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Perfect or imperfect fits - Page 2

post #16 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy
I agree that not all silhouettes work for all people, but the point of my original post was that a bit of Wabi-sabi, to use a gratuitous foreign language phrase, creates a more interesting effect than perfection, which I find visually sterile. In the Sartorialist's blog, for example, I generally much prefer the picture of models on break in "civvies", the "Old Man Style" photos, or the streetwear photos, to the perfectly coiffed, impeccably dressed guys (usually outfitted either in ridiculously expensive casualwear or in suits) he sometimes photographs.

Almost as a "˜well dressed causal' version of "˜I look like I just rolled out of bed wearing whatever I bought at the mall, but actually I spent a good hour this morning' ?

Jon.
post #17 of 30
I think to confuse baggy or conversly, too-tight fits with 'not fitting' isn't quite right. They fit exactly as the clothing designer intended them to, or as you choose to spin it. You can always recognize something that DOESN'T fit when you see it: because the person wearing it either has no choice or simply are not aware.
I also don't like saying the clothes appear "authentic" as opposed to "designer." Aren't ALL clothes 'designed?' If authentic is the opposite of designer than it would appear the only authentic clothes are the ones we sew ourselves, ie, none, and even then we are the designer, so a bespoke suit is more 'designed' than anything else!
post #18 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augusto86
I think to confuse baggy or conversly, too-tight fits with 'not fitting' isn't quite right. They fit exactly as the clothing designer intended them to, or as you choose to spin it. You can always recognize something that DOESN'T fit when you see it: because the person wearing it either has no choice or simply are not aware.
I also don't like saying the clothes appear "authentic" as opposed to "designer." Aren't ALL clothes 'designed?' If authentic is the opposite of designer than it would appear the only authentic clothes are the ones we sew ourselves, ie, none, and even then we are the designer, so a bespoke suit is more 'designed' than anything else!

I should have used more precise vocabulary. What my point was was that what looks "best" is not necessarily what is most flattering to someone's physique. Many Margiela pieces and pieces from the inaugural Y-3 collection are cases in point. Margiela pieces are often meant to look a somewhat askew, and Y-3 pieces were meant to fit oversized, to emulate the postwar American donated clothing in Japan (the average Japanese being much smaller than the average American). I have seen Y-3 pieces from that collection worn so that they fit perfectly at the shoulders and the chest, but taking away that bit of designed imperfection took a little away from the look of the piece.

I also used the word "authentic" tentatively, because I knew that it would get this sort of reaction. I think that my poor use of the words "designer" and "authentic" are explained above.
post #19 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy
I should have used more precise vocabulary. What my point was was that what looks "best" is not necessarily what is most flattering to someone's physique. Many Margiela pieces and pieces from the inaugural Y-3 collection are cases in point. Margiela pieces are often meant to look a somewhat askew, and Y-3 pieces were meant to fit oversized, to emulate the postwar American donated clothing in Japan (the average Japanese being much smaller than the average American). I have seen Y-3 pieces from that collection worn so that they fit perfectly at the shoulders and the chest, but taking away that bit of designed imperfection took a little away from the look of the piece.

I also used the word "authentic" tentatively, because I knew that it would get this sort of reaction. I think that my poor use of the words "designer" and "authentic" are explained above.

OMG, now my pair of Adidas Y-3's and how they fit and work better with longer pants makes perfect sense!

Jon.
post #20 of 30
its all about oversized tshirts and tight jeans
post #21 of 30
i guess it depends on how 'baggy' or 'oversized' (proportion wise) you mean. i think this works really well:


(from the sartorialist)

obviously the jacket fits very well, but the jeans are quite slim. i also think slim top somewhat baggy jeans looks pretty good sometimes (mostly on tall people).
post #22 of 30
Deviate a bit from the topic. But to all the skinny guys out there, please, consider wearing slightly oversize clothing sometimes. It looks better on you. Please stop thinking that you are the Dior's model as I think sometimes you need particular facial features to pull off those looks.
post #23 of 30
Honestly, speaking as one of those skinny guys, I find oversized clothing just comically accentuates that skinniness.
post #24 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arethusa
Honestly, speaking as one of those skinny guys, I find oversized clothing just comically accentuates that skinniness.

