits, cause I'm skinny as f*ck. I tried buying a blazer the other day in Bloomingdale's, and the salesmen actually told me to shop elsewhere and look for european brands. This was due to Bloomingdale's only carrying american sack suits (except for Canali, but still no double vents). I ended up buying a Prada sportcoat; complete with double vents and slim cut.
post #15 of 19
Guys: Here is an example of that type of lapel. suit with roll lapel
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