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Sugar Cane Sizing

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I am thinking of buying a couple of pairs of Sugar Cane jeans. What sizing guidelines should I use for their one-wash jeans. I wear a 33 or 34 normally, but sometimes sizes can be a little wonky. Any input about these jeans is greatly appreciated.
post #2 of 13
There's a great deal of sizing info on the History Preservation site of course. I just ordered a pair of Okinawas after a long discussion with the owner about sizing. I was initially going to size down to a 32 (my natural waist is a 33), but he convinced me to go with a 33. That's for raw denim. Based on what he told me, they will probably arrive at about 33.5" and shrink an inch from there -- I am then assuming some stretching, but not too much due to the weight of the denim. Of course, if they are way off they take returns.

Still waiting on someone from SF to report on the premium hand dyed high end 'Canes. Those things look insane.
post #3 of 13
I agree you should go for your natural waist size in Sugarcanes.

My experience has been that they are cut significantly fuller in the seat and thighs than other repros, but sizing down in the waist will mostly just make it hard to breathe and move naturally.

For information about the higher-end Hawaiis, Edo Ai and Okinawas, I recommend ringring's posts on superfuture, see following links. You may also notice some posts from other familiar folks

Okinawa vs. Hawaii
General Sugarcanes thread
Thread where I got inspired to buy and report on the Hawaiis *I don't wear the cuffs that big anymore, and my tee shirt was tucked in for the sake of showing the jeans, so don't. Oh, and yes those are Fluevogs. And I still wear them.
post #4 of 13
Well my Okinawas came in the mail today from History Preservation (holy crap, amazing shipping performance on their part, with the jeans arriving the day after I completed my order).

The following observations:

- The rise in the front is not that high.
- The rise in the back is REALLY high. Basically, they are a high-backed trouser. Overall, the effect is reminiscent of what Rag & Bone was doing with some of its wool trousers for the fall/winter season.
- The Okinawas fit pretty true to size. I am a 33 waist and these are just the tiniest bit loose.
- There is a ton of room in the ass and thighs. My thighs are not small. They can't fit into New Standards in my waist size, and my Rescues are tight around my thighs. With the Okinawas there is a ton of room. Nothing in fit like modern 501s.
- The legendary sugar cane smell is overrated. It is barely noticeable.
- The denim is ridiculously slubby, but has less vertical striation than I expected.
- The green selvage line isn't especially dramatic. Not that there is anything wrong with that.
- They appear long enough for me as long as I don't hot wash them, which is good.

I don't think I can go down a size in these without the waist being way too small (especially after what I think will be net 1/2" shrinkage after shrinking and then stretching).

I think my next move is probably doing a cold soak. I am worried reading some of the other comments that these things will bleed dye eveywhere if I don't.
post #5 of 13
I have a pair of Hawaiis, and even after a cold soak (6 hr) they bled everywhere! My hands would be blue by the end of the day from incidental contact. This was sort of gross, because the dye tends to rest under your fingernails. I eventually gave in after a month or so of wear, and did a warm wash. Now I get very little smurfing, if at all. If you do a cold wash (assuming these are like the Hawaii), try not to wear light-colored shoes, or your favorites for that matter. I had a pair of blue Adidas Athens that I wore with them for this reason, and the laces are the only noticable dye transfer. Also, don't go on any dates wearing them. But if necessary, wear gloves and bring a seat liner.
post #6 of 13
Originally Posted by montecristo#4
I think my next move is probably doing a cold soak. I am worried reading some of the other comments that these things will bleed dye eveywhere if I don't.

If they are raw, I definitely recommend the soak first. Note that indigo will still rub off after the soak, at least it did on my Hawaiis. -edit, Gaius beat me to this observation

If your Okinawas are the one-wash, I wouldn't bother with the soak.

The Hawaiis had a much stronger scent when new than the Okinawas, FWIW.
post #7 of 13
Tangerine, what was your experience with the waist? Overall on the raw denim, did it stretch or did it shrink from its original size?
post #8 of 13
Originally Posted by montecristo#4
Tangerine, what was your experience with the waist? Overall on the raw denim, did it stretch or did it shrink from its original size?

Soaking them shrank them to tag size. They have stretched out a little from wearing but not as much as Nudies or APCs. So, there was a net shrinkage from raw.
post #9 of 13
I have the suagar cane sc40501a jeans, one wash, cinch back, single back pocket, synthetic/natural indigo blend jeans. The waist actually fits pretty true to size. I orderd a size 31 which were tight at first but stretched out to a nice fit after some wear. These jeans have a noticeable sweet sorghum smell, but its really not too strong. A faint smell for sure. Being a one-wash, my jeans don't bleed at all. I'm interested in a pair of natural indigo jeans next, I'm eyeing the hawaiis, but not at history preservation prices!!!
post #10 of 13
Just touching these things trying them on and my hands are blue.

I think I am going to do a warm wash tomorrow, inside out, with Woolite Black. Then stretch the legs when wet to preserve length, hang dry, and see where that leaves me.
post #11 of 13
I think you're right to do a warm wash. A cold soak will shrink them, but won't do anything about the excess dye. After a cold soak and warm wash, my Canes lost very little color, except in the stress areas (speak of, they developed much faster than my other dry denim).
post #12 of 13
I did a warm wash last night. Two, actually, since the jeans were still smurfing all over me after the first wash.

The Canes shrunk significantly through the waist, seat, and thighs. I expect they will stretch a bit, but they are now really a great fit.

I pretty much maintained original length by vigorous stretching through the drying process. See other post on stretching:

These things are fucking sweet. I still have Rag & Bone envy, but I am rapidly getting over it.
post #13 of 13
I wouldn't mind picking up some higher end canes. I have two pairs of 47s. I just love them.
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