I find this to be especially true with t-shirts (or really any shirt, for that matter), which when worn oversized can make your arms and chest look exceptionally skinny, even if you have some muscle to you.

On the other hand, I do agree that slightly large jeans can look good depending on the cut/style of the jean.
post #25 of 30
"looking good philosophy 101" I agree, that imperfections can enhance the look. I've always found it really attractive when a girl has a beautiful face with some subtle imperfection about it (slightly crooked teeth, or one eyelid that has three wrinkles in it while the other has two). I think the philosophy is kind of the same here. Most good designer clothing is tailored to achieve a certain look by its fit. For example, Engineered Garments clothing is tailored to look like workwear. The shoulders are square, the fit is boxy and the sleeves are short. As LA Guy pointed out, Yohji and Margiela clothes are sometimes also cut kind of loose to achieve their respective look - and I find that tidbit about the Y-3's inspiration fascinating. Even Dior clothing is not a perfect fit in the terms of body accentuating. Slimane's clothing is columnar, rigid and straight-fitting, while very slim. I think Tom Ford, Dolce & Gabbana, DSquared2 are examples of designers who try to make a "perfect" (a very subjective word in terms of clothing) fit and accentuate the body. BTW, I agree with Arethusa - baggy t-shirts NEVER look good on skinny people. This is what skinny guys look like in baggy shirts and shorts:
post #26 of 30
Very interesting discussion.

To me, what makes up "style" is to a large degree the imitation of certain iconic silhouettes. What makes the biggest psychological impression on the viewer is an association with learned, animal-level generalizations. These can be so subtle that with a different shoulder on a jacket or width here or there in a garment, an entirely different archetype is recalled.

I had more to say, but I lost it. Maybe later.
post #27 of 30
Seemingly, the perpetual problem "analysts" like ourselves are going to encounter is the "general public", which in itself is already problematic blanket terminology, I know. Basically, though there are plenty of people who are aware of the designer's philosophy and aim of the collection, I would say that the vast majority of customers don't know, and don't really care. Yohji for example, is VERY rarely worn correctly. Partly because many people don't know, but mainly because those people who aren't "in the know" simply don't agree, or find visually appealing, his design aesthetic. But us analysts who do follow/appreciate the principle behind it take a skewed view because we don't see it "as it is", we see it encompassing more than just a look. ie. we're special Just my opinion, probably stating the obvious. Edit- J, would like to see where you're going with that, interesting take.
post #28 of 30
LA Guy, I remember you saying that you picked up those Corpus Fine's from Barneys with a 34 waist. Did you end up keeping them? I got them too and the waist definately requires me to wear a belt but I still like how they fit. A little baggy through the thighs but the rest of the legs seem to be a bit skinnier than my Rescues. So I guess I am a fan of the imperfect fit, even though I have never tried on a true "skinny" jean.
post #29 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dill
LA Guy, I remember you saying that you picked up those Corpus Fine's from Barneys with a 34 waist. Did you end up keeping them? I got them too and the waist definately requires me to wear a belt but I still like how they fit. A little baggy through the thighs but the rest of the legs seem to be a bit skinnier than my Rescues. So I guess I am a fan of the imperfect fit, even though I have never tried on a true "skinny" jean.

Yeah, I kept mine, and they definitely require a belt right now. They must have changed up the sizing a little. Either that, or the different treatments can really shrink the jeans, because my Morphys had a heat treatment of some sort and were super tight to begin with (I'm talking Superfutures tight,) while the Fines are a true one rinse. I am wondering how much shrinkage there is going to be after I wash these in warm after some wear. I actually like the extra room in the butt and thighs tapering off to a skinnier leg, though.
post #30 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy
Yeah, I kept mine, and they definitely require a belt right now. They must have changed up the sizing a little. Either that, or the different treatments can really shrink the jeans, because my Morphys had a heat treatment of some sort and were super tight to begin with (I'm talking Superfutures tight,) while the Fines are a true one rinse. I am wondering how much shrinkage there is going to be after I wash these in warm after some wear. I actually like the extra room in the butt and thighs tapering off to a skinnier leg, though.

I have not washed mine yet either, so I also wonder how much they will shrink.
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