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help me with my shoe plan. 5-6k to spend. - Page 4

post #46 of 61
Thread Starter 
I can make exceptions now and then, can't I? I wouldn't want all of my shoes to look exactly the same. I've seen some norvegese & reverse-welted shoes that I really liked. I've been turned-on by the occasional Branchini, although nothing screams out to me in their current collection.
post #47 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by GQgeek
I can make exceptions now and then, can't I? I wouldn't want all of my shoes to look exactly the same. I've seen some norvegese & reverse-welted shoes that I really liked. I've been turned-on by the occasional Branchini, although nothing screams out to me in their current collection.

That makes sense. I know that Edward Green is a sacrec cow on this forum, and they make nice enough shoes, but you don't want a closet full of twenty of the same shoe. There really is not that much difference in my mind between a captoe with a regular throat and an adelaide captoe, or a two eyelet and three eyelet blucher. Variety is good, and Edward Green is hardly the ne plus ultra of shoes. They are good, but not so good as to want all of your shoes to be by them (or JL or CJ etc.)

That being said, I am not sure that Branchini is the right Italian shoe to start out with. It is a shoe that is more of a finish to a shoe wardrobe. Mantellassi makes the most accessible Norvegese stylistically. You might want to check with Lance at Virtual Clothes Horse to see what he has.
post #48 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt
That makes sense. I know that Edward Green is a sacrec cow on this forum, and they make nice enough shoes, but you don't want a closet full of twenty of the same shoe. There really is not that much difference in my mind between a captoe with a regular throat and an adelaide captoe, or a two eyelet and three eyelet blucher. Variety is good, and Edward Green is hardly the ne plus ultra of shoes. They are good, but not so good as to want all of your shoes to be by them (or JL or CJ etc.)

That being said, I am not sure that Branchini is the right Italian shoe to start out with. It is a shoe that is more of a finish to a shoe wardrobe. Mantellassi makes the most accessible Norvegese stylistically. You might want to check with Lance at Virtual Clothes Horse to see what he has.

I put Edward Greens next to Corthay's work when I was last in Paris, at Old England. The choice of which to go for, for me, me was pretty easy to make.
post #49 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by GQgeek
#5: Also considering the Berluti Alessandro, but have read Berluti aren't of welted construction so that's a bit of a turn-off. Is this true?
Berluti is usually Blake welted (you can ask for Goodyear welted on some models). Even Olga does not sell glued soles for 800 euros.

As for your question on the interest of going to Paris, there are interesting smaller companies in Paris (besides JM Weston or JL Paris). You would have pretty good value for money with a RTW from Altan, 300 euros for the basic line, 400 for the handgrade, personalized patina on request, or a RTW from Marc Guyot at 550 euros. There is also a pretty good MTM market, you can get MTM or bespoke from Dimitri Gomez at the C&J shop in Paris, Aubercy also has RTW and MTM lines in addition to their bespoke....
post #50 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod
I've seen the 888. The toe shape is close but no cigar. Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that you can't get that kind of chiseled toe without going bespoke. Personally I want the derbys shown in pics 134 and 135.

Just need to save up that $4k or so.
You can get a chiselled toe in RTW, but most tend to be Italian. It has to do with pre ordering toe puffs in that correct shape. And also, it depends on the RTW market that the shoe is being sold in.... I have been told that most people who buy RTW in the UK are not so enamoured of the chisel toe that we all love .
post #51 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiger02
Hmm...
I don't think the Vass captures the 'predatory' idea that GQGeek thought of..... May I suggest this as being more 'predatory'?
post #52 of 61
For $5-6 large you could get 250 pairs of Payless shoes according to Howard on AAAC.
post #53 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Étienne
As for your question on the interest of going to Paris, there are interesting smaller companies in Paris (besides JM Weston or JL Paris). You would have pretty good value for money with a RTW from Altan, 300 euros for the basic line, 400 for the handgrade, personalized patina on request, or a RTW from Marc Guyot at 550 euros. There is also a pretty good MTM market, you can get MTM or bespoke from Dimitri Gomez at the C&J shop in Paris, Aubercy also has RTW and MTM lines in addition to their bespoke....

also: Albaladejo
post #54 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage
I don't think the Vass captures the 'predatory' idea that GQGeek thought of..... May I suggest this as being more 'predatory'?
*** image of one VERY beautiful norvogèse wholecut ***
Quote:
Originally Posted by T4phage
I have been told that most people who buy RTW in the UK are not so enamoured of the chisel toe that we all love .
No, no, no, no, NO!

I absolutely resist the idea that those wholecuts you posted are in any way 'predatory'. Why, that would mean I'd have to completely revise the way I look at shoes. I have come far, no thanks to this and other fora, but that is still a bridge too far.

Also, I would without hesitation place myself outside of that group ('we all'???) that love chisel toes, and count myself amongst those who buy UK RTW shoes.

But what lovely wholecuts they are...
Is this what they call the dark side?

MtB

Btw T4, back to an old avatar?
post #55 of 61
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJMan
For $5-6 large you could get 250 pairs of Payless shoes according to Howard on AAAC.

It's settled then! Why hadn't anyone thought of that sooner?
post #56 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJMan
For $5-6 large you could get 250 pairs of Payless shoes according to Howard on AAAC.
Of course, Howard is what one would call a Trad. Alden is their sin. As to other shoes, how about Roberto Ugolini?
post #57 of 61
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LabelKing
Of course, Howard is what one would call a Trad.

Alden is their sin.

As to other shoes, how about Roberto Ugolini?

I've never seen a pair. I've decided to wait for the semi-annual sales in NYC. I've got a wedding to go to during that time anyway so I'll fly down after that's done and do some shoe shopping. If I don't get what I want, there's another Green trunk show in the fall and my plans for italy (with a side-trip to budapest) are becoming more concrete.
post #58 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by GQgeek
I've never seen a pair.

Here you go, Roberto Ugolini. Look how similar its shoes are to Vass U-last and that's how U-last got it's name.
post #59 of 61
Thread Starter 
Oooh, in florence too. They only do MTM? How much per pair?
post #60 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by GQgeek
Wow, we're not even talking euros, but 500 USD for shoes in calf? What was the wait time on your shoes? And I guess you don't need two trips because it sounds like MTM so there isn't a try-on before the final shoe is made.

What sort of questions did you answer in discussing the shoes that would be made? Do you chose from pre-existing lasts? Do you get a bevelled waist for 500 bucks?

When is the best (cheapest) time to visit budapest?

Thanks for the info GT, been wondering about Vass for a while now.

It's not a question of cheap to go to Budapest. Fall would be as good as spring.

A friend of mine bought a pair of RTW Vass. He is completely satisfied.
Regarding to their own pride and tradition. Hungarian shoemakers drop the sample shoe for an additional fitting. But I would recommend to pick up the shoes yourself. For many reasons.

Depending how much time you can spend in Europe - with a three hour roadtrip or rail you can visit Vienna. There are also some world famous manufacturer as

Rudolf Scheer
Materna
Balint
Maftei
Elfriede Riedel
Saint Crispins

and at least Bartkiewicz. He is only working on appointement. I can find out his number if you are interested.
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